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Old 04-15-2017, 09:17 PM
  #46  
The Radium King
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Originally Posted by Schnell Gelb
Yes.And welcome to geekdom Mr. Radium!
In a normal engine there are plenty of drain holes to replenish oil in the sump.In this configuration we rely on those two English scavenge pumps. If they can't "keep up" as the Brits would say, the accumulating oil in the heads will cause oil smoke in the exhaust and maybe dangerously low oil level in the sump ?
Solution - a partial at least may be to have a deep sump and reduce revs when you see oil smoke ?
thanks. i get that the pooling is reducing the amount of oil in the sump, but from other threads on the issue, a deeper sump (ie, more oil) doesn't help - check the thread on the new boxster dry sump in development. so, if it is not a lack of oil, then i was thinking perhaps the bypass is the cuplrit - the pooled oil is fighting the oil pump and forcing it to bypass back to the sump. so, perhaps making the bypass activate at a higher pressure might help? or not; if this was soln then jake or LNE would have a soln on the market by now?
Old 04-15-2017, 09:24 PM
  #47  
Schnell Gelb
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Qumulus had a few recent posts on an aftermarket dry sump system his buddy was developing . I'll try to find and repost it. Basically his buddy had tested various deep sump systems and Accusump for Track and found them all wanting. After destroying several engines trying to develop a better system ,he found the answer. And all will be revealed bu Mr. Q. soon -I hope.
Here it is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...mp-system.html
Old 05-06-2017, 06:10 PM
  #48  
RodJ
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Oil pump drive shaft length - measured on my MY98 Boxster is 50mm.
Old 07-15-2017, 05:01 PM
  #49  
TonyTwoBags
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Originally Posted by rockhouse66
I read on Renntech that there is an upgraded oil pump piston and spring that is a useful upgrade to increase low RPM oil pressure. The piston is beveled to solve a sticking issue (?) and the spring is slightly longer.

Has anyone done this upgrade or have an opinion about it? Does it apply to all 996 models or do later ones already have either the newer spring or the piston?
bump with a few photos of the presumably original 2003 C2 parts vs. the updated 997 parts. I haven't installed the updated hex drive shaft yet, but it's sitting on my desk.

The bolt on mine was really cinched on there, but once loose it was easy to undo it. I just used a fat finger to plug it while I checked out the differences between the old & new. After a drive around town to get gas & drop off some old oil, the oil pressure was reading a bit over 1bar at idle. The swap only required a refill of around half a quart, not as bad as I expected.

17mm wrench did the trick, had to use my pinky and eventually a small scredriver without a bit on the end to get the piston to work past the rivest for the bolt.


Once out it was easy to plug it & compare & contrast. New spring a few mm longer than the old one. New piston clearly shows the bevel on the edge. All looking good according to prior advice.


new piston on top, old on bottom



old spring on top, new on bottom



new unit prepared for installation


As always, thanks to the contributors of the thread for making this low stress & easy to replicate!
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