HPDE cooked brake pads. Am I missing something?
04-30-2013, 01:22 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'll check the backing plate; you mean the spring that holds tension on the pads? I just finished bleeding. The fluid that came out of the calipers was cloudy. There is a lot of pad deposit on the rotors and I think that might be causing the sound. I am going to take it for a drive and try to get some of the pad deposit cleaned off the rotors. I also used my caliper to measure the rotors; on the outside surface I have a 1.1mm lip on the outside. I am assuming this equates to a total of 2mm wear and means that I need to replace the rotors. Any suggestions for rotor replacement other than OE Porsche ones?
In my case it had warped slightly and was causing the grinding/rubbing sound I was hearing. See if maybe that is some of the issue your encountering.
Also have you tried to re-bed your brake pads? I know whenever mine get noisy I hit the highway late at night and do a few 80-0 runs and that quiets them down.
04-30-2013, 07:08 PM
#18
The Penguin King
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The Hawk DTC 60 and 70 are competition pads and pretty popular some racing circles. I raced on them once in a borrowed 944T at VIR and they performed well. Looking at the photos of the rear pads, they definitely got very hot. Did they feel like they were dragging at all? The last time I saw a rear pad that looked like that, it was on a car where the rear pads were dragging and they got cooked.
I don't have any experience with the Ferrodo DS2500 pads so I can't offer any insight there. The DTC70 is a high torque pad. If the DS2500 has a lot less torque, the other possibility is that the DS2500 couldn't keep up so Hawks were giving you too much rear brake and as a result the rears got too hot.
I concur with previous posts. Switch to a better brake fluid. You should flush out the ATE anyway given how hot things got. Can't go wrong with any of the fluids Hardback mentioned.
Yes the PF08 is a great pad! They are not available yet for your rear calipers so you could run PF08 front and PF06 rear. Great combo on your car.
I don't have any experience with the Ferrodo DS2500 pads so I can't offer any insight there. The DTC70 is a high torque pad. If the DS2500 has a lot less torque, the other possibility is that the DS2500 couldn't keep up so Hawks were giving you too much rear brake and as a result the rears got too hot.
I concur with previous posts. Switch to a better brake fluid. You should flush out the ATE anyway given how hot things got. Can't go wrong with any of the fluids Hardback mentioned.
Yes the PF08 is a great pad! They are not available yet for your rear calipers so you could run PF08 front and PF06 rear. Great combo on your car.
05-01-2013, 09:40 PM
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
24 Posts
I was onboard with PSM being the culprit until I jacked up the rear of the car. Both rear wheels make a scraping sounds and will not free spin at all. As soon as I let go with my hand they stop. The back left was worse; which corresponds with the apparent heat I saw which was the worst on the back left. Youtube video to follow.
05-01-2013, 09:49 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 55 Likes
on
36 Posts
Than you have two rear wheels that have stuck pistons. The thing to do is rebuild the piston seals in the calipers. I have some left over seals for cheap from my rebuild if you are interested.
05-01-2013, 11:53 PM
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
24 Posts
are the seals the same thing as the dust boots? I've seen the dust boots for sale on ECS but not anything called a "seal."
Sneaky Pete do you have enough for all 4 brakes or just the rear 2?
youtube video:
No it isn't hollywood but it does demonstrate the dragging.
I don't know why the video double posted either...
Sneaky Pete do you have enough for all 4 brakes or just the rear 2?
youtube video:
I don't know why the video double posted either...
05-02-2013, 12:48 AM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
PSM Cooked brake pads IMO. The C2 is not under braked by any stretch and it's not particularly rear biased, if anything it's biased to the front too much.
As for brake pads, Pagid Yellow. Perfect for drive to the track, drive on track type of pad.
As for brake pads, Pagid Yellow. Perfect for drive to the track, drive on track type of pad.
05-02-2013, 11:37 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 55 Likes
on
36 Posts
I would check Pelican Parts using their catalog diagrams to find out.
05-02-2013, 05:58 PM
#24
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
24 Posts
I went ahead and ordered some sebro rotors from Travis at Rennbay. I'm going to unmount and inspect the calipers before I go buying a ton of other hardware.
05-03-2013, 02:51 PM
#25
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Please post follow-up after rear rotor install
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
Porsche Parts | DIY Tech Articles | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
Porsche Parts | DIY Tech Articles | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
05-08-2013, 05:33 PM
#26
Race Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL Duval County
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
24 Posts
So I got the rotors in and drove the car to the shop where I have lift access. I couldn't help but notice that the squeaking/scraping I had been hearing was gone. When I got the car up on a chassis lift, the wheels spun pretty freely. I even had the on-duty mechanic give me a second opinion that they were spinning freely. Only thing I had done was bend back the dust guards, which I checked today they are clearing the rotors but not by much. Other than that the car just sat for about a week. So I didn't put the new rotors on and it seems to be fine. I am concerned about the wear depth; how/where specifically do you guys measure the rotor wear depth and when do you replace?
05-09-2013, 10:06 AM
#27
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
well I read some, not all this but I didnt see anyone say this
for autoX I doubt you will ever over cook the brakes
for DE - try using LESS brake, firmer/shorter braking
unless you are going for "top speed" just drive down the straight a little slower and work on corner speed increases - I have students limit speeds all the time...and get faster lap times by doing that ???? - think about it
have fun....no matter the resolution the above will be useful
for autoX I doubt you will ever over cook the brakes
for DE - try using LESS brake, firmer/shorter braking
unless you are going for "top speed" just drive down the straight a little slower and work on corner speed increases - I have students limit speeds all the time...and get faster lap times by doing that ???? - think about it
have fun....no matter the resolution the above will be useful
