Kazual99

Somehow I managed to cross thread a mounting bolt hole on a rear wheel. Looking for all and every suggestion on fixing, re-threading or replacing.

tokyopav

Recoil thread repair. General engineering shop should be able to sort it for you.

Ubermensch

http://www.timesert.com/

DBJoe996

What ^ said. A good shop should fix you up. Alternatively, remove wheel, caliper, brake disc, to get to axle/hub assembly. If you are handy and the treads are not too damaged, you might be able to clean up the threads with a tap, or you will have to drill and helicoil. Or, remove and replace wheel hub. Torque specs on wheel hub are very important. Don't know what they are for the rear wheel hubs, but they are huge.

Barn996

This summer I used a heli-coil for the first time on my Mercury 150hp outboard engine with great results. You can view videos on you tube to see the steps involved, they helped me.

5CHN3LL

Depending on how bad it is, you may be able to just chase the threads in the boogered hole and use a fresh lug bolt.

fpb111

+1 this first.
Then torque to 95 ft-lbs. If it holds you should be good to go. Re-torque it after the first drive.

Kazual99

Oh, I hosed it up real good. Tried another bolt from a set I'm not using and no luck.

Macster

No. While the tap recuts the threads material is removed, material that was moved out of place by the cross-threading.

The thread though now once again has the proper shape the thread is weak and will likely not hold. A good failure is when it strips right out. A bad one is when the fastener torques up just fine but under usage loosens.

The right solution is to install a threaded insert if this type of repair is allowable on a wheel hub threaded hole for a lug bolt.

If not then the hub needs to be replaced.

Also, I'd toss all of the old lug bolts and renew every one in case one (or more) has some thread damage that could result in cross-threading when used in the new hub.

fpb111

Change to a stud/lug nut setup like the older cars had, many track enthusiasts have.

5CHN3LL

I'd buy a new hub before I would trust a helicoil or threaded insert with something as important as holding the wheel on.

If the hole was only partially boogered (i.e. one noticed the bolt was cross-threaded and stopped attempting to tighten it), I'd still go the route of chasing the damaged threads. If the lug bolt was driven all the way in using an impact wrench, so the majority of the threads are damaged, I'd buy a new hub.

Since the stud/lug conversion still requires that the hub has good threads, I don't think this is a workable solution to the poster's issue...

JMLavoie

If you get a new hub, make sure you get a wheel bearing as well as you have to sacrifice the bearing on removal of the old hub.

Imo000

How far did you drive the bolt in before realizing it wasn't straight? A bolt needs 1.5 times the its diameter to achieve full clamping strength. If you have that much left, a thread chaser will be just fine.

Ubermensch

I'm a safety first kind of guy as well, but I've used Time Serts in some high pressure systems with good results. If it was the only thing holding his wheel on I'd be more likely to replace the hub. It's sharing the load with 4 other bolts and is only torqued to 96 ft-lbs. I think a threaded insertion would be fine. Of course it's his car and his life, so he should make the call.

fpb111

[QUOTE=5CHN3LL;10791842]I'd buy a new hub before I would trust a helicoil or threaded insert with something as important as holding the wheel on.

If the hole was only partially boogered (i.e. one noticed the bolt was cross-threaded and stopped attempting to tighten it), I'd still go the route of chasing the damaged threads. If the lug bolt was driven all the way in using an impact wrench, so the majority of the threads are damaged, I'd buy a new hub.

Since the stud/lug conversion still requires that the hub has good threads, I don't think this is a workable solution to the poster's issue...[/QUOTE]

Wheel studs press in from the inside, no threads needed or used to hold them in.