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I will be looking at a 2001 C2 Cab this weekend and need some advice on checking it out. This is a car that a close acquaintance has had since new, but it hasn't been started in 2 years (has about 40,000 miles).
I was wondering if I could get some advice on trying to start it up and drive it. The car has not had the IMS fixed, or any major mechanical work (some little things have been fixed - like alternator, mouse damage , etc..). Is there anything I really need to be cautious about before trying to put a battery in (or charge the old one) and start it up? I plan on getting it to an independent to do a PPI, but I'd like to drive it there.
So, any big risk in trying to fire it up? I haven't read of many "barn fresh" 996's, and I just want to be safe....
Unless the fuel was treated, it's probably bad. I'd drain and replace the fuel at least before trying to fire it up.
M96 experts, will enough oil seep into the engine over that much time to require clearing the cylinders before firing it up?
Depending on the environment it's stored in, the brake fluid may have absorbed a fair amount of water and need replacement. This wouldn't be an issue for first start, but you'd definitely want to do it before getting the brakes good and hot.
Kromdom - The engine was running fine before it was parked. The owner had been stranded earlier when the alternator went and lost trust in the car and some time later stopped driving it.
5CHN3LL - I need to ask if the fuel was treated - it is possible, because it was not driven in winter so that was possibly the procedure the owner followed each year. If it has gone bad, would it damage the fuel/injection system to start it (if it starts)? I never thought about the oil seepage possibility.
Old fuel could cause flakes/chunks of varnish to plug up the fuel filter and the fuel already in the lines past the filter could clog the injectors.
It might start, probably will not run good, and the longer you run it with the stale fuel the worse chance of clogging and damage.
At the very least, empty the tank and start with fresh fuel.
I would be just as concerned about the prior mouse damage. Make sure you understand what the damage was and how it was repaired to be certain you are not buying a rats nest of wiring problems.
As others have said, figure on servicing nearly everything with fluids/liquids. Oil, brake, possibly coolant (water pump for sure), It is at the mileage that it needs a good servicing and so figure plugs, belt, filters, etc. too.
Could be a good find, but don't let excitement cause you to look past the issues that need attention.
Budget accordingly when negotiating the price.
Its sad to hear of these instances of cars left unattended to their sometimes severe detriment.
Thanks Spokayman - the prior mouse damage was repaired correctly at the servicing dealer, so, as long as they haven't gotten to it again (owner has been occasionally checking it and putting deterrent in the strategic places, so we're remain positive till we learn they're back). And I'll heed the warning about the fuel - if it wasn't treated, I'll definitely pass on starting it till its cleaned out.
I am pretty sure this will be a good deal, and the seller will want to put it straight...
If it was mine, Because it stood for 2 years, I wouldn't even consider a PPI so soon. I would read everything there is to know about the 2001 model. I would price up everything I could as preventative DIY maintenance. ie:-all fluids including gas. Brake pads, plugs, belt, filters, coolant, even engine mounts and tires and new battery & figure total cost into the deal. Check carefully that the top and alarm system is working correctly. If it has the matching hard top, better still. Then run it to the PPI guy. Tell him only to check for the things I haven't been able to address. Because of the cost of parts, If I could get it for $15000 tops then I would get it. If not, I would look elsewhere.
Before to get the car tow :
- Did the owner negotiate (as is) price with you?
- When you're taking the car to the shop and if the car runs and damage is created, who will be responsible? you? or the owner? (Get that in paper)
-If everything runs ok change All fluids : brake, oil, transmission, serpentine belt, spark plugs and tires, pay extra and get the brakes inspected, at 40000 miles more than likely they need to be changed
Oh and by the way
I am not very worried about trying to figure all the re-commisioning work into the purchase price; the first thing is to get it back on the road and I'll be assured a very fair price. The car is not on the market and is owned by a person who is very close to my family and has just decided that they have no more interest in it.
I am planning to call a local shop today to see what they recommend regarding getting it running safely.
GDI, it sounds like you're very confident that your transaction will go well - but any auto transaction between family and friends has the ability to go south like any other, and in fact, seem more likely to. Getting stuff on paper is a great way to help ensure that you and the current owner are still friends once this car is out of the way.
I won't ever sell cars to family. I won't even GIVE a car to a family member - it's just too likely to wreck Thanksgiving for years to come.
GDI, it sounds like you're very confident that your transaction will go well - but any auto transaction between family and friends has the ability to go south like any other, and in fact, seem more likely to. Getting stuff on paper is a great way to help ensure that you and the current owner are still friends once this car is out of the way.
I won't ever sell cars to family. I won't even GIVE a car to a family member - it's just too likely to wreck Thanksgiving for years to come.
Especially if the current owner bought the 996 new, they may be shocked at "clean retail" value less deferred maintenance value!
11-18-2014, 05:34 PM
Buying a little used 996 Cab - need advice
, etc..). Is there anything I really need to be cautious about before trying to put a battery in (or charge the old one) and start it up? I plan on getting it to an independent to do a PPI, but I'd like to drive it there.
