Hey Gang:
There are many gurus in here and they are the individuals with whom I look to for advise. My car ('03- 45K on the clock) is in the shop for its first big, big maintenance. I want to try to make sure I am not missing anything. The motor is coming out, too.
So:
I had the IMS replacement bearing (locally) and she is in for new coils (still has originals) and plugs (originals, too), MotorSport AOS, water pump, oil change, gear oil change, removal of oil sump cover ( has LN deeper sump and x51 baffles) to check for "stuff", new Pagids and a 200 cell cat x pipe.......... they will inspect the clutch, too while in there.....what if anything am I missing (Paging Macster, etc.........)
Thankx for your help.

 

Nice list so far, Id add a new coolant overflow reservoir, oil filler tube and low temp thermostat while your at it. Also, if you haven't switched to the semi solid mounts now would be a good time. RSS makes a nice set.

 

Hey Carey!
I thank you for the suggestions. The coolant overflow reservoir cap was replaced this spring, looks good and the reservoir itself was sound. Oil filler tube......hmm, okay.........low temp thermostat...may I ask why and the benefits of the change????? Can it be done later or best while the engine is out?
As for motor mounts, they were changed out already..........I am wondering out loud if that is a possible cause for a missed 2nd to 3rd shift a few times.........I have been told I need different shift cables???? I did not do any tranny mount changes.
BTW: I haven't forgotten about the offer to come to the land of eternal sunshine..........

 

Low-temp t-stat engages the cooling system at a lower operating temp and makes the engine run cooler.

It can be done at any time, but easiest when the engine's out.

The oil filler tube gets brittle with age and causes a vacuum leak when it cracks or breaks.

The reservoir is not mega expensive - and changing it with the engine out is going to save labor. Mine failed at 55K miles - it is not a high-mileage part.

 

+1 on ALL clutch related parts. Think I would change the oil pressure sending unit ($80) while its out. Now for my question, why are you not doing this yourself? Your really missing some fun stuff.

 

RMS

 

if current water pump is still the original, consider getting a new one.

 

Thankx gang:
I will check into those items. The RMS was replaced a long time ago and does not leak. The original water pump is being replaced. I will inquire about the oil filler tube, the low temp thermostat and oil sending unit being replaced.

 

Opps, as for clutch- it is being inspected once the engine is out.....as for me doing it, I wish I had all the tools a lift, some heat and the space...........I have the desire, not the experience, so I will pay to have it done by very qualified professionals, costs more but done right, as when I have tried, in the past something breaks and it costs me more in the long run.......I accept that I am somewhat "challenged" in this area, and a handicap these days is a good thing, right? Qualifies me for some government funded/subsidized program?????
....last time I did an oil change, it almost turned into a Department of Environmental Conservation super fund sight when the wind cranked up and the oil catch basin tipped over what an f'^*%'in mess....

 

One thing is certain, you have some great back roads to get lost on and burn through. Get off at Herkimer and head to Dolgeville and you can light it up.

 

Scott, looks like the guys above answered your questions. My filler tube just cracked at one of the flex points, cheap easy part to replace if motor is out, same goes with coolant reservoir.

Your going to love the 200 cell cats. They make an awesome howl at WOT.

Invitation still open when your ready to drive Sebring/Daytona/Homestead etc.

 

Scott, for the price of all that work, you could get a 944 race car!

Seriously, it sounds like you'll have many more years of fun in this one.

I assume, they're going to replace the serpentine belt, air cleaner and clean the MAF sensor?

 

Scott, gotta love getting goodies for the car. It is most likely ok but maybe look at replacing the oil cooler.

 

Apparently I'm in the minority but I do not believe a low temp T-stat is advised.

It does not have a material effect on engine coolant temperature. The cooling capacity of the cooling system does.

When Porsche wants to better control or deal with elevated heat loads it adds a cooler.

For instance, when in the original 911 as the engine output grew to 170hp that is when Porsche added an oil cooler.

In more recent models, like Tip equipped cars, Porsche added a 3rd radiator. Same for the Turbos. And with the Turbos it added extra fans stages.

Also, tests have shown wear increases as engine temperature goes down. In a 60 hour engine test at 210F engine wear (cylinder wear) was just 0.0003 inches. At 180F the same test the wear was 0.0005 inches. that is a substantial amount of wear increase. Engine performance suffers too as the cooler oil presents more frictional loss. Fuel consumption measured during the testing went up as test temperature went down.

Based on the info I have and my understanding of engines it is my belief/opinion a low temp T-stat for these engines is borderline insanity. (Add in an under drive pulley and the border has been crossed.)

For the other items that you mention that aren't showing any signs of trouble it is your call if you want to proactively replace them with the engine out.

In my Boxster the water pump lasted to around 172K miles. The Turbo's lasted to over 110K miles. So I'm quite glad I didn't follow the advise to replace these at some lower mileage number.

However, your car is a low miles car and the water pump might fail earlier because of this. Thus an argument could be made for an early/proactive replacement of the water pump. Up to you.

For the AOS I guess I would proactively replace it though not with a Motorsport one.

But it is your call. I've had two AOS's replaced in my Boxster and both times the standard AOS was used. The 1st one (the one the car came with) lasted 80K miles, the 2nd (its replacement) lasted 100K miles. The 2nd's replacement, the current AOS, is closing in on 100K miles.

A tranny/diff fluid change is a good idea. New plugs is a good idea. Fuel filter if there is a serviceable one is a good idea.

Coils? I'd let the tech advise me. If he believes the coils are showing signs of aging then replace them. Both of my cars are on their original coils and each time the car is in for a new plugs the tech has instructions that if based on his opinion they need to be replaced replace them. So far he has not replaced them and both cars run just fine.

Not sure where this fits, but be sure the car is inspected for any leaks. I would address any leaks that's for sure. RMS. Camshaft cover. Coolant leak sign at the water pump would have me replace that no matter what its mileage. Check tranny/diff seals/gaskets, and any line fittings for any leak sign. I had the Turbo in a while back for some things (water pump mainly) and the tech spotted a leak at the front diff axle flanges which I had him fix.

Anyhow, I just can't subscribe to this while one is there replace everything. If I did that I would have spent tons more money on these cars than I already have.

But it is your car, your money, thus your call.

 

Judging from that list, removal of the engine isn't warranted. So why is the shop pulling it?