Slippery Slope
#17
Race Director
#18
Race Director
In addition to the deep sump pan and baffle upgrades, some folks do this:
http://lnengineering.com/hpde-2-quar...ersal-kit.html
The web site of a very well-known Porsche engine builder offers the following sage advice specifically for the M96 engine:
Those that want to keep their engine alive on the track should couple a proper race oil with higher volume scavenge pumps, better oil control baffles and a higher volume oil filter.
http://lnengineering.com/hpde-2-quar...ersal-kit.html
The web site of a very well-known Porsche engine builder offers the following sage advice specifically for the M96 engine:
Those that want to keep their engine alive on the track should couple a proper race oil with higher volume scavenge pumps, better oil control baffles and a higher volume oil filter.
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Now you guys have me scared....do I even put my car on the track without an oil baffle upgrade?
Haven't paid just yet.....
I don't plan to drive crazy on the track, but I like to have fun!
Haven't paid just yet.....
I don't plan to drive crazy on the track, but I like to have fun!
#20
Dot legal race rubber and long sweeping bends could starve the oil just enough but otherwise you should be OK. Might wanna do an oil change before and after as well if you're paranoid.
Also you may be smoking depending on the state of your AOS.
Either way, I would put that microscope to use after your session.
Also you may be smoking depending on the state of your AOS.
Either way, I would put that microscope to use after your session.
#21
Rennlist Member
You most likely will not sustain high G long enough to cause oil starvation in an autocross.
Seem significant discount, depending on parts needed, if you go to Canton directly
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...&category=2410
Seem significant discount, depending on parts needed, if you go to Canton directly
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...&category=2410
#23
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
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I wouldn't think twice about tracking with street tires.
#24
#25
Rennlist Member
Also, if you get the deep sump kit, be sure that you install the sump pickup extension. There was a thread on here from a couple of years ago where someone had an engine failure because he installed the deep sump, but then did not install the pickup extension. So, instead of fixing the problem with the oil starvation, it exacerbated it.
#26
Also, if you get the deep sump kit, be sure that you install the sump pickup extension. There was a thread on here from a couple of years ago where someone had an engine failure because he installed the deep sump, but then did not install the pickup extension. So, instead of fixing the problem with the oil starvation, it exacerbated it.
#27
Three Wheelin'
We ran with lots of stock 996's, 986's and 997's this weekend. Fairly flat track. Nobody had an issue and I never did after multiple events prior to my baffle upgrade. But, starvation could happen anywhere at any time on any track I suppose.
I spoke to a guy that lost his motor in his stock Cayman at Daytona due to starvation. He dropped in a nicely upgraded track motor, went back to Daytona and crashed it. So there is always that guy. Not sure if he is still married or not.
I spoke to a guy that lost his motor in his stock Cayman at Daytona due to starvation. He dropped in a nicely upgraded track motor, went back to Daytona and crashed it. So there is always that guy. Not sure if he is still married or not.
#28
Race Director
So THAT'S who has been driving up prices on M96 cores...
#29
Mainly on long left hander high speed corners with high enough G's(mainly race rubber) that will starve banks 4-6. Adding second oil scavenging pump and the appropriate crossover tube will greatly reduce this. This was a ROW option for both 3.4 and 3.6 motors. We unfortunately didn't get that option as Porsche assumed us dumb Americans only like to go fast in a straight line or pu$$y foot it around corners.
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So last night I put the front track pads on the car and bleed the front brakes.
So is it normal to remove the calipers to change the pads? I thought this would take seconds with the Brembo brakes....but it took me a while on the first side because of the anti-squeal pads attached to the pad. I ended up removing the caliper to get the brake pads out.
The track pads had the anti-squeal devices in the box that I received them in, but they were no longer attached to the pads. I put them in the calipers, put the calipers back on, then just inserted the pads back into the calipers and buttoned everything up.
When I un-do everything, I'll have to take the calipers back off to get the street pads back in.
I will do the rears tonight, do I need to take the calipers off for those? The rear track pads have no anti-squeal device, but I saw in the manual that there is something for the rears, more like a little star?
So is it normal to remove the calipers to change the pads? I thought this would take seconds with the Brembo brakes....but it took me a while on the first side because of the anti-squeal pads attached to the pad. I ended up removing the caliper to get the brake pads out.
The track pads had the anti-squeal devices in the box that I received them in, but they were no longer attached to the pads. I put them in the calipers, put the calipers back on, then just inserted the pads back into the calipers and buttoned everything up.
When I un-do everything, I'll have to take the calipers back off to get the street pads back in.
I will do the rears tonight, do I need to take the calipers off for those? The rear track pads have no anti-squeal device, but I saw in the manual that there is something for the rears, more like a little star?