Window Micro Switch
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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I have a quick question on which micro switch to order.
My passenger window won't go down when you open the door.
I read up that it will be either the inside or outside door handle micro switch.
How do you know which one it is or do you just replace both? Or are the one in the same.
Thanks
Zenski
My passenger window won't go down when you open the door.
I read up that it will be either the inside or outside door handle micro switch.
How do you know which one it is or do you just replace both? Or are the one in the same.
Thanks
Zenski
#2
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It might be the regulator or micro switch. Does it try and drop a little or none when you pull handle? Does it go back up or not at all when you close door? Any extra noise when you lower and raise window?
Mine was just the reg on the pass side. Just changed it the other day. Watch Bentley video, take your time. Make sure you have the plastic trim removal tools and extra door panel clips. The door internals are not at all complicated once you get in there.
"TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it."
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
from Renntech.org
Many detailed write-ups on this located at Renntech.org, join if you havent.
Mine was just the reg on the pass side. Just changed it the other day. Watch Bentley video, take your time. Make sure you have the plastic trim removal tools and extra door panel clips. The door internals are not at all complicated once you get in there.
"TYPICAL FAULTS
All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms:
1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed.
2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up.
3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn.
4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote.
5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason.
6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession.
7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it."
Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides)
Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right)
from Renntech.org
Many detailed write-ups on this located at Renntech.org, join if you havent.
#3
Racer
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I would be more on the door latch microswitch than regulator.
In the lock mechanism, there is a microsw activated by a cam. The sw's plunger is made of plastic and gets worn. The sw is easy to remove from the lock mechanism and can be replaced if you can find a sw replacement.
In my case, I change the whole mechanism and it did the trick.
I had the same problem as you did.
Once you remove the door interior panel and vapor barrier, you should be able to diagnose fairly well. Krazyk's advice to get the info on renntech.org is wise.
Good luck!
In the lock mechanism, there is a microsw activated by a cam. The sw's plunger is made of plastic and gets worn. The sw is easy to remove from the lock mechanism and can be replaced if you can find a sw replacement.
In my case, I change the whole mechanism and it did the trick.
I had the same problem as you did.
Once you remove the door interior panel and vapor barrier, you should be able to diagnose fairly well. Krazyk's advice to get the info on renntech.org is wise.
Good luck!
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
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morning everyone,
I ordered the regulator and it is being delivered today.
How hard is this process of replacing it?
I just read the tech article on Pelican and it doesn't look friendly.
Zenski
I ordered the regulator and it is being delivered today.
How hard is this process of replacing it?
I just read the tech article on Pelican and it doesn't look friendly.
Zenski
#6
Rocky Mountain High
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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The hardest parts are: removing the door panel without damaging the leather and reinstalling the glass in the proper position. Make sure to mark it with tape and/or a Sharpie before you remove it.
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#8
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To check if your door micro switches are faulty you can check their operation either at the door to body connector or at the alarm box ( under seat).
The inside and outside door microswitches for each door are wired in parallel and are normally open ( no handle being operated). When you use inside or outside door handle one switch will close.
You can check operation either at door to body connector ( slacken allen bolt at bottom of connector and seperate. Place ohm meter / lamp across terminals A8 to A3 and check for inside and outside switch operation.
Alternative is to check at alarm box main connector. Remove seat ( 4 bolts) and remove seat electrical harness. Remove alarm box main connector. Check micro switch operation as above. For LHD car Drivers door microswitches are wired between pin 25 and pin 30. Passenger door microswitches are across pin 7 and pin 32
The inside and outside door microswitches for each door are wired in parallel and are normally open ( no handle being operated). When you use inside or outside door handle one switch will close.
You can check operation either at door to body connector ( slacken allen bolt at bottom of connector and seperate. Place ohm meter / lamp across terminals A8 to A3 and check for inside and outside switch operation.
Alternative is to check at alarm box main connector. Remove seat ( 4 bolts) and remove seat electrical harness. Remove alarm box main connector. Check micro switch operation as above. For LHD car Drivers door microswitches are wired between pin 25 and pin 30. Passenger door microswitches are across pin 7 and pin 32
#9
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Make sure you use the PLASTIC trim removal tools so you dont damage the trim and panel. Dont reinstall panel until you are satisifed with the fit/adjustment of window glass and reg.
Remember the airbag procedures so you avoid a warning light.
Remember the airbag procedures so you avoid a warning light.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Hi guys,
well got the new regulator in and I can't get the window to adjust. It seems the new regulator doesn't slide down as far as the old one so my window sticks up about 1 1/2". When I tried to adjust it lowers it, but only effects the window when it's up. Basically still won't go down all the way and is now not going up all the way.
Middle picture is the old regulator that slid all the way down. The image on the right is the new one at its lowest postion (still has about 1 to 2" it could go down).
Any thoughts?
Zenski
well got the new regulator in and I can't get the window to adjust. It seems the new regulator doesn't slide down as far as the old one so my window sticks up about 1 1/2". When I tried to adjust it lowers it, but only effects the window when it's up. Basically still won't go down all the way and is now not going up all the way.
Middle picture is the old regulator that slid all the way down. The image on the right is the new one at its lowest postion (still has about 1 to 2" it could go down).
Any thoughts?
Zenski
#12
Rocky Mountain High
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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It has been a while since I've done a regulator, but as I recall the new regulators are shipped with a little plastic plug in the track that is kept in place for a Boxster and removed for a 996. Could that be the issue?
#13
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new regulators are shipped with a little plastic plug in the track that is kept in place for a Boxster and removed for a 996.