First Start Pre lube or not pre lube??
#17
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Jake , is there any mileage in using something like a melling pre lube system which forces oil in from a pressurised tank through one of the gallery entries like the oil pressure switch hole, I have used plenty of assembly lube and oil but was worried about the bores getting dry as it seems to only needs the piston to go up and down once and the rings clear away all the oil you put on, hopefully enough has soaked into the pourous lokasil !!
#18
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Interested in the bit about the oil filter pre-fill...what engine does NOT have the oil filter post-pump? why does a M96 struggle here vs every other engine?
Cheers,
Cheers,
Pulling plugs and spinning on the starter will never prime one of these engines properly when it has just been built. I have tried, and tried this with no luck. You'll deplete all of the assembly lube from the components, before the oil pressure builds on the starter. I see people treat this engine improperly all the time.
We start the car and shut it off immediately, like in a split second of hearing the first combustion cycle. I do this 5-6 times before I note the oil light on the dash no longer illuminating, then I fire it up and let it run.
I do NOT fill the filter with oil first. Doing this requires that air push the oil through the filter. Remember, the oil filter in the M96 is AFTER the oil pump, so it will not help with priming to fill it with oil. Its tough to have air push the oil through the filter. Instead, let the filter fill as the air is bled through the oil system.
We start the car and shut it off immediately, like in a split second of hearing the first combustion cycle. I do this 5-6 times before I note the oil light on the dash no longer illuminating, then I fire it up and let it run.
I do NOT fill the filter with oil first. Doing this requires that air push the oil through the filter. Remember, the oil filter in the M96 is AFTER the oil pump, so it will not help with priming to fill it with oil. Its tough to have air push the oil through the filter. Instead, let the filter fill as the air is bled through the oil system.
#19
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Jake , is there any mileage in using something like a melling pre lube system which forces oil in from a pressurised tank through one of the gallery entries like the oil pressure switch hole, I have used plenty of assembly lube and oil but was worried about the bores getting dry as it seems to only needs the piston to go up and down once and the rings clear away all the oil you put on, hopefully enough has soaked into the pourous lokasil !!
That's what it's there for, and you're not going to jump on the throttle anyway off the bat so it should be fine following his first startup instructions.
#20
Former Vendor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not a Porsche engine, but my dad and I would pack the oil pump with some kind of grease so it's primed ready to go on a newly rebuilt engine. We of course use assembly lube on everything too.
-Jason
-Jason
#21
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok a few people saying about packing oil pump with grease, I just got assembly lube and oil in there at the moment but may open it up.
Does this help the pump draw the first bit of oil through and also protect the pump?
Does this help the pump draw the first bit of oil through and also protect the pump?
#22
Three Wheelin'
#23
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
every (wet sump) engine I know is, oil sump to pump to filter to 'engine'...
dry sump is similar, oil 'sump' to scavenge pump to tank to pressure pump to filter(and most always a cooler) to engine
dry sump is similar, oil 'sump' to scavenge pump to tank to pressure pump to filter(and most always a cooler) to engine
#24
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This may help, since these engines are so expensive and starting them up for the first time a bit scary - if for no other reason than doubts and second guessing.
Go through your check list one more time to double make sure everything has been done. Then walk away and have a friend start it up and follow Rabys process.
=)
#27
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think the idea of the grease is to provide a seal in a dry pump to permit it to pull the air/oil up through the pickup tube and supply oil to the engine. Without some lube in the pump, it may not create enough suction to pull the oil up. I suppose it would also protect the pump from scoring but that is not the primary purpose IMO.
#28
Former Vendor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think the idea of the grease is to provide a seal in a dry pump to permit it to pull the air/oil up through the pickup tube and supply oil to the engine. Without some lube in the pump, it may not create enough suction to pull the oil up. I suppose it would also protect the pump from scoring but that is not the primary purpose IMO.
-Jason
#29
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jake
What do you think about packing pump with grease to prime it??
I have rebuild lube and some oil in there but haven't packed it with grease, could this be a problem for the pump to pickup on initial start or should it be ok??
Thanks Lee
What do you think about packing pump with grease to prime it??
I have rebuild lube and some oil in there but haven't packed it with grease, could this be a problem for the pump to pickup on initial start or should it be ok??
Thanks Lee
#30
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Jake , is there any mileage in using something like a melling pre lube system which forces oil in from a pressurised tank through one of the gallery entries like the oil pressure switch hole, I have used plenty of assembly lube and oil but was worried about the bores getting dry as it seems to only needs the piston to go up and down once and the rings clear away all the oil you put on, hopefully enough has soaked into the pourous lokasil !!
The concern is not so much the piston/rings/cylinders run dry but the cam lobe/lifter bucket faces run low on oil. These are very far away from the oil pump so priming the engine oil system to have the oil passages full of oil is very important.
There is only a very small line of contact between the cam lobe and the lifter bucket face when the valve is fully open. The PSI is very high at this contact line. Using the right assembly lube and ensuring the oil system passages are full of oil and keeping RPMs up to ensure sufficient oil supply at the top end and sufficient splash lube of the cam lobes and lifter buckets is critical.
Along with everything else...