Alternator-starter cable replacement simplified
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Alternator-starter cable replacement simplified
Yesterday I managed to do this quite easy. By removing the plus-point plastic box from the cable I avoided loosening the AC pump. I cracked the old one since it will not be used. The new one was removed carefully by heating the plastic in hot water. This makes it soft enough to simplify the removal without damage. Do not put the whole cable in water, only the box.
Last edited by 964polar; 04-26-2015 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Image problem
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
#4
Drifting
I'm getting ready to do this fix.
How did you crack the old one? Did you have to mess with the power steering pump?
How did you crack the old one? Did you have to mess with the power steering pump?
The following users liked this post:
The Daddio (12-22-2022)
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
No messing with the AC-pump, this was the whole purpose. You can detach the old plus point box on the old cable with a screw driver, it will pop off and maybe crack. But a new one is already on the new cable. Be careful with that one instead.
#6
Drifting
This tip worked great. Thank you.
Trending Topics
#11
oldish thread, but want to clarify:
So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?
Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?
Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
#12
It saves you the hassle of unbolting and sliding the a/c compressor out. Most find the front (front of car) a/c comp bolt challenging to remove.
oldish thread, but want to clarify:
So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?
Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
So replacing this cable with this "hot water" trick requires nothing to be removed/rotated/lifted/etc.?
Just thread both ends thru and attach? or does the "hot water" way just eliminate a few of the required remove/rotate/lift requirements?
#14
Drifting
#15
Question...
If I did have this cable problem, which I think I do on my '99 C2 which is now 17 years old and showing the symptoms, would it affect my idling?
I'm thinking maybe since my battery is not always at full strength due to not being charged properly during long trips due to the cable getting hot, it may be causing this annoying intermittent idle issue I can't seems to correct.
The idle issue usually appears when car is fully warmed.
Battery is new, MAF is new, idle air control valve replaced, no apparent vacuum leaks (was tested), oil filler tube not leaking, new oil cap, etc. Done just about everything to try and fix the idle.
Thoughts?
If I did have this cable problem, which I think I do on my '99 C2 which is now 17 years old and showing the symptoms, would it affect my idling?
I'm thinking maybe since my battery is not always at full strength due to not being charged properly during long trips due to the cable getting hot, it may be causing this annoying intermittent idle issue I can't seems to correct.
The idle issue usually appears when car is fully warmed.
Battery is new, MAF is new, idle air control valve replaced, no apparent vacuum leaks (was tested), oil filler tube not leaking, new oil cap, etc. Done just about everything to try and fix the idle.
Thoughts?