speed rII

Lunio, I listened you videos, and your engine sounds a lot like mine when the rod baring failed.
Only diffrence is, that I had oilpan full of metal debries...

I have read that these engine have failed becouse of loose rodbolt, so this might be the case?
I would suggest that you do one simple test to roughly check the rodbearing clearance.

Remove sparkplugs, use long rod that fit's thru the sparkplug hole. Put the rod against the piston top and rotate the engine until you feel the piston going down. Now push the rod, and if you feel the piston going down, you have find your fault.

My engine had 97k km's when the bearing broke....

lunio666

I did that test before I took camshaft cover... But I not found any movement of piston...

speed rII

Ok, did you run the engine with out the aux.belt? Just to rule out that the noise might be coming out side of the engine.

I think that there was a poster with similar noise, that turned out to be waterpump.

lunio666

Yes I did that test as well and I still had tapping noise. I just thinking to replace this chain tensioner on that bank because is leaking and when oil viscosity dropping with temp can leak even more and not keep chain tight enough and this can cause timing change on that bank...

What I will do is I will reassemble engine with new parts and I will see if this will help if not I will take engine from the car and completely take on a part and rebuild.

KrazyK

Could you please keep us posted with your progress as you have time? Maybe more photos?

lunio666

What photos you are interested?

KrazyK

If you take (or took) some more photos as you reassemble, then test the engine, or if you found anything else during inspection. It helps others (like me) learn by seeing the parts after X number of miles of use.

lunio666

Ok I will.

lunio666

Hi everyone,

After I replaced all lifters still I had tapping noise.... I decided to open engine and check crankshaft bearings..

Hear you can see the photos..

https://picasaweb.google.com/1056768...eat=directlink

I notice that engine wast open before and engine case was welded hear is a photo..

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

What make a crack in this case that they need to welded??

KrazyK

Have you taken any measurements? What are the main and rod bearing clearances? I also thought that your tapping noise sounded like a valvetrain noise and not a main or rod.

speed rII

Hi Lunio,

Your bearing's look's to be done for.

Measure the crankshaft and bearingcarrier´s bearing line.
By looking the wearpatterns on your mainbearings, it looks that your crank might be slightly bent, or the bearingline in the bearingcarries is not correct.

Remember to change all the bolts when you put it back to gether.
Head bolts with 10,9 stamped on them can be used again.

Imo000

I don't think any of those bearings are worn enough to make the engine tap. That weld on the block probably came from and external damage. Broven over a large rock, bottommed out or romething similar.

speed rII

Welds are on the top side of the block, so this seem's un likely
Oil fillertube is on that hole next to welds.

For the bearing's, I would say that the rod bearings are worn enough to make tappinig noise. But of course, cant be 100% sure

speed rII

Oh, and I have read that Porsche did repair some block's with casting problem's.

Porsche sold 996's "too fast", so they needed to repair all the blocks that could be saved....

Imo000

Ahh ok. Thanks, I didn't realize that thatnwasnthe oil tube hole