Staff@WORLD

I had a 997turbo that was driving us crazy with a steering noise after it was lowered. Everything was tight. Finally I disconnected the front sway bar end links and the noise was gone. I had some adjustable front end links made and set the end links to the correct height for the lowered vehicle and that cured the problem. The sway bar really needs to be at the correct angle to prevent those noises when the steering wheel is at full lock.

perryinva

Replaced both sides, inner and outer tie rods. $200 in parts, $55 for Gudcraft ITR Tool kit from Amazon & $15 for OTR ball joint removal tool from Napa. Took 90 min to do both sides ( I have a lift, makes it a bit easier). Noise is finally GONE. Very easy job with the right tools. Had new tires on the car, so was going to get an alignment anyway. Mechanic told me toe was almost perfect.

Jackstand Louie

How did the Gudcraft work out? All my front end parts arrive Monday and I will be re-installing. I measured the Lisle ITR tool 1-1/4" insert and it was out by over 1/32" which, coupled with the slot in the tool allows the jaw to flex and round off the bolt. Two other inserts were out by as much but the rest were dead on.

The Gudcraft looks more substantial and the insert is captive so it cant flex.

Now..about that lift? Dannmar?

I like this one b/c it alread has my car in it in the ad so I know it will work.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6167_200386167

perryinva

The Gudcraft worked like a champ. The 1 1/4" was slightly wider, but not sloppy. A 1/2" breaker bar fits in the base and each ITR just came right out, no muss or fuss. Was easily able to torque the new ones in with Loctite Red with the same tool. The hardest part is honestly snapping off the SS clamp that holds the accordion boot in place. Pick yourself up a pair of #36 hose clamps and you will be set. I took pics and will post. The difference in the steering feel was significant. I didn't realize there was that much binding going on, no wonder it was so noisy. Had the alignment done today, -0.5 camber front, -1.6 rear, 2mm toe front, 3mm toe rear, with my PSS9s set to 117F and 129R, measured at the 996 measure points. Didn't have a chance to test high speed stability yet, but so far it feels great.

I bought my lift in 2009 in a group buy for $1200. Nothing that fancy, but it works exactly as shown, and fits my needs perfectly in my 8 1/2' ceiling garage, with one of the biggest ones being I can store it when not using it. www.ezcarlift.com

OZ951

I also had a case of a suspension rattle/clunk that was solved by replacing the tie rod end. I thought I had cured the noise by tightening up the damper strut lock nut - that solved the noise I could hear when cold but it did not cure the noise that was present when warm. The 'warm noise' was the tie rod end.. a very slight amount of play could be felt and a tiny clunk could be heard when yanking on the tie rod. I have just put a 1000 miles on it over the past few days and the noise is definitely gone.

AndyK

I am guessing it's easier to just get a new set of tie rods (complete units) and replace, right? Instead of buying all the tools, I'd just have someone install them.

Anyone know how many hours are budgeted for the job if a mechanic does it?

perryinva

Any more than 2 hrs for all 4 TREs + an alignment is stretching it. Parts will run just a bit more than $200 if you use TRW links.

wrljet

What is the correct Metric size?