996 cam timing after IMS install question
#16
Former Vendor
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I agree that pulling the engine is easier and is required for access to the bank 1 components in a 996. Bank 2, on the other hand is very simple to do in the car as direct access is no issue.
I believe I can bail him out by simply keeping the crank locked, loving the intake cam and then pulling the scavenge pump, and loosening the 4 bolts on the exhaust cam drive. Then the offending cam can be rotated back into place, cam lock fitted between both cams and the cam drive bolts re-tightened.
Thats why I want to see a pic of both cams in relation to each other on that side of the engine. Some improvising may be necessary and rules may need to be broken, but we should be able to accomplish this with the cam cover in place.
While the scavenge pump can be pulled from 1-3 with the engine in the car, you will waste more timing trying to avoid pulling the engine than you will just sucking it up and pulling it. This is precision work and you may have to fight to get things back in place, and you don't want anything in your way.
I believe I can bail him out by simply keeping the crank locked, loving the intake cam and then pulling the scavenge pump, and loosening the 4 bolts on the exhaust cam drive. Then the offending cam can be rotated back into place, cam lock fitted between both cams and the cam drive bolts re-tightened.
Thats why I want to see a pic of both cams in relation to each other on that side of the engine. Some improvising may be necessary and rules may need to be broken, but we should be able to accomplish this with the cam cover in place.
While the scavenge pump can be pulled from 1-3 with the engine in the car, you will waste more timing trying to avoid pulling the engine than you will just sucking it up and pulling it. This is precision work and you may have to fight to get things back in place, and you don't want anything in your way.
#17
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Update. I locked the exhaust cam, bank 1-3
Removed the four bolts from the oil scavenger pump ( all driver side stuff)
The pump almost comes all the way out. I was able to loosen the four bolts that hold the gear onto the exhaust cam shaft. The gear is slotted to allow some fine adjustment. I guess.
With gear loose I rotated crank until four gears bolts were against the end of the slot.
There wasn't enough available adjustment to get the alignment back to perfect. But it's a lot closer. I guess it skipped a tooth.
I removed both tensioners on the flywheel side hoping there would be enough slack in the chain to jump back a tooth but no dice. I guess I would have to remove cam covers to move the exhaust cam back a tooth.
Removed the four bolts from the oil scavenger pump ( all driver side stuff)
The pump almost comes all the way out. I was able to loosen the four bolts that hold the gear onto the exhaust cam shaft. The gear is slotted to allow some fine adjustment. I guess.
With gear loose I rotated crank until four gears bolts were against the end of the slot.
There wasn't enough available adjustment to get the alignment back to perfect. But it's a lot closer. I guess it skipped a tooth.
I removed both tensioners on the flywheel side hoping there would be enough slack in the chain to jump back a tooth but no dice. I guess I would have to remove cam covers to move the exhaust cam back a tooth.
#18
Former Vendor
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You are fighting yourself with the engine in the car. Trying to reinstall the scavenge pump and realign the drive will make you beat your head against the wall, if you do get that far. I also believe that you skipped a tooth, but you should have heard that occur. Chain wrap will show you who the boss is!
Post some pics of what you have now. Remember, you may need to pump the tensioner back up before you can set final cam timing, else it will be out as soon as the engine fires up and gets oil pressure.
Post some pics of what you have now. Remember, you may need to pump the tensioner back up before you can set final cam timing, else it will be out as soon as the engine fires up and gets oil pressure.
#22
Former Vendor
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You can still save this with the engine in the car, but on that bank it will be tough. You will have to remove the cam cover, remove the sprocket, advance it one set of teeth and reinstall. There is enough room to drop the sprocket off the cam, shake the chain loose, reset it and reinstall within the confines of the chain well.
One more question, is the tensioner in or out right now??
One more question, is the tensioner in or out right now??
#25
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Success ! Well maybe. I loosened the tensioner and rotated the cam with a tool I made.
Reinstalled the tensioner, rotated 360 and all the cams look good. I installed the green cam caps, added oil and fired it up. Sounds good, no check engine light, ..... Yet.
Road test tomorrow.
Thanks Jake and everyone else who replied.
Reinstalled the tensioner, rotated 360 and all the cams look good. I installed the green cam caps, added oil and fired it up. Sounds good, no check engine light, ..... Yet.
Road test tomorrow.
Thanks Jake and everyone else who replied.