5CHN3LL

If you don't mind spending the money, these are supposed to be nice, since they key into the lift point.



Or you can be ghetto like me and use the pucks...

laphan

I guess I'm on ghetto side. I use old microfiber between the jack plate to lift point

RickMiller

Same here - had a Craftsman give up the ghost inside of a year of very moderate use. Like many others on the thread, I picked up a HF (the 2 1/2 ton jack) and have been very pleased so far. Interestingly, I also have stands, rhino ramps and a hockey puck for all of my lifting needs

5CHN3LL

It's good to see someone else with a properly-equipped garage.

DTMiller

I solved that problem thusly, for about $8.

Cuda911

Same here, along with HF "Pittsburgh" brand jack stands.

So far, none of me bones been squished.

Ahsai

Attributes I consider for a foor jack:
- weight. Prefer 50lb or less for portability and easy rolling
- min height. Prefer 3.5" or lower
- max height. Prefer 18" or higher

The OTC aluminum jack (or its clones) meets all of the above. For lowered cars, I drive the car on 2x12 first before jacking.

RickMiller

And then there's this newish t-shirt that my wife got me....

emdiquanfolg1989

When it comes to buying a hydraulic jack, I always check the features and see if they are suitable for my car. I inspect the lift claw, the legs, the release valve, and many more. I also compare them to other products to see which one has the best build. Your pick seems to be a good one, but it’s always a good thing to browse online dealers to see more choices.

emdiquanfolg1989

When it comes to buying a hydraulic jack, I always check the features and see if they are suitable for my car. I inspect the lift claw, the legs, the release valve, and many more. I also compare them to other products to see which one has the best build. Your pick seems to be a good one, but it’s always a good thing to browse online dealers to see more choices.