looking for a hard answer on IMS issue
#1
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So, my '01 996 C4 has had an IMS failure. After combing through the forums I could not get a definitive answer if this demands an engine rebuild or a rebuild is needed after the engine has gone kaput.
So some info, the car has 90k miles on it and the clutch went out. Took it to the Porsche mechanic by my house (whom I don't trust after some disagreements over my 944) and he pulled the oil pan. There were metal leafs in the pan and said the engine is toast.
Now, there is(was) no knocking or ticking in the engine, no service lights have come on, and with the exception of the clutch going out, drove fine. Have I caught problem in time and only need to replace the IMS, or do I really need to rebuild the engine.
So some info, the car has 90k miles on it and the clutch went out. Took it to the Porsche mechanic by my house (whom I don't trust after some disagreements over my 944) and he pulled the oil pan. There were metal leafs in the pan and said the engine is toast.
Now, there is(was) no knocking or ticking in the engine, no service lights have come on, and with the exception of the clutch going out, drove fine. Have I caught problem in time and only need to replace the IMS, or do I really need to rebuild the engine.
#3
Rennlist Member
#4
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Read this thread entirely...:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...howing-up.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...howing-up.html
Flush the oil, check it frequently, listen for problems. Rebuilding it before it blows up doesn't cost much less than rebuilding it after it blows up.
I have another mechanic to look at about 30 minutes away and he does engine rebuilds. After a month or so I'll start getting "just in case" quotes.
If I get another year or 2 out of it then I'll be happy. Thanks for the advice
#7
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Thanks for the post. I think that the comments in that forum are the most sensible things I've heard all day. Just a quick synopsis for anyone else looking.
Flush the oil, check it frequently, listen for problems. Rebuilding it before it blows up doesn't cost much less than rebuilding it after it blows up.
I have another mechanic to look at about 30 minutes away and he does engine rebuilds. After a month or so I'll start getting "just in case" quotes.
If I get another year or 2 out of it then I'll be happy. Thanks for the advice
Flush the oil, check it frequently, listen for problems. Rebuilding it before it blows up doesn't cost much less than rebuilding it after it blows up.
I have another mechanic to look at about 30 minutes away and he does engine rebuilds. After a month or so I'll start getting "just in case" quotes.
If I get another year or 2 out of it then I'll be happy. Thanks for the advice
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#8
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Metal in the pan does NOT automatically equal IXX failure or the primary failure. That's the main problem of misdiagnosis that leads to half or a certain percentage of these claims getting falsely propagated on the net and the reason why where we are today with this.
Consider there are over 25 modes of failure of which some can cause collateral damage to the IXX.
One can't simply find metal bits in the pan and ASSume it was the IXX without doing further diagnosis.
Dealerships didn't really have incentives to do this before as it made more sense to just get a replacement motor from the factory.
However since now the motors aren't as widely available, I think more and more shops will actually have to do some good ole deep diagnostic work on these to truly get an accurate assessment on the situation. This should separate out the men from the boys as some clearly would not be capable to carry this out.
Oh gawd, suckered into ANOTHER IXX post twice in 1 day...
Consider there are over 25 modes of failure of which some can cause collateral damage to the IXX.
One can't simply find metal bits in the pan and ASSume it was the IXX without doing further diagnosis.
Dealerships didn't really have incentives to do this before as it made more sense to just get a replacement motor from the factory.
However since now the motors aren't as widely available, I think more and more shops will actually have to do some good ole deep diagnostic work on these to truly get an accurate assessment on the situation. This should separate out the men from the boys as some clearly would not be capable to carry this out.
Oh gawd, suckered into ANOTHER IXX post twice in 1 day...
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#10
Race Director
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So, my '01 996 C4 has had an IMS failure. After combing through the forums I could not get a definitive answer if this demands an engine rebuild or a rebuild is needed after the engine has gone kaput.
So some info, the car has 90k miles on it and the clutch went out. Took it to the Porsche mechanic by my house (whom I don't trust after some disagreements over my 944) and he pulled the oil pan. There were metal leafs in the pan and said the engine is toast.
Now, there is(was) no knocking or ticking in the engine, no service lights have come on, and with the exception of the clutch going out, drove fine. Have I caught problem in time and only need to replace the IMS, or do I really need to rebuild the engine.
So some info, the car has 90k miles on it and the clutch went out. Took it to the Porsche mechanic by my house (whom I don't trust after some disagreements over my 944) and he pulled the oil pan. There were metal leafs in the pan and said the engine is toast.
Now, there is(was) no knocking or ticking in the engine, no service lights have come on, and with the exception of the clutch going out, drove fine. Have I caught problem in time and only need to replace the IMS, or do I really need to rebuild the engine.
First why you would take the car to a mechanic you didn't trust is beyond me.
I have to offer that dropping the pan with no clear reason to do so, without checking with you first, is well, let me say I think your lack of trust in this mechanic is justified.
If you took the car in for a clutch problem with no complaints or issues regarding the engine I'd have to offer the engine is fine.
Now I say this without having seen just what was found in the oil sump. If the tech found oodles of ferrous metal that could very well be from a failing IMS/IMSB.
But I have to tell you that some metal trash in the oil sump is quite common and chances are the stuff has been there since right after the engine was first started and run.
Has the oil filter housing oil/filter element been checked?
If not have this removed and the contents carefully dumped into a *clean* drain pan. What you and your *trusted* tech see or do not see determines what you do next.
If you find scary amounts of metal/trash in the filter then the diagnosis the IMS -- well, something internal in the engine is bad at least -- is correct.
In this case you'll have to turn the car over to a tech you can trust who can properly assess the engine for its suitability for resurrection and can perform this if you decide to go this route.
If you find nothing of any real concern in the oil filter housing oil and filter, then perform an oil/filter service if this service is due on time or miles, or just replace the filter and top up the oil level.
Now if you really want to err on the side of caution after you start the engine and after you have let it idle a while -- always with you remaining very close to the ignition key so you can switch off the engine ASAP if need be -- you can drive the car until the engine is warmed up. Back at the starting point then drop the filter housing and check again for what's in the oil and filter. If you spot more trash, even if it is not scary, then there might be a problem. Your trusted tech can advise you.
The odds are you will not find anything to be worried about.
Just in case, I always advise that if while you are running the engine, as I offered above after installing a new filter or really at any time, if the engine starts acting up, making odd noises, shut off the engine as soon as it is safe to do so and do not attempt to restart the engine. The car should be flat bedded to a qualified shop for diagnosis and repair.
#11
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I just hope that you can continue to enjoy driving the car with some level of confidence. I would be on edge, listening for any little sound or sign from the gauges.
My advice, offered at no charge: Get the car to a good Porsche mechanic soon and get a definitive answer.
Waiting for a grenade to explode is no fun, even if it never explodes.
My advice, offered at no charge: Get the car to a good Porsche mechanic soon and get a definitive answer.
Waiting for a grenade to explode is no fun, even if it never explodes.
#12
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After rereading the post I think we all made different assumptions. I assumed while doing the clutch he dropped the trans and took out the IMS bearing and saw it was bad, then dropped the pan as part of the process of investigation then you may have problems. If he just dropped the pan and said you had problems get a new mechanic.
#14
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Quick update. He's gonna do my clutch and and clean out the metal from the oil so I can get it out of the shop. As soon as the weather lets up I'm going to get a second opinion from another mechanic.
Thanks again everyone for the advice
#15
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After rereading the post I think we all made different assumptions. I assumed while doing the clutch he dropped the trans and took out the IMS bearing and saw it was bad, then dropped the pan as part of the process of investigation then you may have problems. If he just dropped the pan and said you had problems get a new mechanic.
Now from my research, the IMS is magnetic right? He said that the metal in the pan wasn't magnetic so it was coming from the engine and meant the engine was "toast" and needed a new one.