Washing engine
#16
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think KK would disagree with you. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
As for electrical connections, most of the electrical connections have the weather proof connectors that are double or triple ribbed grommet around them. There shouldn't be any issues with water getting in those kinds.
I've washed plenty of engines including this one and most just required the alternator and intake areas to be sealed off. YMMV...
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
As for electrical connections, most of the electrical connections have the weather proof connectors that are double or triple ribbed grommet around them. There shouldn't be any issues with water getting in those kinds.
I've washed plenty of engines including this one and most just required the alternator and intake areas to be sealed off. YMMV...
#18
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got to admit that was very funny. Some of you guys are indeed hilarious.
I would only pressure wash the engine if it was removed from the vehicle for repairs and properly sealed. I still dont think it would be needed. I only use a squirt bottle of some type of degreaser or pressurized can type if needed, brush away grime, follow with squirt bottle of water to rinse, then dry.
You can remove the air cleaner and SAI to create a lot of room for cleaning the topside and front (rear) of engine. Clean the bottom side while on car is on stands or lift.
If you have to drop engine or trans for repairs, thats your chance to thoroughly clean everything. I also agree with you that I cant stand looking at or working on a dirty engine.
I would only pressure wash the engine if it was removed from the vehicle for repairs and properly sealed. I still dont think it would be needed. I only use a squirt bottle of some type of degreaser or pressurized can type if needed, brush away grime, follow with squirt bottle of water to rinse, then dry.
You can remove the air cleaner and SAI to create a lot of room for cleaning the topside and front (rear) of engine. Clean the bottom side while on car is on stands or lift.
If you have to drop engine or trans for repairs, thats your chance to thoroughly clean everything. I also agree with you that I cant stand looking at or working on a dirty engine.
#19
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is the problem with power washing any engine. Most power washer run at 1200psi or more, this is a heck of a lot more pressure than driving through a huge storm. Yes the connector are weather proof but if you hit them with the power washer at the right way, it will push water passed the seals and they you have a connector with water it it that can never dry out. If you are cautious, and keep the nozzle far enough away and the connector seals are still in good shape, nothing will happen. BUT given the chance that people will do strange things and older harnesses will have faulty connector seals, washing them is asking for trouble. Best is not to wash them, period.
I tend to let the degreasing agents do their job and just run a hose afterwards.
I've been meaning to try the steam devices one of these days.
#20
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll save him the effort:
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheels
3. Drain all fluids from the car
4. Replace fluids
5. Put wheels back on car
6. Take care for a gentle drive to get engine up to operating temperature
7. Immediately return home
8. Jack up car
9. Remove wheels
10. Drain all fluids from the car
11. Remove engine from car
12. Replace anything bolted to engine whether it is worn or not
13. Clean engine with an OCD-level of attention
14. Reinstall engine
15. Replace fluids again
16. Put wheels back on car
17. Start car to make sure it runs
18. Park car in garage
19. Make thread on Rennlist about what an unreliable time bomb your car is
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheels
3. Drain all fluids from the car
4. Replace fluids
5. Put wheels back on car
6. Take care for a gentle drive to get engine up to operating temperature
7. Immediately return home
8. Jack up car
9. Remove wheels
10. Drain all fluids from the car
11. Remove engine from car
12. Replace anything bolted to engine whether it is worn or not
13. Clean engine with an OCD-level of attention
14. Reinstall engine
15. Replace fluids again
16. Put wheels back on car
17. Start car to make sure it runs
18. Park car in garage
19. Make thread on Rennlist about what an unreliable time bomb your car is
Too funny...I keep hearing the voice of Robert Goulet when I read your posts.
#22
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I like to just back the car down a boat launch far enough to submerge the engine and give it a bath. Leave it running though, that way the belt and rotating parts can splash the water around in the compartment.
#23
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
#26
Rat Balls
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Scottsdale AZ, USA
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll save him the effort:
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheels
3. Drain all fluids from the car
4. Replace fluids
5. Put wheels back on car
6. Take care for a gentle drive to get engine up to operating temperature
7. Immediately return home
8. Jack up car
9. Remove wheels
10. Drain all fluids from the car
11. Remove engine from car
12. Replace anything bolted to engine whether it is worn or not
13. Clean engine with an OCD-level of attention
14. Reinstall engine
15. Replace fluids again
16. Put wheels back on car
17. Start car to make sure it runs
18. Park car in garage
19. Make thread on Rennlist about what an unreliable time bomb your car is
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheels
3. Drain all fluids from the car
4. Replace fluids
5. Put wheels back on car
6. Take care for a gentle drive to get engine up to operating temperature
7. Immediately return home
8. Jack up car
9. Remove wheels
10. Drain all fluids from the car
11. Remove engine from car
12. Replace anything bolted to engine whether it is worn or not
13. Clean engine with an OCD-level of attention
14. Reinstall engine
15. Replace fluids again
16. Put wheels back on car
17. Start car to make sure it runs
18. Park car in garage
19. Make thread on Rennlist about what an unreliable time bomb your car is
#29
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Posts: 3,075
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wouldn't touch mine at all. If the next owner wants to clean the engine then let him. I aint running the risk of spraying water or degreaser in places it wasn't meant to be sprayed. Some may say I am an idle bastard. I like to think I am a WISE idle bastard lol. End of story.
#30
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Posts: 3,075
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LOL Yeh added to the 2 x 4 holding open the engine lid, I like to wear a yellow plastic rain mac and sou'wester hat with the convertible top down when I drive through the car wash. That way I get the dust from the seats and floor carpets as well. The hard part is getting out of the car afterwards to empty my yellow wellington boots before I can drive home hahaha. I just read the boat ramp method and can't see now for tears in my eyes hahaha.