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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 01:06 PM
  #16  
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The water pump that I replaced LAST year is now sans the impeller blades(?!
Was the water pump OE or an aftermarket brand?
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Would you please post the details on the water pump you bought? I think many here would like to know the brand.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 01:19 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kbollaert
99 996 with 109k. Engine died at idle, wouldn't start again. Turns over such that the motor is having valve interference issues. No oil under the car at all.
Oil pressure at idle was running fairly low, with the dreaded white smoke cloud at high rpm.
My conclusion: timing chain tensioner dropped, allowing one chain to skip a tooth. Since this is a fairly high milage motor, with low oil pressure, I'm going to overhaul it.
My question: As an aircraft mechanic, I think that the in house overhaul would be the best, most cost effective way. Since I've not overhauled one of these before, any suggestions? I'm looking for a good source of the parts, services, and materials needed. Also, any recommendations for a rebuilder in the SE US? (Just in case)....
Thanks
Measure the cylinder bores for wear & consider having oversize sleeves installed
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #18  
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Update: Just a few pictures showing the particular failure modes on this engine. I didn't bother with the rest of the pictures showing the removal and dismantling: who needs that after the great job the Logray did with his?
The most disturbing (annoying) is the $350.00 water pump that lasted around 18 months or so. I couldn't tell you where I bought the waterpump from: I believe it was from Pelican Parts, IIRC. The damage pattern looks like one vane gave away and took out the others. A serious system flush is in order here.
I also show the 1-3 intake cam where it broke.
The third picture shows how I held the variocam actuators closed using 0.032" safetywire.
On a side note: While I could have raised the rear of the car higher to clear the motor, I instead opted to remove the MAF and intake risers. This allowed me to keep the car on the jackstands without having to add wood blocks to the jack in order to get it high enough.
All of the bearing surfaces, crankshaft, camshafts (except the broken one), etc. are in very good condition. I'm now waiting for the heads, crank and rods to come back from the shops so I can proceed on to the next phase.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:55 PM
  #19  
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Hard to tell from the pics but is the waterpump impellers cast metal?

Any OEM part number markings on it?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:06 PM
  #20  
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I'll look when I get home next week, and post the results.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #21  
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A snapped camshaft! Don't see that everyday. Good luck with the rebuild!
So water pump went that leads to overheat and destruction of the engine?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
A snapped camshaft! Don't see that everyday. Good luck with the rebuild!
So water pump went that leads to overheat and destruction of the engine?
The last time I had a snapped camshaft was in a BMW I bought used when a previous owner or some one that worked on the car forgot to torque the cam holders to spec. One got loose and vibrating a few others loose. However this happened on Hollow camshaft. Until then, I never seen a backfire happen on the intake side(as oppose to the exhaust muffler) before.

I wonder if there was previous work with lifter replacement or anything of that sort?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #23  
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with that water pump busted, didn't you get high water temp gauge blinking on the dash ?
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 12:09 PM
  #24  
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No high temp indications whatsoever! I was really surprised when I removed it.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #25  
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This pump did not have a metal impeller, right??
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by alpine003
The last time I had a snapped camshaft was in a BMW I bought used when a previous owner or some one that worked on the car forgot to torque the cam holders to spec. One got loose and vibrating a few others loose. However this happened on Hollow camshaft. Until then, I never seen a backfire happen on the intake side(as oppose to the exhaust muffler) before.

I wonder if there was previous work with lifter replacement or anything of that sort?
996 cams are hollow too.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #27  
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I just spoke to the machine shop where I'm having my crank/rods magnafluxed and polished. He can't find the specs for the crankshaft journals. Anyone? Hello, PCNA? Hello?
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #28  
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In re: the questions about the broken cam:
the saddle brackets seemed to be torqued the same as the rest of the mounts, so no problem there. I looked at the break to see if a crack might have been preexisting, and propagated through the cam. Nothing as seen through a magnifier. As I recall, this cam was solid, but I'll check when I get back. There was no heat discoloration anywhere indicating an overheat condition. I'm going to have the cams magnafluxed anyway, just in case.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 05:01 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kbollaert
I just spoke to the machine shop where I'm having my crank/rods magnafluxed and polished. He can't find the specs for the crankshaft journals. Anyone? Hello, PCNA? Hello?
They don't exist. We've had to create our own, thats why I am writing the book on it.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
They don't exist. We've had to create our own, thats why I am writing the book on it.
Great! When are you going to publish? Can't wait!
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