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$1400 to replace waterpump!?

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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 12:56 PM
  #16  
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I plan to proactively have my water pump replaced next month, along with a coolant flush and serpt. belt. I figue after 7 driving seasons and 50,000 miles this is cheap insurance. But, does the thermostat need to be done too? Thanks.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #17  
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If you are Proactivley replacing the water pump... you might as well go the extra step and do the thermostat as well.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #18  
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Do the replacement water pumps come the way they were made (plastic impellers?) or have they made the part more robust?

I am just curious because I had mine swapped while my IMS was being done just for the heck of it while everything was opened up.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Steve2112
Do the replacement water pumps come the way they were made (plastic impellers?) or have they made the part more robust?

I am just curious because I had mine swapped while my IMS was being done just for the heck of it while everything was opened up.
I do not think the OEM factory water pumps have changed. Still plastic impellers.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #20  
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My pump failed and wobbled in the process which caused the pulley to shave the belt....but you really should change the belt anyway. If you do it yourself you have to factor the cost of towing it back to your house in the economics plus whatever the dealer may charge for diagnostics.

I did mine myself based on a DIY I found either here or on Pelican (ingore the gasket sealer part). I offer the following:
Parts were about $450 +/- but I changed the water pump, one hose, thermostat and t'stat housing (easier that way, Tstats go bad in Florida...$58 total), gaskets, serp belt, tensioner pulley which was starting to make noise since I was in there. No out of the ordinary tools needed.
Wear gloves
Due to the fact that the failed bearing allowed wobble I'm glad the pump impeller was plastic and I'm glad the new one is too otherwise I'm sure I would be missing some metal on the housing casting. I flushed and got a few small pcs out
I bought the coolant, hose, and coolant drain plug washer at the dealer and surprisingly, they gave me an on the spot discount which equaled online pricing and consulted one of the techs for me on the coolant mix and volume
I bought an airlift to vac out the system before refill. Not necessary but worked really well ($99) and I've since used it for two other vehicles.
It wasnt so much that I saved money from the dealer, which was signficant, but I enjoyed every minute of it. It was my first major DIY repair on the car and I learned how to put it on jackstands, learned my way around the engine, used the savings to buy some better tools (you guys have heard the .."it's not what I spent, it's what I saved" defense), larger floor jack, pneumatics, etc., and since have changed the plugs, tubes, and connectors, did a gut rehab on the front suspension and will be doing the rear brakes myself later. The savings, and justifiable tool purchases, are cumalative.
Nothing wrong with the dealer though if you go that route, you'll get a good job done right in my experience.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Jackstand Louie
My pump failed and wobbled in the process which caused the pulley to shave the belt....but you really should change the belt anyway. If you do it yourself you have to factor the cost of towing it back to your house in the economics plus whatever the dealer may charge for diagnostics.

I did mine myself based on a DIY I found either here or on Pelican (ingore the gasket sealer part). I offer the following:
Parts were about $450 +/- but I changed the water pump, one hose, thermostat and t'stat housing (easier that way, Tstats go bad in Florida...$58 total), gaskets, serp belt, tensioner pulley which was starting to make noise since I was in there. No out of the ordinary tools needed.
Wear gloves
Due to the fact that the failed bearing allowed wobble I'm glad the pump impeller was plastic and I'm glad the new one is too otherwise I'm sure I would be missing some metal on the housing casting. I flushed and got a few small pcs out
I bought the coolant, hose, and coolant drain plug washer at the dealer and surprisingly, they gave me an on the spot discount which equaled online pricing and consulted one of the techs for me on the coolant mix and volume
I bought an airlift to vac out the system before refill. Not necessary but worked really well ($99) and I've since used it for two other vehicles.
It wasnt so much that I saved money from the dealer, which was signficant, but I enjoyed every minute of it. It was my first major DIY repair on the car and I learned how to put it on jackstands, learned my way around the engine, used the savings to buy some better tools (you guys have heard the .."it's not what I spent, it's what I saved" defense), larger floor jack, pneumatics, etc., and since have changed the plugs, tubes, and connectors, did a gut rehab on the front suspension and will be doing the rear brakes myself later. The savings, and justifiable tool purchases, are cumalative.
Nothing wrong with the dealer though if you go that route, you'll get a good job done right in my experience.
Man after my own Heart..
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 03:52 PM
  #22  
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*As my new water pump and control arm sits (for the 3rd weekend a row) in the garage to be installed* I'm realizing I'm getting tired of doing this stuff. Maybe it's the heat.

Originally Posted by Jackstand Louie
My pump failed and wobbled in the process which caused the pulley to shave the belt....but you really should change the belt anyway. If you do it yourself you have to factor the cost of towing it back to your house in the economics plus whatever the dealer may charge for diagnostics.

I did mine myself based on a DIY I found either here or on Pelican (ingore the gasket sealer part). I offer the following:
Parts were about $450 +/- but I changed the water pump, one hose, thermostat and t'stat housing (easier that way, Tstats go bad in Florida...$58 total), gaskets, serp belt, tensioner pulley which was starting to make noise since I was in there. No out of the ordinary tools needed.
Wear gloves
Due to the fact that the failed bearing allowed wobble I'm glad the pump impeller was plastic and I'm glad the new one is too otherwise I'm sure I would be missing some metal on the housing casting. I flushed and got a few small pcs out
I bought the coolant, hose, and coolant drain plug washer at the dealer and surprisingly, they gave me an on the spot discount which equaled online pricing and consulted one of the techs for me on the coolant mix and volume
I bought an airlift to vac out the system before refill. Not necessary but worked really well ($99) and I've since used it for two other vehicles.
It wasnt so much that I saved money from the dealer, which was signficant, but I enjoyed every minute of it. It was my first major DIY repair on the car and I learned how to put it on jackstands, learned my way around the engine, used the savings to buy some better tools (you guys have heard the .."it's not what I spent, it's what I saved" defense), larger floor jack, pneumatics, etc., and since have changed the plugs, tubes, and connectors, did a gut rehab on the front suspension and will be doing the rear brakes myself later. The savings, and justifiable tool purchases, are cumalative.
Nothing wrong with the dealer though if you go that route, you'll get a good job done right in my experience.
Reply
Old Aug 9, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #23  
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http://www.brandsmartusa.com/Product...ia-Appliances/

For the garage......easily justified with labor savings from waterpump and control arm replacement.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 04:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Steve2112
Do the replacement water pumps come the way they were made (plastic impellers?) or have they made the part more robust?

I am just curious because I had mine swapped while my IMS was being done just for the heck of it while everything was opened up.
You can use the 997 water pump. The impeller's durability was improved. Or you can use a billet impeller from LN engineering. However, water pumps should be changed as preventative maintenance if your car still has its original. The blades will break eventually and could cause damage to the cooling system. There are many older threads on this forum debating the replacement.

When I replaced mine during a rebuild 2 fins were chipped.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 04:46 PM
  #25  
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I have one, after 3 years I've come to realize standard window units produce better results since they don't have to waste half the advertise BTU's to expel the hot air. I'm waiting on window units to go on sale as I type.

Originally Posted by Jackstand Louie
http://www.brandsmartusa.com/Product...ia-Appliances/

For the garage......easily justified with labor savings from waterpump and control arm replacement.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Hey all,
When I look up the part number for the 996 water pump, I get p/n 996 106 011 53

I found one that *should* fit at 996, but the P/N is 996 106 101

Anyone know what is different? Will this fit a 996?

Thanks!
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #27  
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When I picked up my car at EPE today, Jerry showed me all the parts he removed (as has been his standard practice for the 20 years I have done business with him, every single part, down to the gaskets). He calls it"the tour".

He had recommended I have him replace the rollers. There are 3. Two of them had a definite "grainey" feel to them as I spun them on their bearings. They were a cheap wyait......

I note people talk about burping and checking the coolant level after the water pump is replaced. I highly recommend that be done several times. Jerry's guys did it after a heat cycle. After I drove it 100 miles, the low coolant level indicator light came on. It took 20 ounces more. Not leaking a drop, lot of air gets trapped in that puppy!

Oh yeah, stock water pump still has a plastic impeller. And it is AMAZING how loose that ***** can get without leaking!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by washington dc porsche
*As my new water pump and control arm sits (for the 3rd weekend a row) in the garage to be installed* I'm realizing I'm getting tired of doing this stuff. Maybe it's the heat.
What he said...
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 12:55 AM
  #29  
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gretch what rollers? for the belt?
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #30  
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Rollers, also called the pulleys that the belts ride on. They wear out over time.
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