Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations

I would buy a case of JG BR break in oil to use as a 100 mile flush before chaining oil. This lessens cross pollination from one vastly different base oil to another and it does make a huge difference on the first two oil services after switching to DT40. I know this. Here I assemble engines with JGR assembly lube and break them in on JGR BR break in oil, then use DT40 from that point forward. I ensure that no deviation is made at all, for any reason and it works phenomenally well. For engines that see track service we then apply JGR XP-9 (which we developed from just an experimental base oil of "Lubrizol "980" into the XP9, much like DT40.

DT40 is NOT designed to be utilized for on-track activities, it is a street oil just like any other and it must maintain its ability to hold up for 5K mile service intervals. All of my engines that see even one day of track service utilize XP-9 and that product is only good for 750 miles before the additive packages are depleted.
So, in other words don't track your car on DT-40.


It takes more than patience. I am too damn intense for this.

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

Here is a quick cheat sheet on oils I put together. Covers break in, intermediate, and final oils.

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

Here is a quick cheat sheet on oils I put together. Covers break in, intermediate, and final oils.

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

For newer (water-cooled) Porsche vehicles after break-in period:
Under warranty, use Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40 or equivalent MID-SAPS 5w40
Porsche approved lubricant for year round use. Do not use a LOW-SAPS or
emissions system protection lubricant under any circumstances.

Originally Posted by Prairiedawg

Hi Charles, Do you still recommend the Motul oil for under warranty engines for a 2012 9A1? If not, which one? I would prefer the DI40 but the car is under a CPO warranty and want the dealer to perform oil changes for documentation purposes. I don't think DI40 is Porsche approved yet? I realize this is the 996 forum but everyone loves the oil threads.

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

I run DI40 and just do used oil analysis and do oil changes at half the factory interval. The proof is in the UOA.

Originally Posted by wkf94025

How often do you run UOA? I realize you're not in the same situation as most of us. ;-)

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

Unless you use the A40 approved additive package in an approved base stock, you're not going to be able to get A40 approval, so are no plans for any Driven oil to get Porsche approval.

They are still recommending an A40 oil, so Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40 is one of the oils I would recommend for a vehicle under warranty and just do more frequent oil changes.

I'll just tell you what I do in my current CPO Mercedes, like what I did with my previous CPO Macan, which both are direct injected. I run DI40 and just do used oil analysis and do oil changes at half the factory interval. The proof is in the UOA.

The Mercedes fill is $3.49 retail in Chicago per quart. I don't want that swill in my engine!

Originally Posted by Prairiedawg

Thank you for your advice. I will use the Motul you recommend when its due at the dealership. From what I understand most dealers will use customer oil as long as its Porsche approved and I would like to have the dealer documentation of the work. I would much prefer the DI40 as it seems to me the layman, a better lubricant. I have read some technical articles regarding moly (in the form of MoDTC) reacting with zinc under pressure forming glass like compounds that reduce friction in cylinder walls substantially. Kind of looks like the magic bullet of wear reduction. Unfortunately I haven't found any oil additives (and not sure I would trust if there were) that contain molybdenum dithiocarbamate. I'll have to wait until the CPO warranty is over before I switch. I only plan on putting a couple thousand miles a year on until then.

Also, how do you get around the CPO requirements for the Mercedes? Does the DI40 meet them?

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

There have been other threads on LM products. Ceratec boosts moly content approximately 300 ppm, but if you use Driven DI40 that puts you at 300 ppm without need for additives. DT40 has double and comes in at 600 ppm.

The Mercedes dealership did not give me an grief with bringing my own oil. It only goes every 10k to the dealership for major service - intermediate service every 5k we do in our shop.

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro

There have been other threads on LM products. Ceratec boosts moly content approximately 300 ppm, but if you use Driven DI40 that puts you at 300 ppm without need for additives. DT40 has double and comes in at 600 ppm.

The Mercedes dealership did not give me an grief with bringing my own oil. It only goes every 10k to the dealership for major service - intermediate service every 5k we do in our shop.

Originally Posted by sasilverbullet

Charles,
Earlier in the thread Jake said that when switching oils to DT-40 (street use) it's best to run some JG break in oil, then put in the DT-40.
1. There are a few different types of GB break in oil, which should I use? (2003 C2 w/108K miles)

• BR Break-In, Mineral, 15W50
• BR Break-In, Mineral, 10W40, ZDDP Enhanced
• Racing Break-In BR, Mineral, 5W30

2. How many miles should I run the break in oil before switching to DT-40?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by LexVan

/\you want to use the BR30 for about 300 miles for your flush. Then go to the DT40. This gives you peak performance from the Driven products sooner, because their additive packages fight others, especially Mobil's.

Originally Posted by sasilverbullet

I'm currently using Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5w-40 & Ceratec.

Still 300 miles on the break in oil?