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Buying a little used 996 Cab - need advice

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Old 11-19-2014, 06:47 PM
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GDI
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I am not worried about having a deal go south in this particular situation, but I appreciate the tips. Right now the biggest thing is getting the car back on the road and making sure it is properly assessed - so we know exactly where things stand with it.
Old 11-20-2014, 06:09 PM
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An update, and, yes, pics.

I had the car trucked to the shop today, so I got a good look at it and the paperwork. First, it is a C4, I had thought it was a C2, and according to the window sticker it is Meridian Metallic (kind of champagne, IMO) with the "Comfort Package", "Advanced Technic Package", turbo look wheels, and leather seats and wheel, and hardtop. That's good.

The bad part is that it looks like mice got to it - they jumped out of the car when we were taking it off the truck. Our fingers are crossed that the damage is light!





Old 11-20-2014, 06:13 PM
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5CHN3LL
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The C4 has the more solid chassis anyway. Rip out the front wheel drive stuff if you want a C2 and get the benefits of the stiffer chassis.

Good luck with the mouse stuff...hopefully they were just nesting there with stuff they got elsewhere, and not with wire insulation.
Old 11-21-2014, 07:17 AM
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How stiff a chassis is on the C4 against the C2? When I jack from front or rear side jacking point, both wheels lift off the floor on that jacked up side of my 99 C2. How stiff does he want the chassis to be I wonder?
Old 11-21-2014, 09:41 AM
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Default Probable re-comissioning expenses

My 2cents...here's my list of likely re-commissioning costs for a 40K/10+ year old car that has sat unused/unloved for 2 years:
    Oil/coolant drains and fill = $600

    Water pump and coolant tank replacement = $750

    New tires = $1200

    New battery = $200

    Periodic mtnce., like the 60K items = serpentine belt, plugs, +misc. filters = $600

    Well, so far we're into our check book for about $4000 and have not even allowed for "while we're in here" stuff, or an IMSB and clutch replacement.

    Frankly, I don't think such a car should command an "as is" price higher than the "low teens".
    Old 11-21-2014, 12:39 PM
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    GDI
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    5CHN3LL - I think I can live with the C4 - it snows on occasion in Connecticut. So, I'll live it as is.

    reniluca- $200 for a battery! I should have put one in myself for $80! As for the tires - they are in good condition, I think they will last a couple of years, also the shop said the brake rotors are likely fine - just some surface rust. Sounds like I'll need the rest of the items you mentioned. I asked for a PPI just so we know where everything stands, and if it is good to go for a LNE bearing, we'll do that. Right now, I am most worried about the rodent situation- that could slow things down considerably and be costly.

    I know we'll be shocked at the bill. But, we want it well sorted and ready to go - deferred maintenance stinks really!

    Thanks for the tips.
    Old 11-21-2014, 12:47 PM
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    5CHN3LL
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    I don't know how much the extra sheet metal that houses the front-wheel-drive diff and components adds, but I do know that my C4 almost always pops the inboard wheel off the ground when I drive up any driveway apron. The same locations, in my Boxster, didn't typically result in a wheel losing ground contact, but I've never driven a C2, so I can't offer a direct C2 vs. C4 comparison.

    I can say that the C4 is the stiffest car I've ever driven, and it makes my Corvette, even with added bracing, feel absolutely floppy in comparison.

    Originally Posted by Hurdigurdiman
    How stiff a chassis is on the C4 against the C2? When I jack from front or rear side jacking point, both wheels lift off the floor on that jacked up side of my 99 C2. How stiff does he want the chassis to be I wonder?
    Old 11-21-2014, 04:44 PM
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    You'll really only notice the added stiffness on the track and even only if you remove the AWD from the front.

    C4 had to be made stiffer to deal with the AWD components. GT3 used the same C4 chassis because it was a race car. None of it is detectable on the streets.

    My C2 also lifts front and rear easily with one jack point.
    Old 12-11-2014, 06:42 PM
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    GDI
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    An update on the car - a couple of good news items -1, the original IMSB was dual row (and in good shape) so I hope for that to be good for 75,000 miles (the mechanic estimated), and 2, the mice had just nested on top of the engine - no damage.

    The only items left to sort are the brakes - they need to be cleaned at least - (hopefully nothing more) and the tires had flat spots from sitting for years - those may be ok with some miles. Getting close to getting it my garage....
    Old 12-11-2014, 06:55 PM
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    Double check the IMS. As far as I know, all 2001's had single row. All 99's had the double row and some of the 00's were mixed.

    How can you tell what bearing it had without pulling it out?
    Old 12-11-2014, 07:01 PM
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    GDI
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    Originally Posted by dgjks6
    Double check the IMS. As far as I know, all 2001's had single row. All 99's had the double row and some of the 00's were mixed.

    How can you tell what bearing it had without pulling it out?
    Actually, I wasn't really that surprised that my 2001 had the dual row; I had looked the vin up on the settlement site and it wasn't covered, I figured that may be why.

    The mechanic told me it was dual row and I trust that is correct because he already upgraded it.
    Old 12-11-2014, 07:18 PM
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    Originally Posted by GDI
    Actually, I wasn't really that surprised that my 2001 had the dual row; I had looked the vin up on the settlement site and it wasn't covered, I figured that may be why.

    The mechanic told me it was dual row and I trust that is correct because he already upgraded it.

    Great! Now lets see some more exterior pics. It looks silver on my computer.

    Oh - and check and clean all the drains before you drive it in the rain. I learned that one the hard way.



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