AndyK

I've had a suspension clunk when the car gets warm for years. When I brought it to my mechanic, he said don't worry about it, everything is tight, and it could be the shock mounts, not worth investigating. OK. I took it to another mechanic, who basically said the same thing.

After doing research on Rennlist and Renntech, I read about how the drop links were a cause of clunking, and a relatively easy fix.

Picking a 92 degree morning to do the repair wasn't my best decision, but finally, after several trips to the hardware store for tools that I didn't have (metric flat wrenches, 18mm deep socket), and after figuring out you have to straighten the wheel to get these things out and in...

my problem is solved!! The car doesn't clunk over every little bump in the road, and I think the car handles better in the curves (better connection to anti sway bar = better handling, right?)!

Well worth the $70 for the parts!!

996_North

Always nice when you can solve the problem with a wrench or two ! Glad this worked out for you !

Tim Wasmer

That was my first thought

Cheap and easy to do. Now put some miles on that car

Glad you fixed it

vange_c4s

well done diy.

AndyK

I take it back - the clunk has returned! I guess it wasn't the drop links after all. Blah! Probably the tie rods?

sjfehr

Are the drop links adjustable? Did they back out?

AndyK

Not the stock drop links. I just torqued the hell out of them. Doubt they came loose in 10 miles.

996_North

I had some issues with mysterious clunks and creaks as well (when warm). My indy couldn't find out what it was so he just injected grease into many of the various bushings etc. I drove it a few miles to work in the grease,and viola ! no more noises. I nice stop gap until I redo the suspension.

AndyK

This is what kills me. Mechanics (like doctors) are great at finding the obvious, but when it's not obvious, we're on our own!

Cens

As an engineer that deals with high end medical equipment, intermittent and hard to diagnose problems are so difficult to solve. Hopefully you find a mechanic that will give you some options to look for. It saves down time and money for you. But like a doctor, if they don't give you the answer you want, you can always go get a second opinion.

LC MotorSports

Check the Sway bar bushings next... then the inner tie rod ends.... then the Camber plates... then the rubber bushings both at the Caster bushing and LCR bushing at the sub frame.... If you see any cracks in the rubber they are either going or Gone!

AndyK

Good points.

If one or both sway bar bushings are shot, how hard is it to replace them ?

LC MotorSports

Rears are very simple as they are right in plain sight. Fronts take a little more work. 1st disconnect (at least 1) the drop links. Take the under skirting off (to get at the front bushings) remove the 2 mounting bolts for each bushing, slip off the cap, spread open the bushing and pull off the sway bar. This is a great DIY project. While you are under the car checking the sway bar bushings, inspect the "other" rubber mounting points. Any cracking indicates that they are gone or going... Feel free to call if you have any trouble.

Tim Wasmer

Ok, my point is if they disappeared and then POOF they are back. I Would make double sure all is tightened up well.

Toss parts and labor at it as you will. But double check human error.

AndyK

I hear ya, I'll double check to see if they loosened up before spending any more money on parts!