white out

If you can jump to $40k for a turbo, do it. The powerplant transforms the car.

After driving back to back between an '84 coupe and '99 coupe, I went with the 99. This was before the bubble and while I wish I would have bought the '84 from a flip standpoint, the 996 was a better car to drive.

mrjonger

I just recently went through this process. The lowest rates I could find were with Chase (assuming you have good credit). When financing, think about your initial service costs - though yours looks like it's good to go. I was looking at RMS, IMSB, and water pump when I purchased mine. The clutch and flywheel were an unexpected delight. This is a where a good PPI will be key, you'll get an idea of the the service items and costs you're going to be incurring upfront - nothing is cheap on a Porsche! These items should also be negotiating items when purchasing the car. Speaking of which - if you look on Ebay, you can pull up the final price on prior sales. What everyone is asking for isn't necessarily what they're selling for. BringaTrailer.com also lists prior sales, but I hear cars on that site generally sell for a bit of a premium - could be because the cars are nicer or because of their bidding rules (your call).

Everyone here has more experience with a Porsche than I do. This was my first Porsche, so maybe you're in the same boat I am. If it is your first, it'll probably be more than enough regardless of the model. So just buy the one you want - and a C4S does look very sweet. For context, I have a C2 cab, so probably the slowest and worst handling of the bunch. But it's more than I need on the street by a fat margin. By the time I've gotten to 4K in 2nd gear, I'm usually 10+ car lengths in front of the nearest car. When hitting the hairpins, the car has more grip than my right foot is willing to ask for. BTW, this is the fastest car I've driven, but I'm not a stranger to speed - I have sportbikes and used to track them semi regularly.

One thing, the car is a lot rougher than what I imagined. My test drive route was pretty smooth - I suggest you drive it over varied road conditions to emulate real life. I don't mind so much because I'll take performance and function over comfort any day, but everyone has their preferences.

Good luck!

FRUNKenstein

^ A lot of good info and advice from mrjonger

Matt Cooke

Yall are super helpful. Thank you mrjonger too, I am in a similar spot that you were I think.

I am thinking a bit harder and not rushing it thanks to your guys advice. The black one I posted does seem like a lot. I saw this one that is also near by http://www.myhighlineauto.com/2004_P...256029291.veh# But I do not see anything in the ad about a clean Carfax. I am calling them tomorrow. Anyone seen this one before?

Cars n Coffee is this weekend and I'll talk to some folks there. Maybe I will get some ideas on prices ect.

imnotracerx

$36k is not bad but you could defiantly negotiate a reduction of few thousand on that price. As far as choosing the 4S over a 2S... I have an 08 4S and I love it. It's wide, it's fast, and 4wd is awesome for street use. But sorry... no burnouts! The new IMS will help you sleep better too. Looks like it has a few mods which might be a good thing. PPI is a must. If you're really set on this car have the oil changed and ask the tech to pull apart the filter. He'll know what to look for.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Matt Cooke

See what you guys are teaching me? This help is huge, thank you very much. I will contribute once I am able.

I am going to my time a little more. I saw this one near by also. But I dont see a Carfax on it..... hmm http://www.myhighlineauto.com/2004_P...256029291.veh#

white out

Also, since my post didn't touch on it. C4S is a great car and if you go that route you will be quite happy. But at that price point, the turbo is worth taking for a test drive.

alpine003

To think of it in a different way, if price is similiar between lower mileage C4S and higher mileage TT, you're buying the TT not really for more power but reliability and less risk. Once you start thinking this way, it might make more sense. Power is always nice but that's only one way to think about it.

Slakker

Until you blow a turbo....

porsche951

[QUOTE=Sue Esponte;13501632]There are a lot of people looking for $15K 911s who want to believe even the nicest 996es should be $20K cars. I still say, good luck with those $15K cars.


People are always looking for a bargain. 99 times out of 100 a $15k 911 isn't going to be a bargain. Unlike other makes of cars a Porsche 911 with a "couple" issues can get expensive in a hurry. Couldn't agree more, good luck indeed with those $15k cars.

TheMystro

Novice / first time 911 Porsche buyers fall into the "all should cost about the same" category. It's a rookie mistake simply because they haven't owned these type of cars enough to know the cost of ownership. "I bought my Porsche less than a Honda" means nothing simply because the Honda is and always will be $30k new car. Regardless what you pay for a beater 911, it's still was a $80k+ car with parts and servicing to match the price tag. The plus side is you have a car built to those standards and quality materials.

If you want a beater and roll the dice, then you get a price break but know it comes at a cost. If you want a low mileage concourse condition that looks and drivers brand new, your gonna pay up. It's always been that way with 911's. I don't care if it's a Turbo or base 911....... Options, miles, and condition are everything and prices will reflect this.

(This is coming from 28 years of owning many fine 911's as well as years of PCA concours competition)

[QUOTE=porsche951;13506970]

jaetee

Buying a sub-$15k 911 is a scary proposition, especially as a first timer. Cars in that price range typically have been traded in and/or gone to auction and were purchased on the even-cheaper side but without any service history. These are usually for sale by small used lot dealers or auction flippers and such. And one of the first things those guys do is get rid of all proof of previous ownership, including valuable service records.

As someone who just bought a sub-$15k 911, I can tell you I went into the experience with eyes wide open knowing it was going to be a $20k plus experience. I have spent the last six months researching the issues, after following prices for the last year or so...

Sometimes you're lucky and some service may show up on car fax. But, basically you don't know squat about how the car was maintained. So, once PPI is completed and you know you have a "NICE" example from the things you can easily evaluate (clean carfax, good paint/interior quality, suspension doesn't rattle, brakes/tires OK, oil is clean of metal shavings, etc) then the fun really begins. I went into my purchase with a $20k budget and a project management mindset. At minimum, a new IMSB, RMS, clutch (and in my case chain tensioners, plugs, 160 degree t-stat and water pump too). You could put AOS, pencil coils and other items on that list... Those with room and who are more handy than others can tackle some of those things themselves. In my situation, I am doing rear window regulators (mine's a cabrio) and there are also two torn panels on the drivers seat which I'm not sure If I will have them replaced by an upholsterer or by L-seat covers and try that job myself.

So, when it's all said and done I'll have basically turned my "score" into a $20k+ sorted car, but I feel I've also put myself in a good position to know the exact state of the primary failure components and made the car as relatively worry-free as possible from onset.

To me, that approach (when done patiently and thoroughly) is more rewarding (and fun) versus buying a higher priced used example from a premium seller like the dealer. You have then re-established the car's service history towards making it marketable as a sorted car and protecting your investment that way. And you might have even saved a few thou$and in the process (assuming your PPI and up front research was done well).

Otherwise, you might as well take that $15k to vegas and put it all on red or black. Even then, the roulette wheel might hit 0 or 00.