considering engine mounts. DIY
10-14-2013, 11:33 PM
#17
Drifting
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Actually replaced mine when it went bad on me at about 60000 miles. (Discovered during the annual test. Thanks anyway if that post was directed to me. That was the easiest DIY I have done yet.
10-15-2013, 07:15 AM
#18
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Just replaced mine a few ago. Bought the stock mounts from Pelican. I did not notice smoother shifts and slightly less cabin vibration. The DIY is very straight forward. I think it took me just as long to get the car on jack stands than it did to replace the mounts. Overall for $200 I think it is worth it.
I considered the semi solid mounts but I have the H&R lowering springs which already makes the ride a bit stiff. I don't track my car so I stuck with the stock mounts and I am happy so far. It was a subtle change but noticeable.
I considered the semi solid mounts but I have the H&R lowering springs which already makes the ride a bit stiff. I don't track my car so I stuck with the stock mounts and I am happy so far. It was a subtle change but noticeable.
10-15-2013, 05:33 PM
#19
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OK I have everything ready for the motor mounts arriving in a couple of days. I Used PB Blaster to break the hold on the bottom nuts using a large torsion bar and half inch long reach wrench with extension. Then I removed the air pump no problem or enough to crack open last bolt. Then cracked open the other 3 bolts which hold the top of the mounts. Then took the strain off the engine letting the car rest on two rear stands. So the only thinbgs I am waiting for now are the engine mounts coming from Pelican Parts along with an air filter. OMG is it dirty in that engine compartment.
10-15-2013, 10:46 PM
#22
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rglbegl:- don't have a compressor. Would be handy to blow away some of that dust when I have things all sealed up again. I have full scuba tanks with 3500PSI in them I could use if needed.
10-15-2013, 10:51 PM
#23
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the lower bolts were 63 ft-lbs. Be careful torquing down the upper bolts, they're only 20 or 25 ft-lbs. There's a nice DIY if you google it.
10-15-2013, 10:57 PM
#24
63 ft. lbs. for the lower nut - mount to engine carrier - is correct - double checked in the Bentley manual. I believe I used 19 ft. lbs. for the upper bolts but don't know for sure where I came up with that.
10-15-2013, 10:57 PM
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[QUOTE=Hurdigurdiman;10832663]Invius,,,,,Would you know the exact torque specs for top and underneath bolts?
Hurdi, My notes were 63ft./lb for the bottom bolt, and 20 ft./lb for the two top bolts in the engine compartment.
Cheers,
DS
Hurdi, My notes were 63ft./lb for the bottom bolt, and 20 ft./lb for the two top bolts in the engine compartment.
Cheers,
DS
10-15-2013, 11:20 PM
#27
Hurdi - if you can hit this link it's a clean DIY on the mounts. Note the photo of old and new mounts compared - this is exactly how mine looked. I had her out multiple times today (multiple trips to the auto parts store for the Ford - different story) and I continue to notice huge gains, was on the twisty country roads today and am very impressed with the improvement in handling - never would have guessed.
I can't wait to hear what you think after you ride with new mounts. I know we'll get a direct and no b.s. opinion - and that's a good thing.
10-16-2013, 01:17 AM
#28
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From there you can do the rest by hand. Little armor-all here, some wax on the painted parts, etc etc
10-19-2013, 04:03 PM
#30
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OK I did the mounts in about an hour and a half and here is the difference new and old. Plus I cleaned the engine bay up some as it was filthy. I don't know if I feel a positive difference as the car always ran spot on anyway. It was something which I had to do as PM.
PS:- BTW the car IS defo running smoother, grips the road on bends tighter and my wife says its running like a new car. I have had it out again and find that to be true.
PS:- BTW the car IS defo running smoother, grips the road on bends tighter and my wife says its running like a new car. I have had it out again and find that to be true.
Last edited by Hurdigurdiman; 10-19-2013 at 08:34 PM.