My mechanic is stumped. Need help from Rennlisters Please.........
#1
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2003 c2 6mt w/ 41k on the clock.
First the car would die at idle sitting at a light . After a minute it would start back up and go with no issues. This happened once a day for three days.
On the fourth day the RPM's at idle would start to fluctuate between 700 and 1300.
This would go on for about a minute and then power would start to cut in and out while in gear at cruising speed and then die. Check engine light would come on at this point.
After a minute would start back up.
This would always happen about 10 minutes after initial start or right about when it got to operating temp.
My mechanic which has over 20 years experience with P-cars originally thought it was the crank sensor. Replaced it and reset the codes.
Picked up the car and went for a fairly spirited drive that evening redlining first three gears a few times. Car felt great with no problems whatsoever.
On the drive to work the next day same thing happened again! Rough idle, engine cuts out, check engine light comes on. Went back to shop and they're trying to figure it out.
The hourly rate for diagnosis is killing me!!!!!!!
Has this happened to anyone before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated......
First the car would die at idle sitting at a light . After a minute it would start back up and go with no issues. This happened once a day for three days.
On the fourth day the RPM's at idle would start to fluctuate between 700 and 1300.
This would go on for about a minute and then power would start to cut in and out while in gear at cruising speed and then die. Check engine light would come on at this point.
After a minute would start back up.
This would always happen about 10 minutes after initial start or right about when it got to operating temp.
My mechanic which has over 20 years experience with P-cars originally thought it was the crank sensor. Replaced it and reset the codes.
Picked up the car and went for a fairly spirited drive that evening redlining first three gears a few times. Car felt great with no problems whatsoever.
On the drive to work the next day same thing happened again! Rough idle, engine cuts out, check engine light comes on. Went back to shop and they're trying to figure it out.
The hourly rate for diagnosis is killing me!!!!!!!
Has this happened to anyone before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated......
#3
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Idle control valve?
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MAF?
2003 c2 6mt w/ 41k on the clock.
First the car would die at idle sitting at a light . After a minute it would start back up and go with no issues. This happened once a day for three days.
On the fourth day the RPM's at idle would start to fluctuate between 700 and 1300.
This would go on for about a minute and then power would start to cut in and out while in gear at cruising speed and then die. Check engine light would come on at this point.
After a minute would start back up.
This would always happen about 10 minutes after initial start or right about when it got to operating temp.
My mechanic which has over 20 years experience with P-cars originally thought it was the crank sensor. Replaced it and reset the codes.
Picked up the car and went for a fairly spirited drive that evening redlining first three gears a few times. Car felt great with no problems whatsoever.
On the drive to work the next day same thing happened again! Rough idle, engine cuts out, check engine light comes on. Went back to shop and they're trying to figure it out.
The hourly rate for diagnosis is killing me!!!!!!!
Has this happened to anyone before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated......
First the car would die at idle sitting at a light . After a minute it would start back up and go with no issues. This happened once a day for three days.
On the fourth day the RPM's at idle would start to fluctuate between 700 and 1300.
This would go on for about a minute and then power would start to cut in and out while in gear at cruising speed and then die. Check engine light would come on at this point.
After a minute would start back up.
This would always happen about 10 minutes after initial start or right about when it got to operating temp.
My mechanic which has over 20 years experience with P-cars originally thought it was the crank sensor. Replaced it and reset the codes.
Picked up the car and went for a fairly spirited drive that evening redlining first three gears a few times. Car felt great with no problems whatsoever.
On the drive to work the next day same thing happened again! Rough idle, engine cuts out, check engine light comes on. Went back to shop and they're trying to figure it out.
The hourly rate for diagnosis is killing me!!!!!!!
Has this happened to anyone before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated......
#5
Race Car
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had similar - not exact problem - long story short it was this rubber that was slightly off - had been sucked in by intake (see photo where I'm pointing w screw driver) - and thus it was getting too much air, giving readings about vario cam timing being off (very hard to really happen) and causing stall at low speed/idle but fine aboe 2k rpm. hope it helps. can reach it without engine drop altho that's the only way we found it. ie the part of the intake behind the plenum.
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Good post above.
Yuo might need to check the wire continuity to the crank sensor?
Only suggesting because the car ran great for a time then symptoms reaccured.
Best of luck,
Paul
Yuo might need to check the wire continuity to the crank sensor?
Only suggesting because the car ran great for a time then symptoms reaccured.
Best of luck,
Paul
#7
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also check your fuel, I'd say run the tank off , add some additive like techron
and fill her up at a reputable gas station that see decent amount of traffic (gas not sitting).
I had some idle problem once when I made a bad fillup at a not so great gas station.
and fill her up at a reputable gas station that see decent amount of traffic (gas not sitting).
I had some idle problem once when I made a bad fillup at a not so great gas station.
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#9
Instructor
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Just a suggestion here but as you have already changed the CPS and you are still having the same problem, have you checked for any horizontal play in the crankshaft? <just a thought>
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********Update******
Timing was consistently off with cam and cranks sensor error codes. Conensus is the IMS is about gone. Hopefully no engine damage is done but we obviously won't know until he opens it up. Luckily I bought a warranty for the engine when I got the car a year ago. New bearing from LN has been ordered. I will have to pay for the difference in price and shop supplies which is not that much. Fingers crossed on the condition of the motor.
Timing was consistently off with cam and cranks sensor error codes. Conensus is the IMS is about gone. Hopefully no engine damage is done but we obviously won't know until he opens it up. Luckily I bought a warranty for the engine when I got the car a year ago. New bearing from LN has been ordered. I will have to pay for the difference in price and shop supplies which is not that much. Fingers crossed on the condition of the motor.
#13
Race Car
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It sounds alot like what I said above. You'll be ok. Look at engine carefully re intake etc... B4 opening anything. I think you can see that sheath w/o paying 4 hrs for the drop.