Apologies for somewhat reviving a dead thread, but came across it in a panic search.

I had the bright idea to improve my headlights using the 3M kit. I first tried with an orbital polisher, but that made things worse before it made them better (scratches etc). Then I started polishing using a drill. Now I got to a point where I have several "hot spots" on the lens. I'm curious what I'm doing wrong and where I should go from here. Basically, I'm heeding the warnings about not spending too much time in any one spot and about not applying too much pressure; it takes me probably 3 seconds to go from one edge to the other. The lens also never really "fogs up" like 3M says. Maybe I'm going too fast?...

Any advice on what I should do? I'm in Japan - so Dr. Headlight isn't going to be an option for me. I'd still prefer to DIY it, but not sure if I'm making things worse or not.

Any help welcome. Thanks!

iJEXgTCl.jpg

 

Suggest you PM Gator996, as if you read the preceeding posts, it sounds like he's done these for other folks before. Sounds like yours can be returned to "good-as-new," but it might require a professional and cost a few coins (but much less expensive than replacement).

 

I think what you see going on with your "hot spots" is that you've gone through the clear-coat and reached the plastic of the actual lens. You haven't ruined anything, but now you've got two different surfaces (lens and clear-coat) that you're trying to polish to the same shine - which will never happen. I think what the "pro's" are doing is totally removing the clear-coat, polishing the lens to a brilliant finish and then applying a new clear-coat or film. Obviously, this is the correct procedure, but it's a little scary for someone who hasn't done it before - especially when you're working on a light unit that going to cost you $500 - $1000 if you ruing it Good luck with it!

 

I think what's freaking me out is the fact that despite spending some time on the other areas, it doesn't appear that anything is actually happening there. Like, I don't feel like the UV coat is in any way disappearing. I don't know if my discs are worn out or simply insufficiently strong, maybe?

*scratches head*

 

I think you should read this entire thread....some good hints on polishing the headlights https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ed-yellow.html

 

Pseudo Nim
have a look at this,

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=851...+restorationit

It may help you understand, i think the bit you are missing is the lights will have to get totally cloudy looking (you will think they are ruined) before they get better, and to stop heat a random orbital polisher is best on slowest speed, a drill can be used but more care is required. good luck

or this

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t...+light&start=0

or this

http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t...t=polish+light

 

you can sand the edges with wet and dry paper by hand, if coating/damage is not going then wet&dry is worn or not course enough to remove damage

 

Thanks ... the problem I'm having is that I do understand they're supposed to get cloudy, but I'm not getting to that point at all Basically, running the drill with the P500 disc over the lens does _absolutely nothing_ - it definitely got scratched up more than it was so far, but not enough to call it "cloudy" (as in my pic). And now it won't go better or worse, just kind of stays in that state.

 

Use ample amounts of wAter while sanding, the milky colored water is a good thing. I've used the 3m kits with great success, the key is you really have to sand down aggressively to give you a consistent opaqueness. When your done sanding with proper grits light will be cloudy it is only when you use the cutting compound when the lights actually clear up.

 

try 320 wet&dry paper but remember the lower number papers are, the rougher, so more work to get back shiney.
also use loads of soapy water in a circular motion by hand see how you go.
i have an electric polisher which is worth its weight in gold
you can polish everything, car, caravan, boat & headlights! very easily then.
not expensive but far better than a drill
LINK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/17183...s=true&ff13=80

 

I've every tool, but I guess I'm too dumb to use it properly

I have an orbital polisher, but the 3M pads are too small for it. So I'm stuck using the drill, I guess, since I don't have the impression that I can use the 500grit ones to rip off the UV coating by hand...

 

by hand i feel you will need at least 320 or you will get nowhere fast,
do not be frightened it will all polish back up, but you must use rough enough paper to get it cloudy, only then are you actually removing the surface, and getting back to new plastic ready for polish.
if i was round the cormer i would come and bring my Das polisher,
but i am in UK

 

Haha thanks... appreciate it. Guess I'll give it another go, this time with some water!

So am I understanding correctly that, at least, those "heat spots" should become bigger, as that's the real "underlayer"?

 

Definately soapy water!! loads of it , keep washing your paper and the debris away, washing up liquid, soapy water is best its called 'fairy liquid' (honest) in the uk!!
this lubricates the process ans stops hot spots!
have you not used soapy water

 

Nope, 3M instructions don't mention soapy water until about grit 1000