Ahsai

The solenoid doesn't need much power. I would bet even a 9v battery can make it click.

Imo000

You mean the negative jumper post, with? I’ve been using that all along. Loosed it and squeezed the multimeter probe under it so I wouldn’t have to hold it.

The +12V jumper post in the engine bay shouldn't be fused and is always hot, even with the engine off as it is directly connected to the battery. When the battery is dead, this is where the car should be boosted/jumped from.

I have a 12V crodless drill, maybe I'lll use it battery it to test the solenoid.

Ahsai

Yes, yes, and best

Imo000

Solenoid is good. Has 13 ohms resistance and when triggered with a 12V motorcycle battery, the idle sutbles just likeit did when the other bank was triggered with Durametric the other day. Pulled the DME and someone has been in there before. The cable is wrapped with electrical tape in a sloppy way that it shows someone elses handywork.

The DME plug is one piece, unlike in the other write up I saw where there were several smaller plugs connected in a sequence. How are the pins numbered in this one large and long plug?

Imo000

Found the plug numbering sequence info on the side of the plug.

Ahsai

That's not entirely bad news. Definitely check the resistance between pin 25 and the trigger pin of the bank 2 solenoid connector.

The multi-socket DME you saw are for MkII DME 7.8. It has 5 plugs and 134 pins total.

Imo000

The resistance between pin 25 and the pin at the solenoid is very low (2ohms) the mulitmeter leads alone have about 1.5 ohms so the wiring harness is good. I ran 12V from the motorcycle battery, using the peanut bulb just to see if the wire acts differently when under load and all looked good. The bulb lit up nice and bright. I even moved the DME connector around in case there is a break in the wire when it is twisted and there was no issue with it. The wire for pin 25 is good. This leaves the DME as the problem. A buddy of mine is coming over with a Durametric cable to re check the solenoid end of the connector.

If the DME bad, can I splice the 52 pin into the 25 so it will trigger both solenoids? Ofcourse the wire for pin 25 would have to be cut to keep the DME from getting feedback from the jumped line.

Ahsai

You may also want to check the #25 male pin on the DME is not bent and it's mating well with the socket on the DME connector. Next is to open up the DME and check anything obvious on that pin any cold joints on the transistors.

I would not recommend tapping into pin 52 to power both solenoids as it may overload the circuit behind. Most likely each bank has it's own indepedent driver. If that circuit is damaged, you will left with no other alternatives but to repair the DME. However, it should not be too difficult to tap pin 52 for its ground signal (negligible current) to trigger an external transistor (MOSFET) to supply ground to the bank 2 solenoid. Or the easy route will be just to send the DME to a specialist for repair.

Imo000

A fellow RL'er (Gaugeman69) came over to check the DME, we cracked the DME open, followed pin 25 and the diode for it is charred. BINGO! Took some pictures of the diode's numbers, now of to hunt for a replacement diode. I will not use the pin 52 diode to run both banks, instead I'll replace the blown diode. The numbers on the diode are, 30046, 43522.2, 9840.

Thanks for all the help, I really do appreciate it a lot.

Hopefully this thread will be useful in the future.

I'll report back with the results of the diode hunt.

Ahsai

Good job! Must be the fly back diode for the solenoid.

Ahsai

Googled a bit but couldn't find it. Are you sure it's a diode? How many pins it has? Can you post a pic?

Like this?

Fyi https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...cu-repair.html

Imo000

I'm positive its a diode, looks like your pic. I can't post any pics on here anymore or else I would. I did take a picture of it.

Imo000

Looked at the link and the damage is at the same location except much less severe. Looks like there there is a replacement part number in there too. Thank you!

Ahsai

Those are actually transistors but it doesn't matter Yes, I saw the substitute part number so I posted it here for you. However, if you use that substitute, make sure you read the sub thread that talks about using a mica insulation that may or may not apply to you. I have not read the whole thing.

Once it's fixed, you may want to add an inline fuse in series with the solenoid in case the burnt transistor was due to overload from the solenoid. I know you measured the resistance which seems fine but that may change once warmed out. It may have a short that shows up only when hot. So to protect the new transistor, you can use a 2A fuse and drive the car for a month or so to build confidence, then you can get rid of the fuse if preferred.

To add the fuse without splicing the wires, you can rig up something with the standard BOSCH Ev1 male and female connectors (i think your solenoid uses these connectors but pls verify) http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=14559861 with an inline fuse between the solenoid and the solenoid connector. Completely reversible mod.

Imo000

Ordered a Bosch PIB373 transiator online. Should be here in a week. Supposed to be a viable replacement for the one that fried in the DME. If it works as it did for others, I'll buy a few more for spare. They are a little over $8each and not too many places sell them. I'll install a fuse inline and keep an eye on it.