Car is dead after one month, opinion needed
07-20-2013, 04:15 PM
#16
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Good grief, my reading comprehension is about zero. Make that less than zero. Sorry.
Still, AFAIK the cooling system is not really messed with when the IMSB upgrade is done.
Some coolant hoses may be disconnected and clamped to prevent coolant loss when the transmission is removed to get at the IMSB.
Still, AFAIK the cooling system is not really messed with when the IMSB upgrade is done.
Some coolant hoses may be disconnected and clamped to prevent coolant loss when the transmission is removed to get at the IMSB.
Generally a head gasket leak/failure is localized to one cylinder, two at the most if the gasket between cylinders fail.
But to have all 6 or even 5 cylinders with coolant suggests the coolant came in via the intake and this could point to the AOS as it does have coolant flowing through it and a failure of the AOS could have coolant getting into the intake via the same route the crankcase vapors are routed to the intake manifold.
But to have all 6 or even 5 cylinders with coolant suggests the coolant came in via the intake and this could point to the AOS as it does have coolant flowing through it and a failure of the AOS could have coolant getting into the intake via the same route the crankcase vapors are routed to the intake manifold.
The only common point of contact between oil/coolant that would affect both heads is the AOS. Hopefully that's all you have to fix...
07-20-2013, 08:19 PM
#17
Rat Balls
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+1 on AOS...similar thing happened to me and scared the crap out of me. Even if the shop comes back with a diagnosis that your engine is toast, get a second even third opinion. Towing money well spent. AOS is around $1200 installed. Good luck
07-20-2013, 08:45 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like AOS to me.
Not sure if you are able to work on the car yourself, but if so:
Step 1: remove the AOS; pull the plugs; crank the engine by hand (get all the coolant out); install old spark plugs; install new AOS and change oil/filter.
Step 2: Start car up and let it get to operating temp.
Step 3: remove spark plugs, check compression on all cylinders; if you have constant compression across all 6 cylinders, install new plugs and be on your way; if there is a cylinder or two with significantly lower compression, it's time to drop motor and replace a rod, valves, or piston rings
IMO your engine is probably fine.
Not sure if you are able to work on the car yourself, but if so:
Step 1: remove the AOS; pull the plugs; crank the engine by hand (get all the coolant out); install old spark plugs; install new AOS and change oil/filter.
Step 2: Start car up and let it get to operating temp.
Step 3: remove spark plugs, check compression on all cylinders; if you have constant compression across all 6 cylinders, install new plugs and be on your way; if there is a cylinder or two with significantly lower compression, it's time to drop motor and replace a rod, valves, or piston rings
IMO your engine is probably fine.
07-20-2013, 09:57 PM
#20
Captain Obvious
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There is even an easier way to test the engine. Clamp of the two coolant lines that go the the AOS, pull the spark plugs and crank the engine for 20 sec. to clear out the coolant, then re jnstall the plugs. After this, fire it up, let it run for a few minutes. If the engine sounds good. Get a leakdown test done on it. If that comes back good, take the car for a drive. If that checks out, then get the AOS replaced.
07-20-2013, 10:46 PM
#21
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I can't thank you all enough for your positive comments and your opinions, I really appreciate all of it. I am hoping to get an answer this week and am trying to stay as positive as I can. My first thought when it happened was I would rather it be my car than my own body that had something inside that was killing me like cancer or something fatal.
I am very good at processing hardships/challenges so with a sharp brain, and a functioning body I can make the money to pay for the repair instead of stress about things that are out of my control. It may take a bit of time to sort out but I hope to keep my love for Porsche and I would really love to experience what you all do as it has been a short experience for me so far.
I am very good at processing hardships/challenges so with a sharp brain, and a functioning body I can make the money to pay for the repair instead of stress about things that are out of my control. It may take a bit of time to sort out but I hope to keep my love for Porsche and I would really love to experience what you all do as it has been a short experience for me so far.
07-21-2013, 03:26 AM
#22
Racer
Keep the positive outlook and be sure to investigate FULLY the AOS (short for Air Oil Separator) issue. They ALL fail eventually and are considered wear items. Most AOS's do not make it to 100,000 miles. The AOS is a not an expensive item, but can be challenging to get to, hence the $1200 repair bill at a shop. I replaced mine in my own garage over a weekend and saved myself probably $1000 in labor.
07-21-2013, 09:25 PM
#24
This post is like a cliff hanger season ending tv show. I keep checking back to see the out come and hope for a new episode.
I can't wait for the conclusion. And I keep hoping for a happy ending.
I can't wait for the conclusion. And I keep hoping for a happy ending.
07-21-2013, 09:44 PM
#25
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LOL, me too! I keep checking the thread for input too as it helps me to plan what/who to speak to this week... I am hoping for a happy ending with the car as well, at this point whatever happens I will accept it and deal with it.
07-22-2013, 01:04 AM
#28
Former Vendor
Yikes stories like this make me cringe since I am in the market for a 996. But we all know that sports cars all some sort of issues. JR did a post recently on how some shops are not really doing a job on the IMS correctly? I would be so mad if I spent $26k and my engine blew
The shop installed the top bell housing bolts in the lower positions and they were too long. This lead to a chunk of the block breaking through the chain well and sitting atop the drive chain for the bank 1 cams.
That chunk of the crankcase was the size of a half dollar and was 1/4" thick. It was picked up by the chain and was run through the exhaust cam sprocket. This broke the chain, blew a hole through the cam cover, bent the cam, busted the scavenge pump, retarded the valve timing and kissed all the exhaust valves to the pistons on that bank. It ended up with two busted pistons.
All because the guy chose the cheapest shop to do the IMSB retrofit.
I spent the past 16 hours trying to beat discipline and attention to detail into the heads of 30 technicians at my M96 Engine Mechanical Class this weekend in San Jose Ca. and I used this circumstance as an illustration. You can lead a human to knowledge; but you can't make them think.
The whole story is in my Flat 6 Innovations Newsletter that I'll release in August.
07-22-2013, 02:20 AM
#29
Race Director
Where in this thread (except your posts) does OP say anything about pop-starting his car?
Jump starting != bump starting
Jump starting != bump starting
The problem as I see it is you had it bump started. If there was coolant in the cylinders you very well may have bent a connecting rod (or two, or more).
As a note, always let the clutch out slowly when bump starting it while being pulled. If there is a condition like this, it will lock up the wheels before doing damage to the engine. Ask me how I know this......
As a note, always let the clutch out slowly when bump starting it while being pulled. If there is a condition like this, it will lock up the wheels before doing damage to the engine. Ask me how I know this......
