996.2 MOST / Bose radio adaptor
#1
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Thread Starter
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My radio volume cut out, and it was never very good anyway on my 2004 996 w/ Bose.
I'd like to replace the stock head unit and amp, but not rewire the whole car to keep costs down. I'd rather hear the exhaust most of the time anyway.
Is there an adaptor that will allow me to connect into the stock Bose speakers with aftermarket amp and head unit?
Thanks!
I'd like to replace the stock head unit and amp, but not rewire the whole car to keep costs down. I'd rather hear the exhaust most of the time anyway.
Is there an adaptor that will allow me to connect into the stock Bose speakers with aftermarket amp and head unit?
Thanks!
#2
Rocky Mountain High
Rennlist Member
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I know that there's a MOST-HUR adapter for the Cayenne and the 997. I would assume it will work on a 996, but I'm not sure. If you search MOST-HUR you may be able to find out.
#4
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Yes it will work.
MOST fiber optic is only between the headunit and amp. Remove them.
Aftermarket headunit will plug in to factory harness with Best Kit BHA1784 or Metra 70-1787.
To tap into speakers:
You'll need the matching harness adapter, Autoleads PC2-95-4, which will plug into the factory loom in place of the Bose amp. This will give you access to the speaker wiring. Since this harness adapter is made for lots of other factory systems, you will have many unused wires.
The hard part is isolating the wires (+ & -) and matching them to the correct speakers.
I recall only the Bose subwoofer had a different ohm setting of 1. You may have to rewire in series to increase ohms depending on your aftermarket amp.
Note other speakers' ohms are:
Front dash mid/tweeter units are about 2 ohm
Front door mid-bass units, about 2 ohm
Rear seat mid/tweeter units, 4 ohm.
MOST fiber optic is only between the headunit and amp. Remove them.
Aftermarket headunit will plug in to factory harness with Best Kit BHA1784 or Metra 70-1787.
To tap into speakers:
You'll need the matching harness adapter, Autoleads PC2-95-4, which will plug into the factory loom in place of the Bose amp. This will give you access to the speaker wiring. Since this harness adapter is made for lots of other factory systems, you will have many unused wires.
The hard part is isolating the wires (+ & -) and matching them to the correct speakers.
I recall only the Bose subwoofer had a different ohm setting of 1. You may have to rewire in series to increase ohms depending on your aftermarket amp.
Note other speakers' ohms are:
Front dash mid/tweeter units are about 2 ohm
Front door mid-bass units, about 2 ohm
Rear seat mid/tweeter units, 4 ohm.
#5
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I'd be curious to hear someone full setup, I mean amp reference number and all
the harness part number is really helpful but I am yet to see someone posting their full MOST setup upgrade.
lately anyways I think the ipad mini setup is one of the most interesting, not cheapest but really cool integration. But I have not seen anybody doing it with an external amplifier.
they usually connect via an ipad system like the dension500
the harness part number is really helpful but I am yet to see someone posting their full MOST setup upgrade.
lately anyways I think the ipad mini setup is one of the most interesting, not cheapest but really cool integration. But I have not seen anybody doing it with an external amplifier.
they usually connect via an ipad system like the dension500
#6
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I did the full upgrade in 2011. I'm trying to locate some old treads.
Old thread. Mine is post #4:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-question.html
I also have an '03 Coupe with the Bose system. I recently changed my headunit with an Alpine CDA-105 and 5-channel amp (Alpine PDX-5). I also have the iPOD connector and now Bluetooth for my phone. I'm loving the system; cleaner and clearer than before.
I integrated the amp using the "factory" Bose harness from England. Everything was pretty much a plug-in-play. I only had to cut the rubber grommets in the firewalls and tap into the wires.
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs. The headunit's internal amp powers the rear quarter panel speakers.
Note the ohms of these Bose speakers are weird. I had to re-wire the Bose subs from parallel to series to increase the ohms from about 1 to 4. The factory doors are 2 ohms but most amps can handle that resistence.
I am in the process of upgrading the 5.25" Bose sub speakers. However, the factory box is 13.8 liters (about .48 cubic feet); it is difficult to find one that will fit with the ports. I'm going to test some (on sale) $12 Aurasound speakers used in the 2005 Ford GT (A $4000 Mcintosh system). Otherwise: Morel or Focal or CDT.
Have fun!
I integrated the amp using the "factory" Bose harness from England. Everything was pretty much a plug-in-play. I only had to cut the rubber grommets in the firewalls and tap into the wires.
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs. The headunit's internal amp powers the rear quarter panel speakers.
Note the ohms of these Bose speakers are weird. I had to re-wire the Bose subs from parallel to series to increase the ohms from about 1 to 4. The factory doors are 2 ohms but most amps can handle that resistence.
I am in the process of upgrading the 5.25" Bose sub speakers. However, the factory box is 13.8 liters (about .48 cubic feet); it is difficult to find one that will fit with the ports. I'm going to test some (on sale) $12 Aurasound speakers used in the 2005 Ford GT (A $4000 Mcintosh system). Otherwise: Morel or Focal or CDT.
Have fun!
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-question.html
Last edited by jeneric996; 02-23-2014 at 12:33 AM.
#7
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Thread Starter
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Yes it will work.
MOST fiber optic is only between the headunit and amp. Remove them.
Aftermarket headunit will plug in to factory harness with Best Kit BHA1784 or Metra 70-1787.
To tap into speakers:
You'll need the matching harness adapter, Autoleads PC2-95-4, which will plug into the factory loom in place of the Bose amp. This will give you access to the speaker wiring. Since this harness adapter is made for lots of other factory systems, you will have many unused wires.
The hard part is isolating the wires (+ & -) and matching them to the correct speakers.
I recall only the Bose subwoofer had a different ohm setting of 1. You may have to rewire in series to increase ohms depending on your aftermarket amp.
Note other speakers' ohms are:
Front dash mid/tweeter units are about 2 ohm
Front door mid-bass units, about 2 ohm
Rear seat mid/tweeter units, 4 ohm.
MOST fiber optic is only between the headunit and amp. Remove them.
Aftermarket headunit will plug in to factory harness with Best Kit BHA1784 or Metra 70-1787.
To tap into speakers:
You'll need the matching harness adapter, Autoleads PC2-95-4, which will plug into the factory loom in place of the Bose amp. This will give you access to the speaker wiring. Since this harness adapter is made for lots of other factory systems, you will have many unused wires.
The hard part is isolating the wires (+ & -) and matching them to the correct speakers.
I recall only the Bose subwoofer had a different ohm setting of 1. You may have to rewire in series to increase ohms depending on your aftermarket amp.
Note other speakers' ohms are:
Front dash mid/tweeter units are about 2 ohm
Front door mid-bass units, about 2 ohm
Rear seat mid/tweeter units, 4 ohm.
Is there any reason I couldn't use an aftermarket amp with the Autoleads PC2-95-4 adaptor to run all the speakers as opposed to your setup where the headunit runs the rear? Is it due to the number of channels for the amp that are needed?
Also, did you need adaptors to mount the head unit to the console?
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#8
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Thank you very much for the links and exact adaptor info.
Is there any reason I couldn't use an aftermarket amp with the Autoleads PC2-95-4 adaptor to run all the speakers as opposed to your setup where the headunit runs the rear? Is it due to the number of channels for the amp that are needed?
Is there any reason I couldn't use an aftermarket amp with the Autoleads PC2-95-4 adaptor to run all the speakers as opposed to your setup where the headunit runs the rear? Is it due to the number of channels for the amp that are needed?
No adapters needed to mount the aftermarket headunit. Mine is a single DIN unit. Most or all aftermarket units come with a sleeve. You remove the factory unit, install the sleeve which has bendable tabs to secure to car's housing, then slide aftermarket headunit into sleeve.