FLY996

I recently started a major project to completely overhaul my '03 Bose sound system. New HU, Amp, Speakers and Sub. It's something that I'm working on mostly during the weekends and will take a few more weeks to complete. I'll post progress pic's as I go along...

Passenger Seat Out:


Head Unit, A/C Controls and Horseshoe Out:


Replacement JL Front Speakers Mounted (I had to grind out the OEM Bracket to fit):


Replacement JL Rear Speaker TR525 CXi (will be a tight fit but looks like I can just make it):


Bose Sub Box Out - Replacement Alpine Type R Sub. I will build a "fake" Bose Sub Box and mount the Alpine to it:


Head Unit (JVC Single Din 5.4" Touch Screen) (Discontinued but luckily I found one on Craigslist):


JL 500/5 Amp (Not the latest JL model but I always liked the look)


T-Spec v12 4 AWG AMP Ground and Power:




JL Crossovers Mounted (needs clean-up):


Amp Rack (needs major clean-up):

FLY996

If anyone is interested in acquiring the stock Bose components please PM me.

Seeeu911

Wow looks like a very complete job.
Question about your instrument cluster. Did you do those gauge red faces yourself ? I'm looking for a shop to do just the center tach red.

FLY996

Yes, I did the gauges myself a few years ago. About a 6/10 on the difficulty scale as I recall. I think there's a DIY on here or renntech. One thing I recall doing was taking pictures of the needle placements prior to pulling the needles off....was helpful to insure they went back in the same places.

Dennis C

I've thought about that too. I've considered a yellow tach because I feel like it might be easier to read than a red one.

Dinicod

Love this stuff... Keep us posted on the progress and include lots of pics. JL speakers are something else!

FLY996

RCA cables into the cabin....

Knukonceptzs Krystal Kable - Triple Shielded RCA Cables. Hopefully this will shield any noise/interference from the Amp power cable which will be close by.


Firewall grommet behind the battery...you can see a little of the blue HU to Amp remote turn on wire. I also have my laser jammer cable run into the cabin from here.



(3) sets of RCA's thru (taped to the white Pro.Fit Wire Worm from Crutchfield which is indispensable for this job) I had to completely remove the upper center console to get this done:

FLY996

Installed JL TR525 CXi Rear speakers

I loosen the rear interior side panel to provide room for the rear speaker and wiring installation (removed the B Pillar clip and the one B Pillar screw that secures the panel).

Pushed back foam insulation and cleaned area with denatured alcohol. Then applied 3M 4959 Very High Bond Double Sided tape around the opening (once cured, this stuff has amazing bonding ability):


1/2" MDF cut for the mounting ring with (4) screw wholes drilled


Mounting ring connected to Double Sided Tape (I used small C clamps for 24 hours to provide pressure):


I could not figure out wiring to the rears (or Subwoofer) using the Autoleads wiring adapter so I installed my own wiring to the Rears and Sub (KnuKonceptz Karma Kable 16 Gauge for the rears and 12 gauge for the Sub)


Speaker wired and installed to mounting ring:


OEM Speaker Grill re-installed and rear panel reattached (I had to cut down the length of the two mounting screws due the the increased width of the new speaker install:

FLY996

I'm installing the JL C5-653 3-way system (Mid Range and Tweeter in the dash and Mid Base in the door). In order to connect the JL Mid Range I need to pull a wiring run to each dash location. I'll use the the existing dash wiring to connect the JL tweeter. That existing wire is connected to the Bose wiring harness. I'll use the Autoleads wiring harness adapter to gain access to the tweeter wiring therefore I will not have to splice the Bose harness wiring.

KnuKonceptz Karma Cable 16 Gauge cable pulled to the dash location using the Wire Worm


JL Mid Range and Tweeter installed in the OEM speaker Housing. I used 3m double sided foam tape, poly fil and the OEM speaker housing to hold the Mid Range in place.You see the OEM wire connector now attached to the JL Tweeter.



Mid Range and Tweeter wires connected


Speakers installed (looks OEM)



Bose Wiring Harness


Bose Wiring Harness with Autoleads connected. I used the following wires on the Autoleads to connect the tweeters:

White - Front Left +
White/Black - Front Left -

Grey - Front Right +
Grey/Black Front Right -



Crossover Connections


Connections to AMP

DrBrain

Looks very well thought out. If I may make one suggestion: before cutting and trimming the auto leads cable, consider locating the chunky Bose connector with the Autoleads counterpart in the corner on the right hand side ("right side" based on your last pic of your frunk) between the break cylinder and the frunk wall. That is what I did and it removes the unsightly connector from view.

FLY996

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind as I organize wiring in the frunk.

TSMacNeil

Yowsa...that frunk looks like the main umbilical on the space shuttle. Nice work.

5CHN3LL

Be sure to reconnect the passenger seat before you power up for testing...otherwise you'll get an airbag failure code.

FLY996

Unfortunately I already had the Airbag code which stemmed from the initial seat installation...need to get that reset when all said and done. I've been doing testing as each component goes in....so far, so good...

hotelguy

wow, very nice Fly...should sound AWESOME.