Engine knock - any ideas?
#1
Engine knock - any ideas?
First let me say I'm not really worried about IMS . I recently got this porsche and Ive just noticed a faint knocking I didn't hear before. Im sure it could be nothing but I've never heard it before so I'd appreciate any advice. It sounds like its coming from left side.
Previous engine related maintenance on this car:
2013 - IMS, chain tensionerx2, timing chain tensioner,cam plug
2012-clutch kit, pilot bearing, crankshaft seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CWj...ature=youtu.be
Hmm. Not sure if video is showing up, I used the youtube tags.
Previous engine related maintenance on this car:
2013 - IMS, chain tensionerx2, timing chain tensioner,cam plug
2012-clutch kit, pilot bearing, crankshaft seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CWj...ature=youtu.be
Hmm. Not sure if video is showing up, I used the youtube tags.
Last edited by zak996; 07-24-2015 at 11:50 AM.
#2
First let me say I'm not really worried about IMS . I recently got this porsche and Ive just noticed a faint knocking I didn't hear before. Im sure it could be nothing but I've never heard it before so I'd appreciate any advice. It sounds like its coming from left side.
Previous engine related maintenance on this car:
2013 - IMS, chain tensionerx2, timing chain tensioner,cam plug
2012-clutch kit, pilot bearing, crankshaft seal.
Hmm. Not sure if video is showing up, I used the youtube tags.
Previous engine related maintenance on this car:
2013 - IMS, chain tensionerx2, timing chain tensioner,cam plug
2012-clutch kit, pilot bearing, crankshaft seal.
Hmm. Not sure if video is showing up, I used the youtube tags.
If rather than flat bedding the car to a shop for diagnosis if you want to do some investigation for your own benefit, the first thing I'd advise is you remove the oil filter housing and carefully dump its contents into a clean drain pan and check for scary metal/plastic debris.
While you are not really worried about IMSB you should eliminate this as a possible explanation for the noise.
After you have done this and have found nothing scary and have installed the housing with the filter and topped up the engine oil then my recommendation would be to gain access to the accessory drive of the engine and remove the belt -- note carefully its routing and direction of rotation so you can reinstall it as it was before or install a new belt correctly if you replace the old belt.
Then check each accessory drive pulley for any play. You will have a number of them to check and the one with the most play -- it may not be alot of extra play either -- is the suspected source of the noise.
The belt will tell you something too, if one or both edges are sharp.
Along with bearing play check out give the water pump a thorough check for any coolant leak sign. One telltale is a lump of dried anti-freeze residue under and behind the pulley.
If you find no obvious accessary drive if the noise appears from a dead cold start you can start the engine and let it idle with the belt removed long enough to determine if the noise is still present. If it is present and coming from the engine area -- vs. say the transmission area or from the exhaust system area -- then shut off the engine and install the belt and button the car up and get it flat bedded to a shop qualified to diagnose the problem and repair the engine.
#4
So I got to it today. After having mechanic friend have a listen Im not convinced its a 'knock' per say. It sounds like its coming from lower left side and easier to hear from the rear left wheel well. The sound is alot less noticeable than when I posted the other day. I can only assume because it was cooler when I started the car that morning?
Anyways, I dropped the oil filter cover - oil is clean.
I removed the drive belt, cleaned the belt and pullies while I was at it.
Started the car with belt off and everything sounded ok for the 10-15 seconds I had it running, but it was pretty faint when I began the job so not sure.
I did look for play on the pullies and only the water pump had a little play. I posted a video. Not sure if this is enough to make a noise. When the belt went back on I tried to pry on it a tad and it was really tight (with belt on). No sign of coolant buildup but I couldnt get behind the pulley. Not even sure if you can take that out with the motor in the car? EDIT: Googled it and looks like this can be a DIY
When I started the car with the belt back on it was faint also.. and took a few seconds for me to hear the noise. But it's still there.
What do you think?
Anyways, I dropped the oil filter cover - oil is clean.
I removed the drive belt, cleaned the belt and pullies while I was at it.
Started the car with belt off and everything sounded ok for the 10-15 seconds I had it running, but it was pretty faint when I began the job so not sure.
I did look for play on the pullies and only the water pump had a little play. I posted a video. Not sure if this is enough to make a noise. When the belt went back on I tried to pry on it a tad and it was really tight (with belt on). No sign of coolant buildup but I couldnt get behind the pulley. Not even sure if you can take that out with the motor in the car? EDIT: Googled it and looks like this can be a DIY
When I started the car with the belt back on it was faint also.. and took a few seconds for me to hear the noise. But it's still there.
What do you think?
Last edited by zak996; 07-26-2015 at 10:52 PM.
#7
Water pump is shot.
The longer you drive it the larger the chance that it will contact the engine block and either break off the plastic impellers sending them into the engine to obstruct small water passages and cause cracked heads, and or other serious damage.
If it is an aftermarket steel impeller pump on contact with the block it will gouge metal from the block's pump mating scroll, sending that into the engine to very possibly cause catastrophic damage. If it gouges the block deep enough the block will need to be replaced.
You should probably consider replacing the pump SOON. Like Monday morning?
The longer you drive it the larger the chance that it will contact the engine block and either break off the plastic impellers sending them into the engine to obstruct small water passages and cause cracked heads, and or other serious damage.
If it is an aftermarket steel impeller pump on contact with the block it will gouge metal from the block's pump mating scroll, sending that into the engine to very possibly cause catastrophic damage. If it gouges the block deep enough the block will need to be replaced.
You should probably consider replacing the pump SOON. Like Monday morning?
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#8
What others have said. Do not run the engine any more. That's enough play to condemn a whole bunch of Porsche water pumps.
When my Boxster's water pump was making noise and I checked for play there was some but it was so slight I had to go around and check the other accessory drives again just to have some idea of what less play felt like. That the water pump had any play was enough to have me flat bed the car to the dealer and have the water pump replaced.
When my Boxster's water pump was making noise and I checked for play there was some but it was so slight I had to go around and check the other accessory drives again just to have some idea of what less play felt like. That the water pump had any play was enough to have me flat bed the car to the dealer and have the water pump replaced.
#9
Might add that with that much play I would be concerned about broken/missing impeller blades from the play allowing the impeller to contact the block. The water pump impeller blades do not have that much clearance between themselves and the block.
If the pump comes out with the impellers intact that's great. But if not then steps have to be taken to ensure the impeller debris is removed. A thorough back flush of the car's various cooling system sub-circuits is called for. One wants to flush the radiators backwards to flush out any possible impeller debris from them and the block too with same goal in mind.
If the pump comes out with the impellers intact that's great. But if not then steps have to be taken to ensure the impeller debris is removed. A thorough back flush of the car's various cooling system sub-circuits is called for. One wants to flush the radiators backwards to flush out any possible impeller debris from them and the block too with same goal in mind.
#13
You have dodged a very big bullet with the water pump showing that much play. I'm surprised that you can't peer in and see the impeller from the outside with that much play.
Have the car flat bedded to where it will be fixed and be sure you mention the possibility the impeller blades may be shredded and if so the engine and radiators can be back flushed to remove the debris.
If the water pump impeller comes out intact then buy a lottery ticket.
If you win remember me! A new GT3 -- any color -- would be just fine. Thank you.