Very broken 2002 3.6 996 C4S
#62
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Ahhh makes sense - also makes me look stupid Appreciate all the help that is being shared here.
I was eager to have a look and honestly didnt even consider it at the time. Heads will be coming off next anyway so will be relieving tension off both main cam chains to do that. Hopefully will get everything stripped tomorrow as I have a good few hours spare so updates on Monday.
I was eager to have a look and honestly didnt even consider it at the time. Heads will be coming off next anyway so will be relieving tension off both main cam chains to do that. Hopefully will get everything stripped tomorrow as I have a good few hours spare so updates on Monday.
#63
Be careful with the head bolts, use a good quality torx socket that fits correctly, they are really tight if you slip and round one off you will be in trouble, I used a long breaker bar , it gives control and power at the same time, it helps if someone can push down on the socket to hold it in firm while you turn the bar, turn slow and steady, it was the way I did mine, some may use impact but I think it's easier to mess up if it's your first time!!
#64
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Right so its not good but there are some small positives. I've removed both heads and as expected one of the cylinders has collapsed in spectacular fashion and the piston is nicely broken. Its number 1 that has gone and my guess is that a crack in the liner lead to a hydro lock but I guess its irrelevant how it happened.
Now that in itself im ok with but the block has cracked as well so its scrap
Now for the positives if there is such a thing. Both heads are fine, the intermediate shaft is fine, (chains were all ok) and it appears the crank is fine but I need to investigate further. I've got pictures but forgot my lead to upload them. Will try and do them tomorrow.
Now that in itself im ok with but the block has cracked as well so its scrap
Now for the positives if there is such a thing. Both heads are fine, the intermediate shaft is fine, (chains were all ok) and it appears the crank is fine but I need to investigate further. I've got pictures but forgot my lead to upload them. Will try and do them tomorrow.
#65
Former Vendor
Right so its not good but there are some small positives. I've removed both heads and as expected one of the cylinders has collapsed in spectacular fashion and the piston is nicely broken. Its number 1 that has gone and my guess is that a crack in the liner lead to a hydro lock but I guess its irrelevant how it happened.
Now that in itself im ok with but the block has cracked as well so its scrap
Now for the positives if there is such a thing. Both heads are fine, the intermediate shaft is fine, (chains were all ok) and it appears the crank is fine but I need to investigate further. I've got pictures but forgot my lead to upload them. Will try and do them tomorrow.
Now that in itself im ok with but the block has cracked as well so its scrap
Now for the positives if there is such a thing. Both heads are fine, the intermediate shaft is fine, (chains were all ok) and it appears the crank is fine but I need to investigate further. I've got pictures but forgot my lead to upload them. Will try and do them tomorrow.
This sounds like a classic D chunk failure. A crack starts on one side of a cylinder, and a little later another crack forms at an area usually perpendicular to the first. When this happens the two will work to connect, and when they do finally meet, the whole section breaks away and coolant pressure forces the broken piece into the cylinder bore.
Collateral damages are usually limited to the effected piston, and it's connecting rod. We don't care about that, since we throw all those parts away anyhow.
These things make a cylinder failure one of the best failures that we can expect, and it usually costs no more than an elective build; because, all the effected components are junked anyway.
This one sounds textbook.
#66
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I wish that were the case but when I say the block is cracked - I mean literally the engine casing is cracked - there is about an 8inch crack in it on the bank 1 side of the casing around the power steering pump area right by where the cylinder let go.
#67
Former Vendor
That's more extreme and not repairable. If you come my way I'll give you a block for free. I have one with 28k on it that lost an IMS and the block saw no damage.
#68
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Wow - I dont think I've ever been on such a helpful forum. Why have you got to be all the way over in Cleveland That would literally solve all of my problems as it looks like the crank and IMS on mine are fine. Would probably be cheaper to fly to Cleveland than go to Porsche but then again I dont think BA would be too happy if I put an engine casing in my suit case
#69
Rennlist Member
Being in England, you may appreciate this. I brought a 1500 Cortina crankshaft back in checked baggage. Crank survived. Suitcase did not.
#70
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Wow - I dont think I've ever been on such a helpful forum. Why have you got to be all the way over in Cleveland That would literally solve all of my problems as it looks like the crank and IMS on mine are fine. Would probably be cheaper to fly to Cleveland than go to Porsche but then again I dont think BA would be too happy if I put an engine casing in my suit case
#72
Paris, TX
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There's quite a bit more but these are some of the more recognizeable ones.
I was in Australia awhile ago and visited Miami there too.
#74
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I'm trying to source another block as we speak. I'm talking with Autofarm and will speak with Porsche directly tomorrow. The Autofarm 3.9 version is too much for me unfortunately.