Upgrade rear swaybar only?
#16
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You are correct in your thinking, in theory if you stiffen the rear you can dial out some of the understeer, but I think why some of the guys here are suggesting do the front bar is because it will get rid of some of the roll in the front which is causing the roll induced understeer ... So in this case, although counter intuitive, stiffening the front may actually lessen the understeer. That being said if it were me I’d save up until you can afford both bars to keep the car balanced. There are other options you may consider like trying different tire pressures, adjusting your line, throttle application and apex to get the car to rotate. Investing in a driving coach may go a long way in getting rid of understeer …
But as others have said, I would rather save an get a complete set if you can.
#17
Former Vendor
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Recommendations on where to purchase F&R bars with bushings?
H&R Front Non-adjustable: 26mm
H&R Rear Adjustable: 23mm
![](http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/278535_x600.jpg)
#18
Rennlist Member
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This is correct. The inner wheel can lift thus sacrificing some mechanical grip with just a rear sway bar. Also when driving anything above 8/10's around a track, I would actually prefer a bit of understeer so I can approach the limits more confidently and ultimately go faster. Coupled with the fact that you have increased spring rate in the rear from your H&R's, I would dial in more rear tire pressure effectively increasing your spring rate even more if you still need to dial out understeer. Some guys choose to increase their spring rates rather than sway bar size. There are two schools of thought in regard to more spring and less sway and vice versa. I've driven with just an upgraded rear sway bar and it felt a bit weird to a point where it actually slowed me down around the track. I know quite a few dedicated track guys that have been known to even disconnect their rear sway links for this reason.
But as others have said, I would rather save an get a complete set if you can.
But as others have said, I would rather save an get a complete set if you can.
#19
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Not to question this swaybar discussion but hasnt actual testing proven that tire upgardes show a much more drastic improvement in handling or increasing resistance to G forces than a swaybar diameter/stiffness upgrade?
Or,, are you assuming someone has already maxed out the tire factor with upgrade?
Or,, are you assuming someone has already maxed out the tire factor with upgrade?
#20
Burning Brakes
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Also, diameter doesn't tell the full story. IIRC, even though the front M030s are only 23.6mm, they are thicker wall (they are hollow), than OE 23mm ones, so stiffer than the diameter changes suggest. Have to look at force ratings. I agree with KK also, tires before ARBs, but a single ARB is of course a lot cheaper.
#21
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Also, diameter doesn't tell the full story. IIRC, even though the front M030s are only 23.6mm, they are thicker wall (they are hollow), than OE 23mm ones, so stiffer than the diameter changes suggest. Have to look at force ratings. I agree with KK also, tires before ARBs, but a single ARB is of course a lot cheaper.
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With that said, there isn't one magical formula that will work with everyone's driving style and setup. You really have to get out on the track and experiment and see what works best for you. All of these suggestions should only be taken lightly as a mere starting baseline to begin with.
Tire Pressures are one cheap and effective setting that anyone can do. Start off with the simple stuff first if you don't have the funds to do a full setup.
#22
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Im building the perfect track car setup (in my head). I Might do the swaybar/link mods to improve handling. I have the Mich Pilots already. The GT2 front bar sounds interesting.
#23
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Just to clarify things in this thread...
NB vs WB have different sways, so a GT2 will not fit a C2
M030 is hollow (I have it).
Eibach is solid (I have it).
A slightly stiffer FSB can help improve front grip by reducing dynamic camber loss and roll which reduces lap time, but ultimately the car will still understeer.
Also, too stiff a FSB will worsen understeer
I've posted this before, but here's the sway bar info I gathered before getting mine.
C2/GT3 Sways
Normal front 23.1mm x 3.4mm / rear 18.5mm x 2.5mm
ROW M030 front 23.6mm x 3.6mm / rear 19.6mm x 2.6 mm
GT3 front 26.8mm x 4.0mm / rear 20.7mm x 2.8 mm (5 way adj
front, 4 way adj rear, end links needed)
Eibach C2 front 24.0mm x solid / rear 19.0mm x solid (only rear 3 way adj)
H&R C2 front 26mm / rear 23mm - rear only adj
RUF resells Eibach sways (painted green)
Gemballa resells H&R sways
C4S/Turbo
C4S/TT front 23.6x 3.5mm/ rear 21.7x 3.0mm
GT2 front 26.8x 4.0mm/ rear 20.7x 2.8mm
Eibach TT front 24.0mm x solid / rear 23.0mm x solid (only rear 3 way adj)
H&R C4S front 25mm / rear 24mm - both adjustable
TechArt TT front 23.8mm x ? / rear 23 mm x ?? (front and rear 3 way
adj, end links may be needed)
NB vs WB have different sways, so a GT2 will not fit a C2
M030 is hollow (I have it).
Eibach is solid (I have it).
A slightly stiffer FSB can help improve front grip by reducing dynamic camber loss and roll which reduces lap time, but ultimately the car will still understeer.
Also, too stiff a FSB will worsen understeer
I've posted this before, but here's the sway bar info I gathered before getting mine.
C2/GT3 Sways
Normal front 23.1mm x 3.4mm / rear 18.5mm x 2.5mm
ROW M030 front 23.6mm x 3.6mm / rear 19.6mm x 2.6 mm
GT3 front 26.8mm x 4.0mm / rear 20.7mm x 2.8 mm (5 way adj
front, 4 way adj rear, end links needed)
Eibach C2 front 24.0mm x solid / rear 19.0mm x solid (only rear 3 way adj)
H&R C2 front 26mm / rear 23mm - rear only adj
RUF resells Eibach sways (painted green)
Gemballa resells H&R sways
C4S/Turbo
C4S/TT front 23.6x 3.5mm/ rear 21.7x 3.0mm
GT2 front 26.8x 4.0mm/ rear 20.7x 2.8mm
Eibach TT front 24.0mm x solid / rear 23.0mm x solid (only rear 3 way adj)
H&R C4S front 25mm / rear 24mm - both adjustable
TechArt TT front 23.8mm x ? / rear 23 mm x ?? (front and rear 3 way
adj, end links may be needed)
#24
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First off you're probably getting mixed up as the GT2 is RWD and not awd like the C4S and Turbo models. NB and WB doesn't really have anything to do with it. It's the drivetrain layout that determines sway bar compatibility.
For example, the GT2 swaybars both f/r are exactly the same as the GT3 bars. We know GT3 bars fit C2 models(have them on my car) so GT2 bars should fit. After all, they are the same part #'s.
Secondly, if the M030 are indeed hollow then the 23.6mm sizing compared to the solid 23.1mm sizing of the normal sways, that to me would indicate a less effective roll resistance with the 23.6mm as you would need significant larger bar size given the hollow nature to be as effective as a solid 23.1mm.
Do you know how much your hollow M030 bar weighs?
#25
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You sure about that?
First off you're probably getting mixed up as the GT2 is RWD and not awd like the C4S and Turbo models. NB and WB doesn't really have anything to do with it. It's the drivetrain layout that determines sway bar compatibility.
For example, the GT2 swaybars both f/r are exactly the same as the GT3 bars. We know GT3 bars fit C2 models(have them on my car) so GT2 bars should fit. After all, they are the same part #'s.
Secondly, if the M030 are indeed hollow then the 23.6mm sizing compared to the solid 23.1mm sizing of the normal sways, that to me would indicate a less effective roll resistance with the 23.6mm as you would need significant larger bar size given the hollow nature to be as effective as a solid 23.1mm.
Do you know how much your hollow M030 bar weighs?
First off you're probably getting mixed up as the GT2 is RWD and not awd like the C4S and Turbo models. NB and WB doesn't really have anything to do with it. It's the drivetrain layout that determines sway bar compatibility.
For example, the GT2 swaybars both f/r are exactly the same as the GT3 bars. We know GT3 bars fit C2 models(have them on my car) so GT2 bars should fit. After all, they are the same part #'s.
Secondly, if the M030 are indeed hollow then the 23.6mm sizing compared to the solid 23.1mm sizing of the normal sways, that to me would indicate a less effective roll resistance with the 23.6mm as you would need significant larger bar size given the hollow nature to be as effective as a solid 23.1mm.
Do you know how much your hollow M030 bar weighs?
i have never heard of a NB with a GT2 sway, but I suppose it is possible. The GT2 shares suspension bits in addition to the chassis with the 996 WB / TT cars, but as you point out, the GT2 is RWD. I would be happy to be wrong as that would provide another sway bar option for me.
#26
Burning Brakes
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If your goal is getting better time on the track then get better tires before sway bars. Also it sounds like you have installed sport springs without upgraded shocks which is not the best idea for a DE car. I would rectify that before sway bars. Some cheap things as other said to dial out understeer is play with tire pressure and try to get as much camber in the front. Some toe adjustments help too. Bars does help stabilize the car making the driver feel more confident in the turns and it can be used to tune out over/understeer, but you have other things to take care of such as shocks and better tires hat would benifit you more.
#27
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You sure about that?
First off you're probably getting mixed up as the GT2 is RWD and not awd like the C4S and Turbo models. NB and WB doesn't really have anything to do with it. It's the drivetrain layout that determines sway bar compatibility.
For example, the GT2 swaybars both f/r are exactly the same as the GT3 bars. We know GT3 bars fit C2 models(have them on my car) so GT2 bars should fit. After all, they are the same part #'s.
Secondly, if the M030 are indeed hollow then the 23.6mm sizing compared to the solid 23.1mm sizing of the normal sways, that to me would indicate a less effective roll resistance with the 23.6mm as you would need significant larger bar size given the hollow nature to be as effective as a solid 23.1mm.
Do you know how much your hollow M030 bar weighs?
First off you're probably getting mixed up as the GT2 is RWD and not awd like the C4S and Turbo models. NB and WB doesn't really have anything to do with it. It's the drivetrain layout that determines sway bar compatibility.
For example, the GT2 swaybars both f/r are exactly the same as the GT3 bars. We know GT3 bars fit C2 models(have them on my car) so GT2 bars should fit. After all, they are the same part #'s.
Secondly, if the M030 are indeed hollow then the 23.6mm sizing compared to the solid 23.1mm sizing of the normal sways, that to me would indicate a less effective roll resistance with the 23.6mm as you would need significant larger bar size given the hollow nature to be as effective as a solid 23.1mm.
Do you know how much your hollow M030 bar weighs?
There is more factors on the swaybars than just diameter, steel's do have diffrent tensilestrenght's
And for the hollow vs solid, outersurface of tube/rod takes the most of the torgue. Closer you get to the center, less it resist's.
So becouse of that, the hollow doesn't need to be much larger in diameter.
To OP, stiffer front sway will make your inner tyre to lift easyer. So I would go with the rear sway first.
#29