Is THIS too hot?
#46
#47
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You'd better go back to T-stat class. A lower temp T-stat opens at a lower temperature but the engine will take longer to warm up to its nominal operating temperature.
It will be interesting to see how engines that have been fitted with a low temp T-stat fare over time after having to deal with colder and thus thicker oil and oil that because it is colder can't shed the build up of unburned fuel and water.
It will be interesting to see how engines that have been fitted with a low temp T-stat fare over time after having to deal with colder and thus thicker oil and oil that because it is colder can't shed the build up of unburned fuel and water.
My car is pretty much an occasional good weather only / drive to the track / track car at this point so I'm not worried about unburned fuel/water. My current OAs would support that unburned fuel/water in not a problem with my motor. Someone in colder climates who isn't running their car hard or for longer distances might be better served without it for the reasons you point out above.
#48
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I've diagnosed the right side fan problem as a dirty relay bank. So the solution for that is electrical contact cleaner, per autoatlanta.com.
So would Autozone be okay for electrical cleaner? Bcoz now I'm in a hurry before Monday dealer appt. (coolant flush), so I wanna factor out the relay socket so they can test the fan. Thanks.
How I got there:
1. Cleaned radiators.
1.5 Baseline- left side fan works both hi and lo, right side fan fails both hi and lo.
2. Swapped the relays left side <=> right side. Now test.
3. Low speed works on both sides.
4. High speed works on left side, but not on right side.
Conclusions:
5. The right side hi socket is the dirtiest (and dirtier than its relay).
6. All relays are good, bcoz the suspect rightside relays work after swap to leftside.
7. Rightside low speed fixed by reseating relay.
8. Both rightside sockets were difficult to pull out of, difficult to put back into, and felt a little gritty and small amount of staining (rust colored).
9. The sockets are dirtier than the relays. Which is why I want to clean the sockets (bank).
So would Autozone be okay for electrical cleaner? Bcoz now I'm in a hurry before Monday dealer appt. (coolant flush), so I wanna factor out the relay socket so they can test the fan. Thanks.
How I got there:
1. Cleaned radiators.
1.5 Baseline- left side fan works both hi and lo, right side fan fails both hi and lo.
2. Swapped the relays left side <=> right side. Now test.
3. Low speed works on both sides.
4. High speed works on left side, but not on right side.
Conclusions:
5. The right side hi socket is the dirtiest (and dirtier than its relay).
6. All relays are good, bcoz the suspect rightside relays work after swap to leftside.
7. Rightside low speed fixed by reseating relay.
8. Both rightside sockets were difficult to pull out of, difficult to put back into, and felt a little gritty and small amount of staining (rust colored).
9. The sockets are dirtier than the relays. Which is why I want to clean the sockets (bank).
Last edited by phil996cab99; 06-28-2014 at 09:21 AM. Reason: electrical cleaner
#49
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Did you swap the high speed relays between the two sides and confirm the right side fan high speed indeed works with a good relay? I would suggest a new relay unless you can open it up and clean the contacts inside.
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Seems like you're well down the path. If you've got all low-speed fans; getting to the high-speed for both shouldn't be a frequent occurrence unless you're in a really warm environ.
One piece of mind option as a short-term fix while you get a new relay (if not immediately available) would be to add an over-ride switch to force high-speed fan on. In my race car I have the standard temp-driven relays and then manual over-rides for each fan-speed.
Don't take out that A/C - and actually just turn it on. Then you have drawn-air vs. forced-air through the radiator cores all the time. That should improve things a lot. The way I think of it is:
a. A/C triggers low-speed rad-fans = pretty much on all time
b. ECU triggers Med / 1st real fan should be after thermostat is wide-open and coolant temp is nearing 100c
c. ECU triggers High-speed / 2nd-speed for over-temp prevention
Enjoy the fruits of having the snowflake button pressed for a drive and see if anything is better
One piece of mind option as a short-term fix while you get a new relay (if not immediately available) would be to add an over-ride switch to force high-speed fan on. In my race car I have the standard temp-driven relays and then manual over-rides for each fan-speed.
Don't take out that A/C - and actually just turn it on. Then you have drawn-air vs. forced-air through the radiator cores all the time. That should improve things a lot. The way I think of it is:
a. A/C triggers low-speed rad-fans = pretty much on all time
b. ECU triggers Med / 1st real fan should be after thermostat is wide-open and coolant temp is nearing 100c
c. ECU triggers High-speed / 2nd-speed for over-temp prevention
Enjoy the fruits of having the snowflake button pressed for a drive and see if anything is better
#51
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I'm not sure what you mean by "Med" in (b). I'm only aware of low and high. Is there a medium?
#52
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Just to pay it forward for future searchers ...
"Too hot" = 230+ (F) for any length of time. You never want to hit 250-260.
Warning lights come on at max tick (280F) and damage is definitely being done.
Gauge marks are 180, 250, 280.
Hi speed fans come on at 226F (108C). If they don't immediately start lowering temps (back to 210-) then you have a problem.
This is from the dealer today.
"Too hot" = 230+ (F) for any length of time. You never want to hit 250-260.
Warning lights come on at max tick (280F) and damage is definitely being done.
Gauge marks are 180, 250, 280.
Hi speed fans come on at 226F (108C). If they don't immediately start lowering temps (back to 210-) then you have a problem.
This is from the dealer today.
#54
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I would argue that is entirely wrong. The fans draw cool air in from the front and expel backwards. If your fans are running backwards then you have a problem. If you think about it, that makes no sense whatsoever. It is right that the AC condenser is in front, then the radiator.