Broken exhaust tip hanger
#16
Drifting
Andrew: Yep! Both of mine are broken off at the weld on the tailpipe just inboard of the chrome tailpipe clamp.
DB: Yep! As I said mine is a 2005 C4S 996 (built July 2004). I have been unable to find it on any 996 parts diagram. You might be right, it could be a cross-over between the 996-997. You are also right that it might not be needed as many(?) cars do not have it at all. My guess is Porsche put it on there for a reason! Who am I to argue with a German Engineer!
"Beat that Horse..."!
DB: Yep! As I said mine is a 2005 C4S 996 (built July 2004). I have been unable to find it on any 996 parts diagram. You might be right, it could be a cross-over between the 996-997. You are also right that it might not be needed as many(?) cars do not have it at all. My guess is Porsche put it on there for a reason! Who am I to argue with a German Engineer!
"Beat that Horse..."!
#17
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The same German engineers that replaced a solid dual row bearing with a weak single row bearing. So, my guess is that they did put it there for a reason, but if it breaks (apparently in many cases) and causes strange rattling noises, then rethink it, fix it and move on. No one and no design is absolutely flawless...over time. My opinion is it can be eliminated without further concern, since other designs don't include it. FWIW
#19
I had this happen to both sides on my C4S. The tips can slide off of that section with the bracket, so no need to purchase the entire assembly. Here are the PNs
right: 996-111-351-02
left: 996-111-352-02
When I bought them in 2013 they were about $150 shipped per side from Sunset
right: 996-111-351-02
left: 996-111-352-02
When I bought them in 2013 they were about $150 shipped per side from Sunset
#20
Racer
#21
Rennlist Member
Bumping this thread as i recently had the same thing happen -- bracket that is welded to the exhaust tip per the above pix broke off. I plan to have my buddy bring his welder over to put right, but have a question. I know NOTHING about welding (and my buddy is fairly new to it) -- does this part need to be removed from the car prior to welding? Is there a potential to fry the electronics if i weld w/ it on the car? A lot of the exhaust bolts on my car are rusty and may prove to make removal difficult, was hoping i could just remove the rear bumper and have at it. Thoughts?
#22
Nordschleife Master
Welding on the car it fine. If u want to be overly careful disco the battery. Pulling the bumper should give u access. I recently had to cut off a few clamps to get my aftermarket tips right. They r not cheap so if they r tight leave them.
welding tip. The cleaner the metal the better the weld so grind or sand the weld area.
welding tip. The cleaner the metal the better the weld so grind or sand the weld area.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thanks for this. I figured such was the case given muffler shops do it all the time, but also realize folks in that world are not often rocket scientists. Yep, plan to yank the rear bumper cover first and will make sure to start with a clean spot to weld. Cheers -J
#25
Rennlist Member