Build Log: NineEreven Turbo NB
#63
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just shy of that, yes. They charge a "server" fee if you don't buy the kit directly from them, new. I think it is a bit extreme but I totally understand why.
#64
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update: Water pump for IC is installed. I ran a line from the battery back to the rear seats area and am using termal rings to connect all electronics back there. I wired it via switch for the on/off capabilities until I get my meth kit. I am going to eventually hav eit set up so it is off when the key is no longer in acc. position but I still have a manual override switch when it is no. If idling in parking lots or letting it warm up, I dont want to have it running
#65
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Why don't you want to run the IC pump when warming up or idling? Last thing you need is to forget to turn it on. Running when the engine is running isnsort of a fail safe setup don't you think?
#66
Rennlist Member
Those water pumps are pretty robust if you have a good one, I'd just let it run whenever the engine is on.
Or, you can add a pressure switch to the intercooler piping that will turn the pump on whenever boost is built up, but turning the pump on and off all the time is going to be harder on it than just letting it run.
Or, you can add a pressure switch to the intercooler piping that will turn the pump on whenever boost is built up, but turning the pump on and off all the time is going to be harder on it than just letting it run.
#67
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Those water pumps are pretty robust if you have a good one, I'd just let it run whenever the engine is on.
Or, you can add a pressure switch to the intercooler piping that will turn the pump on whenever boost is built up, but turning the pump on and off all the time is going to be harder on it than just letting it run.
Or, you can add a pressure switch to the intercooler piping that will turn the pump on whenever boost is built up, but turning the pump on and off all the time is going to be harder on it than just letting it run.
I think you guys are overthinking the switch haha. Basically, it will act completely normal once all wired up, the pump will not receive power until the key is in the accessory. Then I will wire the switch so the pump runs all the time but I have the manual override if I want.
In an effort to get the car going and fill the pump and bleed the system, it will initially be on its own circuit where yes, I could accidentally leave it on or forget to turn it on. Very unlikely and will probably only be like that for a week or so.
As for the meth, I am investigating e85 vs doing meth at the moment and will decide then.
#71
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I went into this choosing not to make a budget because I knew it would take more than whatever I budgeted to get it where I want it.
As it stands, with what I have on order and in the car already, i could have an e46 M3 (high mileage ofc) parked next to my 996.
The project is going to take me a long time to get it where I want it and will always be a tinker toy after that.
Someone could realistically piece together this kit if used for half of what it is new.
As it stands, with what I have on order and in the car already, i could have an e46 M3 (high mileage ofc) parked next to my 996.
The project is going to take me a long time to get it where I want it and will always be a tinker toy after that.
Someone could realistically piece together this kit if used for half of what it is new.
#72
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
I don't get the secrecy behind the cost. If it will cost roughly $5K, $10K or more just say it. I'm not here to judge or attack, just interested what this project will roughly cost.
#73
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Motor prep:
Timing Belt - Can't remember $
Colder Plugs - $60-$80 for a set
Water Pump - $300-$400
Tensioner - Can't remember $
Kits used range from $3500-$6500 depending on whats included. Mine was about $4500 without ECU tune and some small parts. My kit DID NOT INCLUDE:
Couplers
Oil Feed Line: 5ft stainless steel braided -3
Oil return line in braided stainless steel -8
Oil return AN fitting -8 to 1/2" NPT
Air Filter
Hardware (Nuts & Bolts)
2.5" piping in a few spots
Gaskets
It also did not include the basemap tune which I said after shipping is $1750.
My ad on mods that I wanted and for some, felt were required were:
Wideband and Boost Gauges = ~$300
Gauge Pod = $50
Misc. Wiring pieces = $50
Muffler delete = $100
Gaskets
Oil Filters and Oil: $175
If you do the install yourself, there is obviously no labor.
That doesn't include things like some tools you may not have for the project which my garage was quite limited as a lot of stuff is packed up still.
So all in all with a car that can just now move under its own power, safely drive and be monitored:
somewhere between $8K and 9K.
I imagined I could do it somwhere around 6K but overshot it by 30% or so. Again, that is to do the motor the "right" way and doing it yourself for the most part.
#75
You never specified power levels and such for the price...