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Old 04-06-2016, 08:27 AM
  #31  
dporto
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Originally Posted by Howaboutthat
A little instructional video for you is worth ten thousand words. Enjoy. BTW, I believe that's Hurdi in the blue chase car backing out of the Safeway using his patented 2,500 rpm+ method.

Wow -- the memories. Between the tire squeal-fest and that Chevelle rocking back and forth like a boat at sea just reversing out of the parking spot.... Small wonder that imports moved in and commandeered the car market here.
^ My thoughts exactly ^ 😄
Old 04-06-2016, 10:03 AM
  #32  
rymerc
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Originally Posted by phil996cab99
"Yes." Feel free to add more detail on how to unweight the rear.
Trail brake on turn in, when you feel the outside tires are loaded up open the throttle to get some rotation. Depending on your course setup I'll try for a slightly early apex depending on how much rotation I need, front will come wide a bit as the rear steps out and you counter steer to correct.

If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
Old 04-06-2016, 10:18 AM
  #33  
Sneaky Pete
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Originally Posted by rymerc

If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
Keep in mind this is happening at 15-22 MPH. ^^All the above.
Old 04-06-2016, 10:32 AM
  #34  
DTMiller
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Keep in mind that this probably is some stupid fake post and isn't happening at all but if it is it is happening in the street and wtf just don't.
Old 04-06-2016, 03:01 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by porschemikeandnancy
I agree - in fact it's also an issue when approaching a light that has just turned from red to green. If the cars starting to accelerate from their stopped position - often I'm unsure whether to down shift to 1st - or "lug it out" in 2nd. Due to the known issue of IMS failure, I try not to use any relatively open throttle below 3000 rpm. So when approaching the light under these conditions I either use 1st - and apply as much throttle as I like, or use 2nd and very gently accelerate until the rpm's are close to 3000.
I do this as well, although sometimes when it's a close call, I'll blip the throttle and drop it into 1st. Kind of a "feel thing".
Old 04-06-2016, 03:16 PM
  #36  
JayG
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Originally Posted by rymerc
Trail brake on turn in, when you feel the outside tires are loaded up open the throttle to get some rotation. Depending on your course setup I'll try for a slightly early apex depending on how much rotation I need, front will come wide a bit as the rear steps out and you counter steer to correct.

If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
did you read that this is on the street, not the track!
Old 04-06-2016, 03:22 PM
  #37  
5CHN3LL
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This thread is showing promise. It may someday eclipse the "what do you wear" thread.
Old 04-06-2016, 04:26 PM
  #38  
Sneaky Pete
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I'm starting to think a lot of the respondents need some track time.
Old 04-06-2016, 04:29 PM
  #39  
5CHN3LL
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In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
Old 04-06-2016, 04:34 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
Now why did you wait so long to put that out there? Makes perfect sense!
Old 04-06-2016, 04:38 PM
  #41  
Arch1t3ct
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
This far down the rabbit hole, I was surprised to see any attempt at an actual response. I am glad I didn't stop reading!
Old 04-06-2016, 04:51 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
Why you don't know **** from Shinola, do you boy? You cannot rely on DECK NAILS to minimize body roll. DECK NAILS? Don't talk to me about DECK NAILS. The tensile strength that is gonna be REQUIRED with those kinds of torque loads is gonna call for lag bolts.
Old 04-06-2016, 04:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 5CHN3LL
This thread is showing promise. It may someday eclipse the "what do you wear" thread.
+996

Plus we all know that downshifting to 1st will exert unnecessary and damaging side load forces on the IMS.
Old 04-06-2016, 05:14 PM
  #44  
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I prefer starting in 3rd all the time. This allows me to continuously check the condition of my clutch.
Old 04-07-2016, 03:55 AM
  #45  
phil996cab99
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This thread is about 996 driving techniques. It's not about street racing. Those who don't want to talk about 996 driving techniques kindly stay the f*ck out.


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