alpine003

I don't think this will have a big effect unless you are concerned with .00025 hp.

The only guys I know that uses a fuel cooler are straight line guys at the tracks.

RDCR

Not when it's normal operating temp is what 20 degrees colder then with the stock T-stat due to the low temp T-stat. Technically you're right though because the normal operating temp is so much higher stock.

My car is pretty much an occasional good weather only / drive to the track / track car at this point so I'm not worried about unburned fuel/water. My current OAs would support that unburned fuel/water in not a problem with my motor. Someone in colder climates who isn't running their car hard or for longer distances might be better served without it for the reasons you point out above.

phil996cab99

I've diagnosed the right side fan problem as a dirty relay bank. So the solution for that is electrical contact cleaner, per autoatlanta.com.

So would Autozone be okay for electrical cleaner? Bcoz now I'm in a hurry before Monday dealer appt. (coolant flush), so I wanna factor out the relay socket so they can test the fan. Thanks.

How I got there:
1. Cleaned radiators.
1.5 Baseline- left side fan works both hi and lo, right side fan fails both hi and lo.
2. Swapped the relays left side <=> right side. Now test.
3. Low speed works on both sides.
4. High speed works on left side, but not on right side.

Conclusions:
5. The right side hi socket is the dirtiest (and dirtier than its relay).
6. All relays are good, bcoz the suspect rightside relays work after swap to leftside.
7. Rightside low speed fixed by reseating relay.
8. Both rightside sockets were difficult to pull out of, difficult to put back into, and felt a little gritty and small amount of staining (rust colored).
9. The sockets are dirtier than the relays. Which is why I want to clean the sockets (bank).

Ahsai

Did you swap the high speed relays between the two sides and confirm the right side fan high speed indeed works with a good relay? I would suggest a new relay unless you can open it up and clean the contacts inside.

RallyDogRacing

Seems like you're well down the path. If you've got all low-speed fans; getting to the high-speed for both shouldn't be a frequent occurrence unless you're in a really warm environ.

One piece of mind option as a short-term fix while you get a new relay (if not immediately available) would be to add an over-ride switch to force high-speed fan on. In my race car I have the standard temp-driven relays and then manual over-rides for each fan-speed.

Don't take out that A/C - and actually just turn it on. Then you have drawn-air vs. forced-air through the radiator cores all the time. That should improve things a lot. The way I think of it is:
a. A/C triggers low-speed rad-fans = pretty much on all time
b. ECU triggers Med / 1st real fan should be after thermostat is wide-open and coolant temp is nearing 100c
c. ECU triggers High-speed / 2nd-speed for over-temp prevention

Enjoy the fruits of having the snowflake button pressed for a drive and see if anything is better

phil996cab99

I'm not sure what you mean by "Med" in (b). I'm only aware of low and high. Is there a medium?

phil996cab99

Just to pay it forward for future searchers ...

"Too hot" = 230+ (F) for any length of time. You never want to hit 250-260.
Warning lights come on at max tick (280F) and damage is definitely being done.
Gauge marks are 180, 250, 280.
Hi speed fans come on at 226F (108C). If they don't immediately start lowering temps (back to 210-) then you have a problem.

This is from the dealer today.

Larry Hughes

Sorry. Brain fart. Deleted original text to minimize confusion on an already confused site.

DBJoe996

I would argue that is entirely wrong. The fans draw cool air in from the front and expel backwards. If your fans are running backwards then you have a problem. If you think about it, that makes no sense whatsoever. It is right that the AC condenser is in front, then the radiator.