P1118 Engine Code Won't Go Away
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
P1118 Engine Code Won't Go Away
I started getting this code last summer and just reset the CEL about every 6 weeks. I started driving the car again in April and the code started reappearing more frequently.
According to the DME 7.2 Codes this was a Bank 2 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor that needed to be replaced. I put in a new Bosch OEM type sensor and the code returns every 3 restarts after I reset it.
I checked the connections and everything looks good. I am reading and resetting the code with my Torque App through a Bluetooth OBDII adapter. Any chance it could be giving me the wrong code?
Any chance I have my "Banks" swapped. I thought Bank 2 was the passenger side and the sensor 2 is actually over on the drive side.
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated!
According to the DME 7.2 Codes this was a Bank 2 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor that needed to be replaced. I put in a new Bosch OEM type sensor and the code returns every 3 restarts after I reset it.
I checked the connections and everything looks good. I am reading and resetting the code with my Torque App through a Bluetooth OBDII adapter. Any chance it could be giving me the wrong code?
Any chance I have my "Banks" swapped. I thought Bank 2 was the passenger side and the sensor 2 is actually over on the drive side.
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated!
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
The car is a '01 C2 which should be using DME 7.2 codes.
The Bosch part number is 15250. I should add that I have always received good real-time voltage readings from the sensor when I display them on my torque app. Or at least the sensor was transmitting voltage that was similar to the other O2 sensor most of the time. I think this would point to a heater issue rather than a wiring issue.
The Bosch part number is 15250. I should add that I have always received good real-time voltage readings from the sensor when I display them on my torque app. Or at least the sensor was transmitting voltage that was similar to the other O2 sensor most of the time. I think this would point to a heater issue rather than a wiring issue.
#5
The car is a '01 C2 which should be using DME 7.2 codes.
The Bosch part number is 15250. I should add that I have always received good real-time voltage readings from the sensor when I display them on my torque app. Or at least the sensor was transmitting voltage that was similar to the other O2 sensor most of the time. I think this would point to a heater issue rather than a wiring issue.
The Bosch part number is 15250. I should add that I have always received good real-time voltage readings from the sensor when I display them on my torque app. Or at least the sensor was transmitting voltage that was similar to the other O2 sensor most of the time. I think this would point to a heater issue rather than a wiring issue.
Pin 1 (Black wire) gets +12v when key ON engine OFF.
Pin 2 (Black/Red wire) is connected to the DME plug II/pin 1.
You can check the following:
- unplug the sensor. Check the heater resistance by measuring resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 on the sensor. It should be ~2.6 ohm
- Key ON engine OFF, check the car harness side pin 1 should have +12v
- Disconnect the DME side plug II and check continuity between plug II/pin 1 and O2 sensor socket side pin 2. They should connect.
#6
Torque Pro and the codes are correct and so is the bank 2 postcat sensor location. Your postcat sensor is quite far from the cat, right? The MkII postcat sensor is right in the middle of the cat.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I checked resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 on the sensor and get 2.4 - 2.6 ohms. Harness side pin 1 gives me 11.91 V.
Where do I disconnect the DME side plug II to check continuity between plug II/pin 1 and O2 sensor socket side pin 2?
Where do I disconnect the DME side plug II to check continuity between plug II/pin 1 and O2 sensor socket side pin 2?
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#8
Disconnect thr battery, lift up the rear parcel shelf carpet, then remove the right metal panel and you'll find the DME there.
5 plugs on it and you discoonect them in order starting from plug 1. There should be marking on the plugs that id them and you need plug 2.
http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/technical-articles/187-ecu-removal-installation-guide-for-coupe-996-997-turbo-carrera-s-gt2-gt3.html
5 plugs on it and you discoonect them in order starting from plug 1. There should be marking on the plugs that id them and you need plug 2.
http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/technical-articles/187-ecu-removal-installation-guide-for-coupe-996-997-turbo-carrera-s-gt2-gt3.html
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks to all for the help so far but I am stuck again.
The wiring diagram shows that the O2 sensor pin 2 connects to pin 1 on the DME plug. Where does the O2 sensor pin 1 connect on the DME plug?
If I disconnect the sensor, I can get continuity between the DME plug II pin 1 and the car harness pin 1 but not the car harness pin 2. This seems to indicate that I either have a problem or the wrong wiring diagram.
The wiring diagram shows that the O2 sensor pin 2 connects to pin 1 on the DME plug. Where does the O2 sensor pin 1 connect on the DME plug?
If I disconnect the sensor, I can get continuity between the DME plug II pin 1 and the car harness pin 1 but not the car harness pin 2. This seems to indicate that I either have a problem or the wrong wiring diagram.
Last edited by ttreat; 07-01-2016 at 05:06 PM.
#10
The O2 sensor pin 1 connects to 12v supplied by a relay, which activates whenever your key is at the last position before crank.
That pin 1 on the sensor should not concern you anyway as you already verified you got 11.9v on that pin before?
The DME grounds pin 2 of the sensor to power its heater, pwm I think.
That pin 1 on the sensor should not concern you anyway as you already verified you got 11.9v on that pin before?
The DME grounds pin 2 of the sensor to power its heater, pwm I think.
#11
Your measurement is indeed strange if true. Can you check if the DME plug II pin 1 cable is black/red and it matches the wire color on the pin 2 of the O2 sensor? Even if that wire is shorted to pin 1 of the O2 sensor, you should still have continuity between the DME and the pin 2 of the O2 sensor.
Any more history of the car on how it got this error msg? Someone messed with the wiring before?
#13
Hey Joe, I duuno as there are many questions still. If it's truly the same wire but with no continuity, that means the wire was cut and then shorted to the other wire/pin...quite unlikely. This one is intriguing for sure so far
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I wanted to provide a follow up to my issue.
I finally got a little time to look into the problem a little further and found that I deserve a really good dope slap! The initial fix was done in a hurry with 10 minutes of spare time. Obviously this led me to spend unnecessary additional time trouble shooting. After questioning a number of things that didn't make sense, including non matching wire colors to the schematic, I thought I should double check the other sensor locations and wire colors and quickly realized that I replaced the wrong sensor. So far the CIL has not returned.
I finally got a little time to look into the problem a little further and found that I deserve a really good dope slap! The initial fix was done in a hurry with 10 minutes of spare time. Obviously this led me to spend unnecessary additional time trouble shooting. After questioning a number of things that didn't make sense, including non matching wire colors to the schematic, I thought I should double check the other sensor locations and wire colors and quickly realized that I replaced the wrong sensor. So far the CIL has not returned.