rockhouse66

Has anyone modified or found a tool that will remove the inaccessible screws that retain the coolant bleeder valve? I would prefer not to remove the coolant tank to do this and already have the new valve in hand.

I can remove one of the two tough ones (slowly) but the one at about 10 o'clock (looking down on the top of the valve) is going to require a "just right" combination of socket height or maybe wrench offset.

DBJoe996

Flexible 1/4" drive extension will probably work...it'll be a tight fit. I would get a short one.

Ahsai

I would not trust reusing those screws or putting in new ones. The screws have very course threads and it doesn't look like they will bite well after they've been removed.

rockhouse66

The universal might work, but would have to be a 7mm socket made on a universal. There is simply no room for a socket AND a universal. I hear what you are saying Ahsai. The valve comes with new screws, and the old ones seem willing to come out, but I recognize there is risk involved here.

I cut off a 7mm 6-point 1/4" drive socket as shallow as I dared and will give this combo a try tomorrow.

fpb111

But one of these or better yet get a set.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...S_010=75598425

rockhouse66

Problem is - it isn't a straight shot.

rockhouse66

I can confirm that the shortened socket and the small flex handle will actually go on that "impossible" screw head and there is room to turn it too. I think it can be backed out maybe 1/4" before you run out of room to work above it. At that point, the socket with a thumbwheel type attachment (I have one) "might" get it the rest of the way out if it isn't too hard to turn. Or you would have to turn it with your fingers or maybe a pair of pliers.

The screw just in front of it, also hard to access, can be screwed out with an open end wrench but once "out" it can't actually be removed from the bleeder valve housing because there isn't enough vertical clearance. Just have to remove the housing with the screw still in it and then remember to place that screw into the housing before re-installation.

Having said all that, I am going to chill on this project because the bleeder valve housing does not seem to be weeping coolant since I snugged up the screws and, as Ahsai noted, there is real risk here of getting it apart (eventually) and still needing to replace the coolant tank.

rockhouse66

I came to my senses and returned the bleeder valve and bought a new coolant tank (which includes the bleeder valve). I'll replace the whole thing at some point in the near future. One reason being it looked like just doing the bleeder with the tank in the car would be just as much work, or at least require as much time, as replacing the complete tank. Another is that the tank in my car appears to be original which, at 68K miles, is not a good thing. And lastly, helpful input from the members here. Thanks!

Ahsai

Good call. If yours a MkI, coolant tank replacement is not too bad. MkII will be more difficult.

rockhouse66

Ahsai - it is a Mk. 2 but it looks to me like most of the junk on the left side needs to come out or loose and then you are there. Air pump, air box and some hoses and wires. I guess I'll be an expert on this once I've done it.

Ahsai

It's more difficult than that. What works for me is to unbolt the engine mounts and lower the engine to its lowest point. Some people found that removing that big hex bolt on the fuel rail helped.

rockhouse66

So maybe the info I saw on this was a Mk. 1 because it didn't look too tough to me. Your description of the work sounds like a real project - doable, but a project.

Ahsai

It's not too bad but it's not as simple as just moving other stuff away. The major issue is the tank is difficult to extract from the confined cavity.