Best Oil for 996
#17
Not to fan the flames of opinion-hell; but for those reacting to the more recent negative comments against the Mobil 1 product family - it is probably rooted in the formulation changes a little while back where more of the Zinc (ZDDP) was remove from the mix due to (I believe) EPA and Marketing pressures.
I'm not for advocating a magic oil bullet in terms of brand - simply because the formulas change over time. For the initial startup of a newly rebuilt motor is it worth it to spend a few extra bucks on a high ZDDP oil (read: Break In Oil)? Well for me I decided it really couldn't hurt so I went for it. I will drain it in 1k miles and switch to a 0w40 with as much ZDDP as I can find at not ridiculous cost. I can't prove it did anything except make me feel better about having covered all the bases. So I got value from it.
To my limited understanding the Zinc is the last chain of defense in providing protection from metal to metal contact when the oil integrity has broken down. So I might as well go for the formulations that were as close in ZDDP levels to what was available in 2002 as that's what things were designed for.
Granted I'm sure far more damage happens because of the Ethanol in our fuel than happens from changes in the ZDDP content of our oil... I just can't find pure-gas in 93octane without driving a few hundred miles.
I'm not for advocating a magic oil bullet in terms of brand - simply because the formulas change over time. For the initial startup of a newly rebuilt motor is it worth it to spend a few extra bucks on a high ZDDP oil (read: Break In Oil)? Well for me I decided it really couldn't hurt so I went for it. I will drain it in 1k miles and switch to a 0w40 with as much ZDDP as I can find at not ridiculous cost. I can't prove it did anything except make me feel better about having covered all the bases. So I got value from it.
To my limited understanding the Zinc is the last chain of defense in providing protection from metal to metal contact when the oil integrity has broken down. So I might as well go for the formulations that were as close in ZDDP levels to what was available in 2002 as that's what things were designed for.
Granted I'm sure far more damage happens because of the Ethanol in our fuel than happens from changes in the ZDDP content of our oil... I just can't find pure-gas in 93octane without driving a few hundred miles.
#18
I have had many Porsche and I presently use Mobil 1. I have found that if I go over the recommended 3K miles my car begins to run odd. It seems to labor or just feel heavy. I do use Motul on the tranny, but since Mobil 1 has served my engine well for so many years, I think that I will stick with it
#19
Not to fan the flames of opinion-hell; but for those reacting to the more recent negative comments against the Mobil 1 product family - it is probably rooted in the formulation changes a little while back where more of the Zinc (ZDDP) was remove from the mix due to (I believe) EPA and Marketing pressures.
I'm not for advocating a magic oil bullet in terms of brand - simply because the formulas change over time. For the initial startup of a newly rebuilt motor is it worth it to spend a few extra bucks on a high ZDDP oil (read: Break In Oil)? Well for me I decided it really couldn't hurt so I went for it. I will drain it in 1k miles and switch to a 0w40 with as much ZDDP as I can find at not ridiculous cost. I can't prove it did anything except make me feel better about having covered all the bases. So I got value from it.
To my limited understanding the Zinc is the last chain of defense in providing protection from metal to metal contact when the oil integrity has broken down. So I might as well go for the formulations that were as close in ZDDP levels to what was available in 2002 as that's what things were designed for.
Granted I'm sure far more damage happens because of the Ethanol in our fuel than happens from changes in the ZDDP content of our oil... I just can't find pure-gas in 93octane without driving a few hundred miles.
I'm not for advocating a magic oil bullet in terms of brand - simply because the formulas change over time. For the initial startup of a newly rebuilt motor is it worth it to spend a few extra bucks on a high ZDDP oil (read: Break In Oil)? Well for me I decided it really couldn't hurt so I went for it. I will drain it in 1k miles and switch to a 0w40 with as much ZDDP as I can find at not ridiculous cost. I can't prove it did anything except make me feel better about having covered all the bases. So I got value from it.
To my limited understanding the Zinc is the last chain of defense in providing protection from metal to metal contact when the oil integrity has broken down. So I might as well go for the formulations that were as close in ZDDP levels to what was available in 2002 as that's what things were designed for.
Granted I'm sure far more damage happens because of the Ethanol in our fuel than happens from changes in the ZDDP content of our oil... I just can't find pure-gas in 93octane without driving a few hundred miles.
#20
#21
#22
* must be READ first and foremost
* then reader is convinced he is armed with enough info to make own decision(s)
But sadly more often than not, skip the time and effort needed to read a POLL since its much easier to just start a new thread and have members do the work. IOW, I predict a hundred more oil threads in the future...with IMSB threads a close second
#23
#25
Premature oil changing is harming the enviroment
Yes, AA717driver. I think the factory interval calls for a longer mileage oil change on the P-Car, but I regularly change mine at 5,000 miles or once a year. Now as far as the "other cars" in our motor pool, my wifes Infinity and our Land Rover they get changed at 7,500 miles or sometimes even more, lol.
#27
For the initial startup of a newly rebuilt motor is it worth it to spend a few extra bucks on a high ZDDP oil (read: Break In Oil)? Well for me I decided it really couldn't hurt so I went for it. I will drain it in 1k miles and switch to a 0w40 with as much ZDDP as I can find at not ridiculous cost.
#28
#29
If you're in houston Rallydog, I would just make the drive over to KK's to pickup and recycle his old 500 mi OCI JG-DT40 he has barrels of.
PS, you changed your avatar?
#30
Motul 5W40, Mahle or Mann filters. Cut them open every time.
Change every 10,000 kilometres or less - never more. (That's 6000 miles or so - makes it easy to tell when I need an oil change.
Engine was changed after 40,000 miles with big bearing motor - so no LNS for me. Then again I have yet to see proof that big IMS bearings fail.
The car has 210,000 kilometres, with 140,000 on the new engine, 70,000 of which are my kilometres - all on Motul.
Change every 10,000 kilometres or less - never more. (That's 6000 miles or so - makes it easy to tell when I need an oil change.
Engine was changed after 40,000 miles with big bearing motor - so no LNS for me. Then again I have yet to see proof that big IMS bearings fail.
The car has 210,000 kilometres, with 140,000 on the new engine, 70,000 of which are my kilometres - all on Motul.