Simon Guertin

Hi,

when I remove my key, the car still thinks it is inserted.

I already changed the ignition switch, but the problem still remains. I am either thinking the new ignition switch is faulty (I have 2 more, could try them) or it is in the ignition key cylinder that a contact is not good.

I was able to remove and put back the key cylinder & attach the immobilizer cable, just to make sure.. but next step would be to inspect & clean the key cylinder? Is there a wire I where I can put a manual switch to make the car think the key is removed? I am a bit scared to play with the immobilizer wires though..

Now I can't lock the car, I have to remove the fuse C3 I think so the power locks don't work after I lock the car using the lock button from the inside. But the battery still drains in that state.

Thanks!

DBJoe996

Which electrical switch brand did you use? Why did you replace it in the first place? Do not cut any wires. Get another electrical switch of a different brand and try it.

FRUNKenstein

Read this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ping-back.html

It could be that the new ignition switch you swapped in was bad - the cheap $9 or $12 ones are not very well built. I'd try a $30 (or at warehouse33auto.com they are $26 I think) switch - better quality may make the difference. If that's not it, then I'd try the $250 repair discussed in the referenced thread.

Concur with DBJoe, don't go cutting any wires - bad juju.

Simon Guertin

I have both types of switch. (one at 8$ and one at 30$ from pelican parts, I think the 30$ is from Audi-VW, same model#)

I will try the other one, or both. (actually my car is a 2000 Boxster S, but I think everything is the same) I have a 911 996 too so I posted by mistake in the wrong forum.

I will let you know tonight!

thanks!

fpb111

There is a small rod in the center of all of the switch parts.
When the end of the key pushes this rod it activates the "Hey Wake Up" circuit.

My experience with the $9 switch is that this rod starts to stick pressed in within a short time of being put into service. If I tapped the switch cylinder with the key, after I removed it, the rod would release and the car would shut down. I replaced it with the $30 switch and it was working fine 2 yrs later when I sold the car. YMMV

Simon Guertin

Thanks I will try to see if the rods can be loosened up. I tried to replace the switch again with another one and the problem is still there.

So I hope this rod is what is causing it.

Also, I notice that there could be a small plastic flap that could be stuck in the pushed-in position at the opening of the key. I tried very hard to loosen it with some very small & strong dentist tools, but no luck. I saw that in my other car, there is a small flat that gets pushed in when the key gets inserted. I am wondering if this is what is causing the car to think the key is in also?

Simon Guertin

So it looks like its really the mechanism that is not retracting and constantly pushing the small pin in the ignition switch. I gave the switch a very small gap and it looks like the issue is kind of solved. I think I still need to change the steering lock assembly & key cylinder as the key is now having trouble to get it and out now that I gave the small gap.

My mechanics says we usually replaces this and reprograms the key cylinder to match my current key.

Thanks for they help.