Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

Alternator-starter cable replacement simplified

Old 04-26-2015, 10:47 AM
  #1  
964polar
Racer
Thread Starter
 
964polar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Alternator-starter cable replacement simplified

Yesterday I managed to do this quite easy. By removing the plus-point plastic box from the cable I avoided loosening the AC pump. I cracked the old one since it will not be used. The new one was removed carefully by heating the plastic in hot water. This makes it soft enough to simplify the removal without damage. Do not put the whole cable in water, only the box.
Attached Images  

Last edited by 964polar; 04-26-2015 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Image problem
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
Old 04-26-2015, 10:50 AM
  #2  
964polar
Racer
Thread Starter
 
964polar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Another image on the plus point cable box removed
Attached Images  
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
Old 04-26-2015, 01:25 PM
  #3  
Ahsai
Nordschleife Master
 
Ahsai's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,328
Received 62 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

Great idea! I did try that to remove the plastic box (without heating it up) but gave up in the end afraid of breaking it. Using hot water should soften it enough.
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
Old 04-27-2015, 01:24 AM
  #4  
islaTurbine
Drifting
 
islaTurbine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: The ATL
Posts: 2,649
Received 394 Likes on 253 Posts
Default

I'm getting ready to do this fix.

How did you crack the old one? Did you have to mess with the power steering pump?
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
Old 04-27-2015, 03:42 AM
  #5  
964polar
Racer
Thread Starter
 
964polar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

No messing with the AC-pump, this was the whole purpose. You can detach the old plus point box on the old cable with a screw driver, it will pop off and maybe crack. But a new one is already on the new cable. Be careful with that one instead.
Old 04-27-2015, 12:41 PM
  #6  
islaTurbine
Drifting
 
islaTurbine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: The ATL
Posts: 2,649
Received 394 Likes on 253 Posts
Default

This tip worked great. Thank you.
Old 04-27-2015, 01:46 PM
  #7  
964polar
Racer
Thread Starter
 
964polar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Glad it worked
Old 04-27-2015, 05:04 PM
  #8  
JMLavoie
Racer
 
JMLavoie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Neat idea, 964. Tack sà mycket ... and for sharing!
Old 04-27-2015, 07:22 PM
  #9  
964polar
Racer
Thread Starter
 
964polar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sweden
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Happy to contribute😃
Old 04-27-2015, 07:42 PM
  #10  
knfeparty
Race Car
 
knfeparty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 33 Likes on 23 Posts
Default

I've been putting off this update because of the apparent install pain. Will have to reconsider now.
Old 06-07-2016, 11:08 PM
  #11  
rolex11
Pro
 
rolex11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Aventura, FL
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

oldish thread, but want to clarify:

So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?

Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
Old 06-07-2016, 11:27 PM
  #12  
Ahsai
Nordschleife Master
 
Ahsai's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,328
Received 62 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

It saves you the hassle of unbolting and sliding the a/c compressor out. Most find the front (front of car) a/c comp bolt challenging to remove.

Originally Posted by rolex11
oldish thread, but want to clarify:

So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?

Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
Old 06-08-2016, 12:47 AM
  #13  
rolex11
Pro
 
rolex11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Aventura, FL
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

So air box, belt, alternator, still need to come out, but a/c comp. can stay in, correct?

So I'm slow...
Old 06-08-2016, 12:53 AM
  #14  
islaTurbine
Drifting
 
islaTurbine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: The ATL
Posts: 2,649
Received 394 Likes on 253 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rolex11
So air box, belt, alternator, still need to come out, but a/c comp. can stay in, correct?

So I'm slow...
Correct.
Old 06-08-2016, 01:06 AM
  #15  
rolex11
Pro
 
rolex11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Aventura, FL
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Question...

If I did have this cable problem, which I think I do on my '99 C2 which is now 17 years old and showing the symptoms, would it affect my idling?

I'm thinking maybe since my battery is not always at full strength due to not being charged properly during long trips due to the cable getting hot, it may be causing this annoying intermittent idle issue I can't seems to correct.

The idle issue usually appears when car is fully warmed.

Battery is new, MAF is new, idle air control valve replaced, no apparent vacuum leaks (was tested), oil filler tube not leaking, new oil cap, etc. Done just about everything to try and fix the idle.

Thoughts?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Alternator-starter cable replacement simplified



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:12 AM.