Lower Temp Thermostat
#61
Drifting
I have a LN low temp Thermostat. I do not track my car, but I do run it's legs out. My issue with the OEM thermostat and the cooling system as a whole in my 996 was that after spirited drives, if I was stuck in traffic for any amount of time, my temp gauge would climb to higher than one would like levels. My options were to add a third radiator (which I still might do) or change out the thermostat when I was having my engine rebuilt. I chose the thermostat and my car does not get nearly as hot as it had previously. Yes my radiators are good and yes my fans work. This really seems like a silly argument, but on this forum, it doesn't surprise me one bit. As they say, opinions are like ********, and everyone has one.. including me.
#62
Rennlist Member
Alright peeps. I know this is going to turn into a sh*t fest about low temp thermostat real soon but here it goes.
I just did water pump, coolant flush, and LTTS on Thursday and drove the car to Vegas. The verdict: LOVE IT!!!
I feel like the engine warms up more gradually and smoothly and the temperature really stays more consistent. On the highways, the needle was smack in the middle even a tad below at times. All this at 106 F temperatures. I highly recommend it. Money well spent.
I just did water pump, coolant flush, and LTTS on Thursday and drove the car to Vegas. The verdict: LOVE IT!!!
I feel like the engine warms up more gradually and smoothly and the temperature really stays more consistent. On the highways, the needle was smack in the middle even a tad below at times. All this at 106 F temperatures. I highly recommend it. Money well spent.
#63
Alright peeps. I know this is going to turn into a sh*t fest about low temp thermostat real soon but here it goes.
I just did water pump, coolant flush, and LTTS on Thursday and drove the car to Vegas. The verdict: LOVE IT!!!
I feel like the engine warms up more gradually and smoothly and the temperature really stays more consistent. On the highways, the needle was smack in the middle even a tad below at times. All this at 106 F temperatures. I highly recommend it. Money well spent.
I just did water pump, coolant flush, and LTTS on Thursday and drove the car to Vegas. The verdict: LOVE IT!!!
I feel like the engine warms up more gradually and smoothly and the temperature really stays more consistent. On the highways, the needle was smack in the middle even a tad below at times. All this at 106 F temperatures. I highly recommend it. Money well spent.
#64
Rennlist Member
#65
#66
Rennlist Member
Also let me correct you. I have listed it for sale not I'm trying to sell it. Subtle difference but an important one.
#67
Drifting
To tell you the truth, I've given it a thought at least a few times to just take it off the market and keep it for as far as I can. We'll see what happens in that department....
Also let me correct you. I have listed it for sale not I'm trying to sell it. Subtle difference but an important one.
Also let me correct you. I have listed it for sale not I'm trying to sell it. Subtle difference but an important one.
#68
So not trying to hijack the thread, but this question seems to be germane to this discussion:
If the thermostat is stuck closed will the radiators in the front ever get hot, and will the fans not come on?
I got a flashing temp light which according to the and engine fan inop message, which according to the Bentley manual means low fluid - not - or inop fan and it runs fine. The engine temp doesn't peg but it has been cool.
My radiators are cool to the touch and the fans aren't running in the front when I get the message.
If the thermostat is stuck closed will the radiators in the front ever get hot, and will the fans not come on?
I got a flashing temp light which according to the and engine fan inop message, which according to the Bentley manual means low fluid - not - or inop fan and it runs fine. The engine temp doesn't peg but it has been cool.
My radiators are cool to the touch and the fans aren't running in the front when I get the message.
#69
Race Director
So not trying to hijack the thread, but this question seems to be germane to this discussion:
If the thermostat is stuck closed will the radiators in the front ever get hot, and will the fans not come on?
I got a flashing temp light which according to the and engine fan inop message, which according to the Bentley manual means low fluid - not - or inop fan and it runs fine. The engine temp doesn't peg but it has been cool.
My radiators are cool to the touch and the fans aren't running in the front when I get the message.
If the thermostat is stuck closed will the radiators in the front ever get hot, and will the fans not come on?
I got a flashing temp light which according to the and engine fan inop message, which according to the Bentley manual means low fluid - not - or inop fan and it runs fine. The engine temp doesn't peg but it has been cool.
My radiators are cool to the touch and the fans aren't running in the front when I get the message.
If you suspect a stuck T-stat you should not delay in getting the car flat bedded to a qualified shop and have this diagnosed and dealt with.
If the meaning of the flashing light is low coolant why not when the car is cold open the cap and check? Be aware that the coolant tank will become discolored over time and what from the outside you think is the coolant level is just a water stain. I have found to really be sure of the level of coolant in the tank I have to remove the cap -- wehn the engine is dead cold! -- and remove the screen and stick a wooden dowel or something down and visually confirm where the level is. If it is low you can add distilled water to bring the level up. Once when the light came on with my Boxster I added a gallon.
If the level is low and there are no leak signs -- to really be sure you have to get the car in the air so you can check for coolant leaks from under the car as it is the areas under the car most often coolant leaks appear, it could be the cap is leaking.
In the case of my Boxster, at least once, it was the cap that was leaking, letting vapor escape. Another time it proved to be the coolant tank had a split in it.
#70
The coolant level is fine. So that is why I question the coolant issue. I looked at some other threads for the temperature at which the thermostat is supposed to open. Since it is winter, the car has not gotten "hot" just barley over 180 according to the gauge. I am going to check it on the AC display and see what it is reading. My understanding is the thermostat is supposed to open somewhere over 180 correct?
Secondly the engine fan comes on and stays on, I think this might be where the sensor fell against the engine. I read that someone else's did that. I am just not sure what I am looking for.
Thanks for the assistance
Secondly the engine fan comes on and stays on, I think this might be where the sensor fell against the engine. I read that someone else's did that. I am just not sure what I am looking for.
Thanks for the assistance
Last edited by jrrhdmust; 02-21-2016 at 10:01 PM. Reason: add a note
#71
The coolant level is fine. So that is why I question the coolant issue. I looked at some other threads for the temperature at which the thermostat is supposed to open. Since it is winter, the car has not gotten "hot" just barley over 180 according to the gauge. I am going to check it on the AC display and see what it is reading. My understanding is the thermostat is supposed to open somewhere over 180 correct?
Secondly the engine fan comes on and stays on, I think this might be where the sensor fell against the engine. I read that someone else's did that. I am just not sure what I am looking for.
Thanks for the assistance
Secondly the engine fan comes on and stays on, I think this might be where the sensor fell against the engine. I read that someone else's did that. I am just not sure what I am looking for.
Thanks for the assistance
You should also see high temperature on the gauge.
If you are sure the car is not overheating, it is possible that one of the temp sensor is out. does the car idle high when the light/message comes on?
#72
The temp gauge doesn't go above something like 200, I can short the front fans into running.
I will check the temp sensor that seems to make the most sense, but it still doesn't explain why the front radiators aren't getting hot...
I will check the temp sensor that seems to make the most sense, but it still doesn't explain why the front radiators aren't getting hot...
#73
Radiators are not getting hot because the thermostat is not opening......this is a critical condition, I personally would replace the 'stat (and waterpump whilst I'm in there )
#74
Race Director
The coolant level is fine. So that is why I question the coolant issue. I looked at some other threads for the temperature at which the thermostat is supposed to open. Since it is winter, the car has not gotten "hot" just barley over 180 according to the gauge. I am going to check it on the AC display and see what it is reading. My understanding is the thermostat is supposed to open somewhere over 180 correct?
Secondly the engine fan comes on and stays on, I think this might be where the sensor fell against the engine. I read that someone else's did that. I am just not sure what I am looking for.
Thanks for the assistance
Secondly the engine fan comes on and stays on, I think this might be where the sensor fell against the engine. I read that someone else's did that. I am just not sure what I am looking for.
Thanks for the assistance
The temperature at which the fans come on low speed can vary from MY to MY (possibly) but my observation with my Boxster (and I think with my Turbo too, but you know I can't recall checking the Turbo) is the fans come on low speed when the coolant temp gets to 212F and switch off when the coolant temp drops to 205F. If the coolant temp continues to rise the fans switch to high speed when the coolant temp reaches 216F. The fans stay at high speed until the coolant temp drops to 205F.
If the A/C is switched on the fans run all the time. The fans can be switched to high speed under some special conditions, something to do with if the A/C requires max. cooling.
Depending upon the MY you may not be able to view the coolant temp via the heater/AC display.
What I use is an OBD2 code reader/data viewer that I connect to the OBD2 port and obtain various engine and engine sensor telemetry of interest. Among these is coolant temperature.
If you are sure the T-stat is working ok and the cooling system is working ok and the coolant level good you can test fan operation by driving the car around town -- with the A/C off -- until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. No need to get all crazy just drive at legal speeds in residential areas.
Back home in the driveway then raise the engine speed to say 1500 and hold. After a while the coolant will get hot enough to trigger the fans to come on at least at low speed. You can have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer hooked up and observe the coolant temperature -- or use the heater/AC display if that feature is avaiable in your car. When the coolant temperature reaches 212F the fans should be on. You can let the engine speed return to idle and let the fans continue to run and observe the coolant temperautre fall and then the fans shut off when the temp drops to 205F.
#75
Great info here
I was thinking about that LN low temp thermostat or a 3rd radiator kit for cooling purposes in Florida's hot summer. Any thoughts on this as I am new to the porsche world. Thanks, michael