OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal). I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend. As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business!

The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later. Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine!

My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)? Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap? If the consensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/ Desicant module, etc.)?

Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick! Be gentle...

P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?

 

Sorry to see the mishap. I think it's best to replace it before damaging the compressor. In addition to the oil issue you pointed out, I also suspect with restricted flow on the low pressure side (looks like the low pressure line to me based on its larger diameter compared to the high pressure line next to it), the compressor will have to work harder to achieve the set temperature.

The dryer needs to be replaced if the system is exposed to the atmosphere for some time. I think if you can replace the line quickly say in a few minutes, probably you can get away with it. The dryer is only $70 though so you may as well replace it just to be safe.

 

Btw, cold is normal for the low pressure line. The high pressure line is hot.

 

replace it.

 

I would say for the long term - replace it. I think the crushed line in the refrigerant circuit will create a problem. From the pictures I can't tell exactly which specific line that is but perhaps this diagram will help you find the correct replacement part: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-25

I think it is Part No. 1

 

It's actually Part #6... thanks for the recommendations! I do not want to risk ruining a $1300 compressor...

 

Also, it's time to invest in some jack stands that mate to the jacking points or some other method to ensure the car doesn't fall off the jack stands in the future.

 

Good point and I wholeheartedly recommend the ESCO jack stands.

 

Agreed... but it was mostly a misalignment from the process I followed... now that I have Semi solid engine mounts, I plan to jack from the rear point on each side to get each front stands in place under the designated points, then jack under central lug near engine on rear to set both rear jacks on designated points... that should prevent the rocking and rotating dance it did while I tried to do each rear stand individually by jacking under the suspension cross member points... the new semi solids should be fine taking those forces I was afraid to apply to fluid filled OEM engine mounts.

 

A lift would sure be nice, wouldn't it? *sigh*...

 

You can lift the whole rear by jacking at the middle of the rear subframe member provided your jack has a reasonably wide pad to spread the load. Jacking the engine to lift the car puts a lot of unnecessary stress on the engine brace and the engine casing.

The brace is designed to hold the weight of the engine (~500lb) and not for supporting the weight of the whole rear (~2,000lb).

 

I hear ya, but at least that engine carrier is steel... I try to take a "lesser evil" path in cases like this (no factory designed central jacking point)... jacking on a cast aluminum cross member not designed for forces in that direction feels like the "greater evil" of the two options... or maybe I need to put the jack stands under the uni-body somewhere and leave the jacking points for jacking only... hmmm, damn I really need a lift or Jack point stands or something...

Not trying to turn this into a "how to jack our car" thread...

 

Steel yes but it's only attached to the engine by a few small bolts. Cast aluminum yes but so is the rest of the rear suspension frame so I'm not sure which is the greater evil. Anyways, not trying to debate, just try to point out an alternative.

 

These work great! Use them on both my 928 and 996. I have both 3 and 6 ton jack stands so can get her about 24 inches in the air.

www.liftbars.com

 

You make good points Ashai.

Liftbars are interesting...