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Had 60k service performed today. The dealer explained that I have a leak in the main seal. Is there anything else I should have replaced while they are making the repair?
clutch - because it will fail before too long and the labour is efectively free if you are opening it up to replace the Rear Main Seal.
Intermediate Shaft Bearing using either the LN Engineering aftermarket or factory parts available from Pelican. This part is strongly believed to be a failure risk
Air Oil Seperator - it's easier to do with th etransmission out of the way. It's not likely to fail in a 3.6 litre car - but it is cheap so why not.
***That all said though...it's not worth going in just to repair the RMS. It's not hurting anything by leaking or weeping a bit. You have the option of leaving it as it is and waiting for the clutch to fail...then doing all that work.
My RMS has been "weaping" since I got the car in '07. Aside from a drop of oil on the garage floor once in a while, I'm fine with a weaper until my clutch goes!
Another vote to wait to fix it if it's only a small leak. Super common issue and doesn't really hurt anything as long as it's only a drop or two now and then. If you're getting puddles, then that's a different story.
Had my AOS replaced 2 weeks ago. Would that have been a good time to do the clutch? I am thinking yes.
Not if they went at the AOS from up top. But yes, if they removed the transmission to do the AOS then it might have been a good idea, depending on what mileage is on the clutch of course.
I think it's less effort to remove the intake than it is to remove the transmission...and I think it's easier to do the AOS from up top with the intake removed so I'll wager that's what was done.
Had my AOS replaced 2 weeks ago. Would that have been a good time to do the clutch? I am thinking yes.
Not if they went at the AOS from up top. But yes, if they removed the transmission to do the AOS then it might have been a good idea, depending on what mileage is on the clutch of course.
I think it's less effort to remove the intake than it is to remove the transmission...and I think it's easier to do the AOS from up top with the intake removed so I'll wager that's what was done.
Both methods are a pain though..
Thanks Jasper. Only 53k on the car and clutch is fine now but it's getting close to that time.
clutch - because it will fail before too long and the labour is efectively free if you are opening it up to replace the Rear Main Seal.
Intermediate Shaft Bearing using either the LN Engineering aftermarket or factory parts available from Pelican. This part is strongly believed to be a failure risk
Air Oil Seperator - it's easier to do with th etransmission out of the way. It's not likely to fail in a 3.6 litre car - but it is cheap so why not.
***That all said though...it's not worth going in just to repair the RMS. It's not hurting anything by leaking or weeping a bit. You have the option of leaving it as it is and waiting for the clutch to fail...then doing all that work.
Well just keep in mind that oil is going on your clutch. May not bother you - but I know it bothers the clutch plate - ask me about my $1400 flywheel bc PO didn't replace it - new clutch at 35k
Well just keep in mind that oil is going on your clutch. May not bother you - but I know it bothers the clutch plate - ask me about my $1400 flywheel bc PO didn't replace it - new clutch at 35k
Absolutely a possibility - I replaced the clutch on my BMW K75S this winter for exactly that reason. But in that case the leak was severe. If the leak is minor then it's hard for that oil to get up and around and onto the clutch again.
It depends on how bad the leak is. Weeping shouldn't be a concern at all, a drop once every few days I'd be pricking up my ears, a puddle of any description and it would need to be addressed.
Comes down to risk tolerance and finances largely.
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