Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-13-2013, 08:18 PM
  #16  
Invius
Rennlist Member
 
Invius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I used ramps, and a jack to support the engine. You definitely need an 18mm deep socket to get the bolts underneath. Other than that, very straightforward.

GL,

DS
Old 05-15-2013, 12:48 AM
  #17  
Litesonic
Pro
 
Litesonic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 557
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WalterRohrl
Thank you, I will, but if this is just a ploy to get me to raid my kids' piggybanks and come downstairs with a bag of cash and take your car off your hands, it will not work! (But the neighbors might!)

Ha Ha...

Nope, just love these cars. This is a really satisfying project, and the rewards are obvious. Makes it feel much younger. And don't we all need that?
Old 05-15-2013, 11:58 AM
  #18  
cmartin214
Intermediate
 
cmartin214's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Are there recommended spots to put the jack or just the center of the engine?
Old 05-15-2013, 12:32 PM
  #19  
PelicanParts.com
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor

 
PelicanParts.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 4,026
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

You can follow these instructions for jack points on your 996:

Jacking Up Your 996
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
Porsche Parts | DIY Tech Articles | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
Old 05-16-2013, 02:59 PM
  #20  
thstone
Instructor
 
thstone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I bought my replacement mounts from Pelican and followed their DIY and it was very easy.
Old 05-16-2013, 07:59 PM
  #21  
PelicanParts.com
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor

 
PelicanParts.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 4,026
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

That's what we like to hear - success!
Old 05-17-2013, 01:29 PM
  #22  
JMLavoie
Racer
 
JMLavoie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
The nut is really on there. One of mine the whole stud threaded out of the mount and I had to take the nut off of the stud in my vice later. Make sure you hit them with some PB Blaster before you start.
I had the same issue with the passenger side mount. The stud threaded off from the mount as the stud/post was quite corroded. Using a vise, I managed to get the flange nut out of the stud after many shots of BD Blaster and a long half-inch wrench. I was a bit worried for a bit as for the 1st 5 minutes, it didn't want to budge as the stud was turning in the vise and darkness was threatening this front-driveway job. I did not expect such good firm Canadian salt rust, eventhough it is a West Coast car.
The car felt somewhat tighter during the drive to work this morning. Both mount's elastomeric rubbers had elongated by about 5 mm - a bit less than expected after 13 yrs and 143k kms. Used Rein's mounts as replacement - same as Pelican but purchased at a Vancouver indie.
Doing it again, I would replace both 18-mm flange nuts as well with new hardware to make it an easier dismount next time.
Old 05-29-2013, 12:01 AM
  #23  
kgoertz
Pro
 
kgoertz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Waterloo, Ontario
Posts: 502
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I did mine a few weeks ago. I just placed a plank under each wheel to give me a few extra inches to work with and it was quicker than using jack stands.

As everyone else indicated, replacing the mounts was straightforward. Since the filter box has to be removed it was a good time to spray-clean my MAF. I also sprayed the dust out of the SAI motor since it was out anyway.

I went with the RSS semi-solid engine mounts. They were double the price of the stock mounts but were still pretty cheap. They look great (FWIW) and should wear better than the stock ones. The car is definitely tighter and the increased noise in the cabin makes the experience a little more what I was expecting from a 911 :-)

Last edited by kgoertz; 05-29-2013 at 09:53 AM.
Old 06-08-2013, 06:54 PM
  #24  
WalterRohrl
Pro
Thread Starter
 
WalterRohrl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Finally got around to doing the mounts today. Waited for the 4year old to take a nap, set the 6 year old up with Spongebob, backed the car on the ramps and started. I literally spent more time finding the correct tools than I did wrenching on the car. I found it easiest to complete one side at a time, figured that would minimize any engine movement while the jack was supporting it, then did the final tightening once both were in. Worked like a charm.

Seat vibration is virtually gone, and the shifting has improved SIGNIFICANTLY with much smoother engagements and less "clunkiness". Left exhaust outlet still hanging a bit lower than the right one though, will have to crawl back under and see how to adjust at a later date (tomorrow's nap time maybe)

I just got the regular mounts from Pelican, very happy with the improvement. Comparing them the old ones were extended by about 1/4" compared to the new ones.
Old 06-08-2013, 08:33 PM
  #25  
Litesonic
Pro
 
Litesonic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 557
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Nicely done!
Old 06-08-2013, 09:02 PM
  #26  
DK570
Racer
 
DK570's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 280
Received 11 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by thstone
I bought my replacement mounts from Pelican and followed their DIY and it was very easy.
X2 I feel dumb for not having done this sooner. Very easy, relatively cheap, and huge driving experience improvement. I hit the nuts with some PB blaster 1 week before while I was changing my oil, then again on the day I installed the new mounts. Still took a breaker bar to get them off, but not too difficult. I put the car on ramps for room to crawl under, then used a floor jack to support the engine.



Quick Reply: Is there any reason not to use ramps when changing engine mounts?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:03 AM.