ABS / PSM lights on cluster- how do i reset
#1
ABS / PSM lights on cluster- how do i reset
Just finished front suspension with all new bits - oh yea and the frunk cable broke / all better
Now- these lights came on - I unplugged the battery - nada they pop back on after a few seconds
Any idea on how to shut them off ??
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Now- these lights came on - I unplugged the battery - nada they pop back on after a few seconds
Any idea on how to shut them off ??
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#4
Took the car out for a few test drives - has not turned off yet - I did purchase
A wifi obd2 for checking the codes - after I get the car aligned
Note the PSM button will not switch on or off when pressed?
Could that be a fuse?
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A wifi obd2 for checking the codes - after I get the car aligned
Note the PSM button will not switch on or off when pressed?
Could that be a fuse?
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#5
I don't think a generic wifi obdii scanner would be able to retrieve and reset ABS/PSM codes if there are real issues in the ABS/PSM system. You need Duramatric.
Have you checked the brake fluid and if all the brake pad wear/ABS sender connectors are tight? Those connectors have locks so I can't imagine how they can be loose unless you totally forgot to connect them.
Have you checked the brake fluid and if all the brake pad wear/ABS sender connectors are tight? Those connectors have locks so I can't imagine how they can be loose unless you totally forgot to connect them.
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#10
The PSM light will come on when there is an ABS error. When the lights come on, the representative system is disabled. In the case on the PSM, the switch is rendered ineffective.
I had the same issue with mine and it was the stop light switch on the pedal. Essentially the pedal was not fully returning due to a sticking booster. If the circuit is open long enough, those two lights will illuminate. They will reset with a key off if this is your cause. I found I could reproduce the problem and prevent it by lifting up on the brake pedal.
A Durametric enthusiast is able to identify the problem.
I had the same issue with mine and it was the stop light switch on the pedal. Essentially the pedal was not fully returning due to a sticking booster. If the circuit is open long enough, those two lights will illuminate. They will reset with a key off if this is your cause. I found I could reproduce the problem and prevent it by lifting up on the brake pedal.
A Durametric enthusiast is able to identify the problem.
#11
The PSM light will come on when there is an ABS error. When the lights come on, the representative system is disabled. In the case on the PSM, the switch is rendered ineffective. I had the same issue with mine and it was the stop light switch on the pedal. Essentially the pedal was not fully returning due to a sticking booster. If the circuit is open long enough, those two lights will illuminate. They will reset with a key off if this is your cause. I found I could reproduce the problem and prevent it by lifting up on the brake pedal. A Durametric enthusiast is able to identify the problem.
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#12
I just re-read your post where you say the lights come on within a few seconds. That's probably not the stop light switch. From my experience, if the error is related to the stop light switch, the vehicle has to be in motion for the lights to come on and it will be after a few minutes. If yours are coming on within a few seconds, I'd guess a component of the ABS is failing self-check, which disables ABS, which disables PSM, which disables, the PSM switch.
A Durametric should be able to pinpoint the error. I bought one on Saturday and I can tell you it's worth every penny.
A Durametric should be able to pinpoint the error. I bought one on Saturday and I can tell you it's worth every penny.
#14
I had to order order Duramtric just to erase my ABS light. No error was present, but for some reason, the ABS errors get stored permanetly, even after few battery disconnects.
Durametric erased it right away, never came back.
Durametric erased it right away, never came back.
#15
You could have damaged the abs wheel speed sensor(s) when you were replacing a wheel bearing. That would be my guess based on what you posted.
You can always disconnect it and put a multimeter to measure resistance while you move the wire around since you indicated it came on 20 min later the last time you drove it.
You can always disconnect it and put a multimeter to measure resistance while you move the wire around since you indicated it came on 20 min later the last time you drove it.