Check Engine Light but no codes??

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Mar 26, 2016 | 02:30 PM
  #1  
Anyone experience this? I couldnt really find much in search but the car drives like normal, pretty much stock everything. I had it scanned at autozone but they didnt find any codes
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Mar 26, 2016 | 02:32 PM
  #2  
You may want to try anothet autozone or another scanner. Highly unlikely to have CEL and no codes.

Quote: Anyone experience this? I couldnt really find much in search but the car drives like normal, pretty much stock everything. I had it scanned at autozone but they didnt find any codes
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Mar 26, 2016 | 02:50 PM
  #3  
You can pick up a cheap code reader from Harbor Freight for about $55, and even less if you use the 20% off coupon that comes out about once a week.

While the cheap reader is no Durametric, it *WILL* at least give you the numeric code, and you can then google it or ask here. As an example, mine will textually identify that I might have a cyl 1 misfire (P0301 - I think) in addition to the code, but it had no idea what a P1341 error was. But it does give you the code.
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Mar 26, 2016 | 03:12 PM
  #4  
You can pick up a BT OBDII scanner for $30ish. (Haven't checked in a while) I would rather get that instead of a HF scanner.
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Mar 26, 2016 | 03:51 PM
  #5  
Quote: Anyone experience this? I couldnt really find much in search but the car drives like normal, pretty much stock everything. I had it scanned at autozone but they didnt find any codes
You sure the CEL is on and not some other warning light?

If the CEL is on then there should be an active (or maybe a permanent) error code. It would have to be a sorry OBD2 code reader not to read the code, unless perhaps the code was out of the code reader's range.

There is one other possibility. The CEL could be stuck on due to an electrical malfunction in the gage cluster.

The way I understand (well, partially understand) how the thing works is all the LEDs are powered via a common power line, but to light the LED requires an I/O pin be driven either high or low. When you first turn on the key all warning lights light up because each LED's pin state's default state completes the circuit.

Once the engine has started then the DME goes through and if it finds no reason to leave the light on changes the pin state to extinguish the light.

So if you are sure the CEL LED is in fact on and there is no active or permanent error code then you have to consider an electrical fault.
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Mar 26, 2016 | 07:19 PM
  #6  
I went to a different autozone and they ran the code but once again nothing was showing up...he then ran my car in the system as a 911 AWD and the vin popped up along with the code which is P0455 (fuel tank vent system leak)
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Mar 26, 2016 | 08:17 PM
  #7  
Check if your gas cap is tightly on and if its o-ring has cracks.
Other potential causes here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...code-is-p0455/
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Mar 27, 2016 | 03:52 AM
  #8  
Quote: Check if your gas cap is tightly on and if its o-ring has cracks.
Other potential causes here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...code-is-p0455/
That article is the first one I came across actually! I do think the gas cap needs replacement
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Mar 27, 2016 | 09:47 AM
  #9  
Quote: That article is the first one I came across actually! I do think the gas cap needs replacement
"Occam's Razor" at work - the answer to a problem is often the simplest.
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Mar 27, 2016 | 02:30 PM
  #10  
That happened to me at least once where the light was on and my cheap bluetooth reader didn't come up with anything. Figured that if it was able to clear it, and if it didn't come back, that it wasn't a big deal.
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Apr 1, 2016 | 01:08 PM
  #11  





Is that the o-ring you guys are talking about?
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Apr 1, 2016 | 01:18 PM
  #12  
Yup
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Apr 1, 2016 | 02:18 PM
  #13  
yup what he ^^^ said. Those pics show the culprit. The o-ring can get brittle and crack.
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Apr 1, 2016 | 08:44 PM
  #14  
Looks a bit worse than the gas cap from my 2002 Boxster. The tether broke a few months back and I ordered a new cap with a new tether. After I got the new cap I looked at both the new one and the old one closely and noticed the rubber seal/o-ring had cracks/splits in it like in the picture. Not quite as bad but close. The old cap was not leaking but it was not far from it.

Check the oil filler tube cap - with the engine idling -- to see if you can move it around and if the engine reacts. I've worn out two of these caps in nearly 300K miles.
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