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With your help I have narrowed down my spoiler problem to a highly probable micro switch failure. I know they are on the passenger side, but how do you get to them? And....how do you determine if they are faulty? Thanks!
That post you referred me to was excellent! Now I know why in the Parts Cataloge it shows no micro switch for the Spoiler....there isn't one! It's those 2 "contact points". I'm certain now that must be my problem. My Spoiler cycles up & down without noise or other problems....it just won't turn the light off on my dash.....so, the top will not function. I shall tackle the disassemble, cleaning, lubing, and re-assembly tomorrow. I bet it will work and I will let you know. And a hearty handshake to Insomnic for the excellent visuals and explanation....definitely above and beyond.
OK........took the Spoiler mech. off....disassembled...cleaned...lubed...checked switches...re-assembled. Spoiler goes up & down smoothly...but, it did before I cleaned it up too. But....the dash light indicating that the Spoiler is not closed still remains lit.......so, the top will not retract. I'm guessing one or both of the micro switches is faulty and they are not "plug & play". I don't mind splicing new ones in....but these switches do not even show up on the 996 Parts List. HELP!
I dropped a small bolt....then a small nut...had to remove air box to find them (twice) P.I.T.A. But....that's what I get for being old and fumble fingered!
Any diagnostic done so far to condemn the microswitch? That part of the circuit is like this. There's a gray/green wire that goes to one of the microswitches. There'a also a brown wire on the same microswitch that's connected to the ground. When the spoiler is completely closed, the internal gear will activate this microswitch and the grey/green wire will then get connected to the ground.
This gray/green wire goes through the main connector on the engine lid, then another connector inside the car before it reaches the DME. When the DME sees a ground on this wire, it will know the spoiler is closed completely.
So your problem could be the switch or it could be a break anywhere between the switch and the DME. To troubleshoot it further will take some multimeter work.
So....I guess I should start with the switches then work my way toward the DME. Any more "tips" on this "process"??? Is there any way to "clear" the light from the dash to see if it comes on again. I have Durametric software on my laptop. And...if it is a switch (or two) where can I find them??? Radio Shack? I just gotta get that top down.....the weather here is perfect now!
I would start with the following relatively easy checks first:
1) Scan with Durametric to see if there are any spoiler codes
2) Lower the spoiler completely then unplug the spoiler electrical 12-pin connector in the right rear engine bay. Then on the spoiler side connector (not the car hardness side) check if pin 5 (brown ground wire) and pin 4 (gray/green wire) have continuity. This tells the DME the spoiler is all the way down. If they don't have continuity, one of the microswitches is bad. Sorry but AFAIK, those microswitches are not available from Porsche. Not sure if there are generic ones. Did you see any p/n on them when you removed them?
3) Reconnect the spoiler connector then raise the spoiler fully. Then again disconnect the connector. On the spoiler side connector (not the car harness side) check if pin5 (ground) and pin 2 (green/brown) have continuity. This tells the DME the spoiler is extended completely. If your brake light on the spoiler works when the spoiler is fully extended and you press on the brake, this test should pass.
OK....I will have to test those micro switches. I took it for a test drive and the dash light for the Spoiler went out for about 10 minutes....then came back on. While it was out I stopped and tried the top retract button....nothing. Put it in the garage....Spoiler dash light on, tried the old "put the key in the door and turn to the left". Voila, top begins to smoothly retract until about 2/3 of the way down then it comes to an abrupt halt. No noise from the hydralics, no slow down, both sides come down (and go back up) smoothly....just won't go down all of the way. Baffled again....as usual. Boy, my '68 S was SO much easier to work on.........sigh.
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Let us know how it works out for you.
Airbox is loose because.......
How do you access the Spoiler Micro Switches?
Thanks....excellent referral
Well........I tried!
