1st gear or 2nd gear
#31
Rennlist Member
A little instructional video for you is worth ten thousand words. Enjoy. BTW, I believe that's Hurdi in the blue chase car backing out of the Safeway using his patented 2,500 rpm+ method.
Wow -- the memories. Between the tire squeal-fest and that Chevelle rocking back and forth like a boat at sea just reversing out of the parking spot.... Small wonder that imports moved in and commandeered the car market here.
Wow -- the memories. Between the tire squeal-fest and that Chevelle rocking back and forth like a boat at sea just reversing out of the parking spot.... Small wonder that imports moved in and commandeered the car market here.
#32
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Central Ohio
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Trail brake on turn in, when you feel the outside tires are loaded up open the throttle to get some rotation. Depending on your course setup I'll try for a slightly early apex depending on how much rotation I need, front will come wide a bit as the rear steps out and you counter steer to correct.
If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
#34
Rennlist Member
Keep in mind that this probably is some stupid fake post and isn't happening at all but if it is it is happening in the street and wtf just don't.
#35
I agree - in fact it's also an issue when approaching a light that has just turned from red to green. If the cars starting to accelerate from their stopped position - often I'm unsure whether to down shift to 1st - or "lug it out" in 2nd. Due to the known issue of IMS failure, I try not to use any relatively open throttle below 3000 rpm. So when approaching the light under these conditions I either use 1st - and apply as much throttle as I like, or use 2nd and very gently accelerate until the rpm's are close to 3000.
#36
Three Wheelin'
Trail brake on turn in, when you feel the outside tires are loaded up open the throttle to get some rotation. Depending on your course setup I'll try for a slightly early apex depending on how much rotation I need, front will come wide a bit as the rear steps out and you counter steer to correct.
If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
If your front is going wide at that speed, I hope the surface is ****, your tires are awful, something is worn or broken, or you're upsetting the chassis?
#39
Race Director
In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
#40
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
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In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
#41
In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
#42
Rennlist Member
In order to heel-toe and prevent lugging, weight transfer from the inner-outer wheels should be concentrated on the outer-inner races, ensuring proper piston skirt clearances and optimizing spark and air/fuel ratios. Downshifting from 6th to first should only be done at the last moment to ensure maximum loading of the load-bearing walls, and deck nails should be utilized to verify that body roll is minimized throughout the process of homogenization. Trail breaking can also be done if one finds that the trail has been overgrown. Thus, the inside rear wheel and the outside front wheel will synchronize and under/oversteer will be cancelled out by the dual-mass flywheel. And limited-slip differentials in order to stoichiometric with the least amount of negative camber.
#43
#45
Racer
Thread Starter
This thread is about 996 driving techniques. It's not about street racing. Those who don't want to talk about 996 driving techniques kindly stay the f*ck out.