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Minimum height for transmission removal

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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 11:31 AM
  #1  
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Default Minimum height for transmission removal

I'm pulling the transmission and my jack only allows me to raise the car about 18" measured from the jack support point to the ground. I'm not sure I'll be able to get it out from under the car attached to the trans jack.

Is that enough or do I need to figure out a way to get it higher? I searched several of the threads here and it appears many pull the transmission with the car lower than mine is now (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-complete.html), but I'm not sure how.

photo (1).JPG

If it needs to go higher how did you do it? Thanks.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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Also curious...
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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I don't no. It may work, but it will be tight.

I did a 964 that way and it seems to me I had to raise the car more than 18". My jack stands are 24". I could get the transaxle out, but even 24" was not enough for the engine, so I had to rig up a crane to lift the body enough to roll out the engine.

I built custom cradles to hold each component and used my floor jacks to lower them at the same time.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:04 PM
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My stands will go higher but I don't have a jack that will. I thought about rigging up some sort of jack extension/spacer but I wonder how stable it'd be. I guess I could rent a high lift but I thought I'd see what others did first.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:28 PM
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Sand, you can get it a little higher with the use of a short 4X4 on your jacks while you adjust front and back jackstands higher. Two jacks is a must for lifting the 996.

You WILL need an adjustable trans jack that you can adjust the angle while the trans sits on it (safety strap trans). You will be able to get it out by using that feature. The trans is not that heavy but be careful.

Im sorry I didnt take photos of lifting mine, as I recently did this.

Last edited by KrazyK; Jun 1, 2013 at 06:21 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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Default Success

photo (3).JPG

That worked.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 05:45 PM
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Default As high as it'll go

I have 21" clear under the frame. Hopefully that'll be enough for the trans and jack. If not, I'll have to remove it from the jack and drag it out like we did on my son's RX8.

photo (4).JPG

Now, as soon as it cools off a bit, I can go back to work...

photo (5).JPG
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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Good Luck. Post plenty of pics. Dont forget to be ready for the absurd triple square trans bolt. I replaced mine for install.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by KrazyK
Dont forget to be ready for the absurd triple square trans bolt.
I already purchased a socket for it...
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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hi,

I have removed my transmission 4 or 5 times in my garage using a similar set up.

I had the jacks fully extended + 4 12x12 concrete patio stone under each so I think you will still be tight
(my jacks were shorter than yours though)

the trans is very heavy and fairly hard to get to / get to the bolts, I would recommend investing the $80 in a trans jack.

Good think about the trans jack is that you will be able to adjust the angle of the plate, and it has proven useful to me
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 10:52 PM
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Yup, patio stones. I've used them for engine removals in the 996 and many other cars. Hone Depot has them for around $2/ea and buy at least 12
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 6ta1
hi,

I have removed my transmission 4 or 5 times in my garage using a similar set up.

I had the jacks fully extended + 4 12x12 concrete patio stone under each so I think you will still be tight
(my jacks were shorter than yours though)

the trans is very heavy and fairly hard to get to / get to the bolts, I would recommend investing the $80 in a trans jack.

Good think about the trans jack is that you will be able to adjust the angle of the plate, and it has proven useful to me
I have a Big Red 1/2 ton trans jack I purchased a couple of years ago when we did the RX8 clutch. Wouldn't try it without one.

Why'd you remove the trans 4 or 5 times?
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 11:19 PM
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Default Diversions

I didn't get any further today on the trans but I did pick up one of these:

photo (6).JPG

When I tried to remove the rear sway bar I couldn't get the 15mm open end wrench on the jam nut - the end was too wide to fit. So I went to Sears to see if they had a narrow wrench that would fit. They didn't, but this box was $485 and since I've been waiting for the perfect opportunity to buy one and I'm sick and tired of working out of one drawer for all my tools, I bought it.

Unfortunately now I have to fill it with tools...
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:46 AM
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Default Bummer

Rain, rain, rain...
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #15  
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Default A bad sign...

I'm anxious to find whether this is a RMS or IMS leak, or both.

oil leak.jpg

I saved all my parts to a project list at Pelican:
  • Clutch, PP, TOB
  • DM flywheel
  • IMS bearing and tools
  • AOS
  • clutch slave cylinder
  • misc bolts, seals, sealants
  • special install tools
  • clutch lever, pivot, etc

Essentially refurbishing the back end of the motor/trans. Total for all parts is around $4000. I could save a few hundred by not using the sport clutch and pp. If the flywheel is still good I could leave that and save another $800, but at 85k miles I'm not sure that would be prudent. I won't know till I inspect it, but I don't want to have to do this again in 6 months or a year. I'd just assume do it now while i'm in there even if it is a little earlier than it could be.
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