Cuda911

We've all seen the "Help, battery is dead and I can't open the Frunk/Engine Cover" threads.

There are some posts that address this, ranging from jump-starting via the fuse box post/door latch, and other methods. Most were a bit vague, so I decided a better post was needed.

I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and preventative measures. Here's a quick preventative measure to implement BEFORE the battery dies. Only takes a few minutes, and can save a huge headache later.

Beneath the driver's side rear tail light assembly is an emergency release cable. Simple to get at when you DON'T need it (i.e. when the engine compartment door is open). So, what needs to be done is make the cable accessible when you DO need it.

Of course, if you don't want to do this preventative measure, be sure to fully read the various fuse box jump start threads!

Steps:

1. Open engine compartment cover, and with a 10mm socket, remove the single bolt that holds in the tail light assembly (see photos below).

2. Pull out the assembly. There will be a loop of silver wire sticking up, beneath the assembly. This is the emergency release cable.

3. Pull the wire out, until you get to the loop at the end.

4. Clean the housing, and tape the loop right near the edge (see photos) with some duct tape.

5. Make a cable "fish" tool. See photo below, the lower of the two pictured tools. I used an old bicycle spoke, since it is thin but flexible and strong. I put a finger loop on the other end to make it easier to use. (The other "tool" shown below is also fashioned from a bicycle spoke. It's my wheel center cap removal tool. Or, you can buy Porsche's version for about $30.00.)

6. Reinstall the light.

7. Now, practice the following, BEFORE you are in an emergency lock-out situation: With the engine compartment door open, so you can see what you are doing, slide the hooked end of the tool under the rubber molding around the tail light assembly. Turn it a few degrees to snag the wire, and pull. Presto, engine compartment door pops open!!!

Note: Some people also choose to re-route this cable to somewhere below, so that they can access it from under the car. You can do that, too, but it's a way bigger PITA to have to crawl under the car and hunt around. Especially if the battery dies while you away from home, wearing your best suit, and it's raining.

P.S. There is a similar cable in the front, for the frunk. I will make a post for that cable when I get a chance.

fpb111

Does your bicycle wheel wobble now?

Nice write up thank you.

For the front, the last time I had the bumper cover off to clean the radiators, I just drilled a 1/8" hole in the cooling duct (back where you can't see it unless you are looking for it) and poked a little of the wire loop through and sealed it with some uncured butyl rubber tape. 3M Strip Calk works well and it's handy for other things.

pl

nice weekend project, thanks.

Wausau 911

Done - thx did the front and was thinking about back then saw your post.

alpine003

I routed mine behind the rear bumper. Didn't want to chance scraping or scratching the taillight and/or bumper to get the cord out.

Cuda911

Yeah, I considered routing behind the bumper, but I'd been out for a drive before I did this project and it was way too hot down there. You will find that the cable has plenty of "play" in the rubber molding gap, so it shouldn't cause scratches. The main thing is, though, just get that dang cable secured somewhere so that you can get to it when you need it!!

re: Only when I've ridden it to the local bar.

alpine003

That's why I keep a coat hanger in the frunk. I pop my frunk to get my coat hanger tool so I don't burn my hands.

Cuda911

Ah, but this thread is intended for when ya can't pop the frunk or the trunk. (the boot or the bonnet? The fore or the aft?).

I forgot to mention above, be sure to keep your wire fishing tool in the glove box (or if you have a pre-glove-box version, stuff it somewhere handy, but NOT in the frunk).

Hurdigurdiman

Did back and front of mine within 6 months of getting car. Found front one accidentally when cleaning rads and condensers. Planned for the rear one. Not had to use them in an emergency as yet but they both work great. Good idea to have a spare valet key made and wire that up to front or back cable in case main key is ever lost. I haven't done that as yet but may do one day.

alpine003

Like Hurdi, I've done both front and back release cable rerouting so no issues. Mine is tucked behind on of the radiator bumper openings.

If you haven't done your frunk, where do you keep your spokes? Just curious.

Cuda911

In the glove box.

Hey, anyone know what it costs to have a valet key made? I have two keys, but they are both main keys. There wasn't a valet key when I got the car.

Cuda911

Bump to top, per request.

996_North

Hurdi, my 99' front and rear lid pops open without any battery power. (nice 99 feature). Does yours need the battery power to release ?

Hurdigurdiman

Mine is a 99 and both are operated via the lift catches under the drivers door. My engine lid wire I rerouted so it's easy to grab under the car at the rear. No need to remove the rear light cover. I pulled it back into the engine compartment and then sent it down near the cooling tank under the engine. I coil it around something down there. A strut of something but I can grab it when/if ever I need it. The front one I sent out next to the air temp sensor in the plastic air scoop. The ones under the door work as normal.

sjg1138

In my '99 the Frunk release cable is routed such that it is available near the passenger door hinge. I noticed a pull there the other day. Pretty sure it came from the factory like this. Any idea if the engine cover release cable is routed to some accessible place already in a '99?