Alternator-starter cable replacement simplified
10-01-2016, 09:30 PM
#32
I have means of making such cables. This one looks simple enough, maybe I should make my own is the factory ones are of such poor design that they keep failing.
Is there a writeup somewhere on R&R of the cable?
10-01-2016, 11:30 PM
#33
Drifting
Heat and oxygen is my guess.
10-02-2016, 09:43 AM
#36
Drifting
10-02-2016, 10:54 AM
#38
Of course, at some level, this is what causes everything to eventually decay, but why is this cable failing so much more than others? Insufficient gauge? Poor crimping (ie current bump or spike in one location)? Poor quality materials? Or most likely, dissimilar metals (poor material selection) that results in galvanic corrosion, exacerbated by the current and heat.
From the pictures, it looks like it would be easy enough to use two separate cables rather than the complicated piece with two different gauges connected to the same lug.
My 00 cabby is exhibiting the usual low voltage when the AC and other accoutrements are turned on, and weak starting. Im going to look at replacing with some higher-gauge (lower numerical) and two separate cables to see if I can make it a) cheaper, b) lower resistance and c) last longer.
Also, along the same lines, has anyone used one of these? 240amp direct replacement. You can never have enough amps....
From the pictures, it looks like it would be easy enough to use two separate cables rather than the complicated piece with two different gauges connected to the same lug.
My 00 cabby is exhibiting the usual low voltage when the AC and other accoutrements are turned on, and weak starting. Im going to look at replacing with some higher-gauge (lower numerical) and two separate cables to see if I can make it a) cheaper, b) lower resistance and c) last longer.
Also, along the same lines, has anyone used one of these? 240amp direct replacement. You can never have enough amps....
10-03-2016, 02:28 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
they should have used shrink tubing with wax to seal the ends.
06-12-2017, 08:03 PM
#40
Old thread, but I just used the hot water trick and it was very easy. I was careful enough and was able to save the original cable plastic end also. Mine had zero corrosion and looked fine ('99 cabriolet). I did not remove the alternator either. The alternator cable attachment nut is tricky to get to, but a 13mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet worked fine. I changed the starter motor while I was in there.
06-12-2017, 08:17 PM
#41
^^ same here. Just went through this last week & used the hot water trick - worked very well. I did remove the alternator, which was an exciting way to wear out my hands. Unfortunately, I pulled one of the vacuum lines out of the 3-way connection point. So the 996 is resting until I can get it cleaned up.
06-12-2017, 08:38 PM
#42
I mentioned that I replaced my starter, and in fact that was the reason I replaced the cable, slow to no hot starts with the occasional screeching starter motor.
The new starter came from Amazon; brand new Bosch # SR0808N, with part number 996 604 103 01; $207 2 day delivery. Same exact starter that Porsche used, but $1,000 cheaper than a Porsche branded one.
** Update - I dissected my old starter, the screeching is caused by a dried out bearing in the end of the starter furthest from the flywheel. maybe when hot this dried up bearing creates enough friction to prevent the starter from spinning? Maybe it's a bad cable, hard to say.**
The new starter came from Amazon; brand new Bosch # SR0808N, with part number 996 604 103 01; $207 2 day delivery. Same exact starter that Porsche used, but $1,000 cheaper than a Porsche branded one.
** Update - I dissected my old starter, the screeching is caused by a dried out bearing in the end of the starter furthest from the flywheel. maybe when hot this dried up bearing creates enough friction to prevent the starter from spinning? Maybe it's a bad cable, hard to say.**
Last edited by Cefalu; 06-13-2017 at 12:31 AM. Reason: Update
thanks again for the tip!
